CrashMaster
Member
I have 2 and once set up they are very reliable and very good.
No issues or problems = No posts.... ;-)
I have a question (actually, three:nevreness
.
Do you guys:
1) Run the power off your battery direct?
2) Run the Power via a BEC?
or
3) Use a seperate battery for your Gimbal?
I have asked AXC to send me the gimbal I ordered set up for 4S LiPo operation but I have read that Naza doesn't like the power drain that gimbal's have so I'd be interested in what others do.
.Do you guys:
1) Run the power off your battery direct?
2) Run the Power via a BEC?
or
3) Use a seperate battery for your Gimbal?
I have asked AXC to send me the gimbal I ordered set up for 4S LiPo operation but I have read that Naza doesn't like the power drain that gimbal's have so I'd be interested in what others do.
CrashMaster
Member
I use a 7.4v BEC power the Gimbal and 5.8ghz A/V hard wired to the main power loom. I also use a 5v BEC to power my GoPro Hero3.
If you carry an extra battery it is just extra weight and the power draw from the gimbal doesn't appear to impact on flight times. Mind I use an 8000mAh 14.8v.
If you carry an extra battery it is just extra weight and the power draw from the gimbal doesn't appear to impact on flight times. Mind I use an 8000mAh 14.8v.
CrashMaster
Member
The Gimbal is 7.4v but if it were 14.8v then yes you could plug directly to the main batteries. However, the BEC will modulate the power and keep it constant. bearing in mind that a fully charged 4s is actually 16.6+v and when almost discharged can be as low as 13v it would not maintain a constant 14.8v unless using a BEC. So the answer is yes I would still put it through a BEC.
Although the voltages are shown we all know they vary dependent on many differing factors like motors under load draw more current so reduce voltage and IMUs, controllers, AV link, Downlinks, iOSD etc all draw power so reducing the available voltages so using a BEC for anything is a good way of regulating that output and maintaining the performance of that hardware while safeguarding it against damage.
Although the voltages are shown we all know they vary dependent on many differing factors like motors under load draw more current so reduce voltage and IMUs, controllers, AV link, Downlinks, iOSD etc all draw power so reducing the available voltages so using a BEC for anything is a good way of regulating that output and maintaining the performance of that hardware while safeguarding it against damage.
Thanks CrashMaster, that aligns completely with what I thought. I have posted this same question to a number of forums and either got no response or the advice was to connect direct to the battery. However, for all the reasons you mention, I just felt that wasn't right.
Next challenge will be to find a suitable BEC - any suggestions?
Next challenge will be to find a suitable BEC - any suggestions?
CrashMaster
Member
I just got a BEC from Hobbyking -
7.4v for Gimbal and 5.8ghz AV TX http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store/uh_viewItem.asp?idProduct=31593
5v to power the GoPro http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store/uh_viewItem.asp?idProduct=29762
I hard soldered to pair to a plug and connect them both to the main wiring loom.
They are cheap and light and just do the job.
7.4v for Gimbal and 5.8ghz AV TX http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store/uh_viewItem.asp?idProduct=31593
5v to power the GoPro http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store/uh_viewItem.asp?idProduct=29762
I hard soldered to pair to a plug and connect them both to the main wiring loom.
They are cheap and light and just do the job.
CrashMaster
Member
If Rob said it is OK and he has altered the input voltage to match your Lipos then go for it.
I have received my new AeroXcraft Brushless gimbal and powered it up okay and it appears to work with my GoPro3. I can turn and tilt the F550 craft and the camera remains fixed, so all appears to be fine.
What I would now like to do is to control the Pitch of the camera using the LD knob on my Futaba 8FG. I understand that this corresponds to F2 out on the NAZA so I have connected the F2 to my Martinez board in accordance with instructions, taking care that the polarity of the plug is the correct way around at both ends. I should also add that the connection between my Futaba Rx and the NAZA is using the S-Bus connector.
Using my NAZA Assistant software, I have checked the Gimbal "on" button so I should be all set. Except nothing happens when I turn the LD knob on my Tx! I have set up the LD on channel 8, Aux4 of my Tx.
I have checked using the Futaba servo screen on my Tx that when I turn the LD knob the servo is working but the Naza Assistant X1 slider doesn't move, even when calibrating. Also, there is a Frequency drop down box that has 50Hz, 100, 200 and 400 Hz - could that be an issue (default is 50Hz)? But it doesn't work whichever frequency I select. I'm doing something fundamentally wrong here; all suggestions gratefully received.
What I would now like to do is to control the Pitch of the camera using the LD knob on my Futaba 8FG. I understand that this corresponds to F2 out on the NAZA so I have connected the F2 to my Martinez board in accordance with instructions, taking care that the polarity of the plug is the correct way around at both ends. I should also add that the connection between my Futaba Rx and the NAZA is using the S-Bus connector.
Using my NAZA Assistant software, I have checked the Gimbal "on" button so I should be all set. Except nothing happens when I turn the LD knob on my Tx! I have set up the LD on channel 8, Aux4 of my Tx.
I have checked using the Futaba servo screen on my Tx that when I turn the LD knob the servo is working but the Naza Assistant X1 slider doesn't move, even when calibrating. Also, there is a Frequency drop down box that has 50Hz, 100, 200 and 400 Hz - could that be an issue (default is 50Hz)? But it doesn't work whichever frequency I select. I'm doing something fundamentally wrong here; all suggestions gratefully received.
Can you please explain how you did that and what connections and switch/controller you use as that would be very helpful? Thanks:nevreness:
Thats what I'm doing except I'm choosing channel 8, Aux and LD. So to be clear, you have S Bus from your Rx to your Naza and and the pitch control from your Rx channel 7 conventional connection to your gimbal controler?
Update ->
Cracked it! When I connected the Martinez to the Rx, I had the Rx receiver plug upside down. Once I turned it round it worked perfectly. Many thanks for your help in telling me to connect it to the Rx and not the Naza.
Update ->
Cracked it! When I connected the Martinez to the Rx, I had the Rx receiver plug upside down. Once I turned it round it worked perfectly. Many thanks for your help in telling me to connect it to the Rx and not the Naza.
Last edited by a moderator:
Richlizard
Member
Could someone explain how to overcome the side lean problem? My gimbal leans around 5 degrees from the horizon and I am exhausted by the times I have changed the parameters in the software without success.
It is fine before flight, but once in the air, slowly leans to the left and stays there even after landing.
Thanks
It is fine before flight, but once in the air, slowly leans to the left and stays there even after landing.
Thanks
CrashMaster
Member
I did suffer that a little after a right turn but it levelled again within a couple of seconds... I also got bucking when the wind was from the front left but isolated that to the wind catching the wiring which in turn unbalanced the gimbal. In the end I tied the wires to the frame and never had a problem again.
You could try altering the balance a little by slackening the two bolts and sliding the camera cage away from the lean.
Just as a last thought. Undo the sensor on the top of the camera cage and swap the little spacers around a bit. Be careful not to loose any while doing so: they are tiny. Just that if one of your spacers is not sitting right or is a fractionally a different length the sensors would always try and level everything so if not completely level with the camera cage then the sensor will be level but not the cage.
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Attachments
Richlizard
Member
Hi CM and thanks for the reply.
Mine seems to happen in slow motion as it takes off, then stays there. I have had the bucking lots of times but as you say it settles down again... in my case to a 5 degree lean
The nice man at Aerox advised the sliding of the cage too, but it made no difference. Starts level, ends on the lean.
I did see your tied cable image earlier, but figured this wasn't the issue as they seem to be FPV cables rather than the Aerox cables. My lean happens whether I have my FPV cable plugged in or not. I don't know if it makes any difference, but when first levelling, the last bit (maybe 5 degrees) happens very slowly. It is now more evident as I have a Zenmuse on my other craft and it levels in a split second, almost magnetic speed. So I am just wondering if this slow levelling just doesn't get the chance when flying, although you would think by the time it lands on my bench it would have done it so probably best ignored!
Just going to attempt the sensor bit now. Presumably that is the small board sat on top?
Thanks again, will report back in a bit.
Mine seems to happen in slow motion as it takes off, then stays there. I have had the bucking lots of times but as you say it settles down again... in my case to a 5 degree lean
The nice man at Aerox advised the sliding of the cage too, but it made no difference. Starts level, ends on the lean.
I did see your tied cable image earlier, but figured this wasn't the issue as they seem to be FPV cables rather than the Aerox cables. My lean happens whether I have my FPV cable plugged in or not. I don't know if it makes any difference, but when first levelling, the last bit (maybe 5 degrees) happens very slowly. It is now more evident as I have a Zenmuse on my other craft and it levels in a split second, almost magnetic speed. So I am just wondering if this slow levelling just doesn't get the chance when flying, although you would think by the time it lands on my bench it would have done it so probably best ignored!
Just going to attempt the sensor bit now. Presumably that is the small board sat on top?
Thanks again, will report back in a bit.