Commercial Photo and Video-photography
- Thread starter Droider
- Start date
Droider
Drone Enthusiast
When I was waiting for my mount I just fitted my GoPro to the legs, but good idea. Is your new mount on the way? where you getting it from?
Droider
Drone Enthusiast
At the moment its a bit of everyone!, Owner, architect, builder, lead worker... everyone is a potential customer as they all want to show off there work. But my principal is the owner
Droider
Drone Enthusiast
Now now.. thats some shot.. is that around where you live coz that look a pretty cool place to live
I work for a landscaping co. www.valleywest.ca Shaun
Bartman
Welcome to MultiRotorForums.com!!
CopterCam
Member
Bart,
Nice composition,............ What are your camera settings ? Looks a bit soft to me and there's sensor or lense dirt ? (see the dark spots in the sky)
I feel a bit bad saying this but this is constructive criticism........
Sid
Emowillcox
Member
HI Bartman.. cool shots. Does your machine shoot your photos with the horizon level or did you have to do that in post?
I don’t see any dirt in the shot ;-)
Does look just a little soft.. wonder if your focus was off just a little? What camera are you using.. is it the rebel?
I don’t see any dirt in the shot ;-)
Does look just a little soft.. wonder if your focus was off just a little? What camera are you using.. is it the rebel?
Bartman
Welcome to MultiRotorForums.com!!
i see the spots you're talking about in that third photo so, yes, i probably have to adopt better lens cleaning habits. i don't mind the criticisms one bit, i'm not a formally trained photographer so i'm happy to learn any way i can.
@ emo, my full 18 mp pics look great but when i export/reduce them to 1000p wide with picassa they seem blurry. i don't know why. it's my T2i rebel with the 18-55 kit lens opened up to 18mm. maybe the fact that i'm using it at the end of it's range makes the pics a little screwy? maybe it's time i invest in something better than picassa for photo editing.
i was having video problems so i wasn't able to relax and take the shots i wanted. i had to just shoot when it looked like i might get a good shot and i was surprised i got any good ones at all. to compensate i let the camera take pics for a longer period (continuous mode) so i'd have more to choose from. i think i saved myself with that.
thanks for the feedback. i think i'm slowly getting to where i want things to be.
bart
@ emo, my full 18 mp pics look great but when i export/reduce them to 1000p wide with picassa they seem blurry. i don't know why. it's my T2i rebel with the 18-55 kit lens opened up to 18mm. maybe the fact that i'm using it at the end of it's range makes the pics a little screwy? maybe it's time i invest in something better than picassa for photo editing.
i was having video problems so i wasn't able to relax and take the shots i wanted. i had to just shoot when it looked like i might get a good shot and i was surprised i got any good ones at all. to compensate i let the camera take pics for a longer period (continuous mode) so i'd have more to choose from. i think i saved myself with that.
thanks for the feedback. i think i'm slowly getting to where i want things to be.
bart
Redhotpearl
Member
Lightroom3 Bart, it's awesome. Hard to say it's worth the money but all high quality programs are expensive. BTW shots look great.
Droider
Drone Enthusiast
Hay Bart you did it.. Brilliant. I was going to ask what solar, PV or Thermal but I see its PV. Great shots bet the owner is made up, really good promo for his company.
Its probably not on your lens but on your sensor.
Camera dust is a problem. Reece2 helped me out a couple of weeks ago by pointing me to this article
http://www.luminous-landscape.com/essays/sensor-cleaning.shtml
And these products
http://www.visibledust.com/
I had a real bad load of dust on my Nex5 sensor which happened when I took off on a dusty road. I know it was the dust from the road take off because the photos I took ten mins sooner when I took off on a nice grass field were fine.
I did not have time to get the Visible dust products so I whizzed down to my local camera shop and got a Dust Rocket
http://www.prophotoshow.net/2008/06/18/cool-product-of-the-week-rocket-air-clean-your-sensor/
I followed the instruction on the Sony Nex5 site and bingo, no more dust spots.
Anyone thinking of going down the Nex5 route should take extra care of the sensor as it is permeably exposed and the camera aint dust proof so its easy to get dust on the sensor from a dusty take off. I now carry some carpet tiles and make a 6ft x 6ft take off and landing pad.
As for soft ware I on a Mac so I have a big advantage over you PC boys
I am adding stuff to my Prefilight check list and there is now a section on camera checks. Ill post up the amended Preflight list when I add the stuff I thought of this week.
As for framing the shot with you FPV I think thats cheating, you should be able to close your eyes and visulise what your camera is seeing, eh RHP
Its probably not on your lens but on your sensor.
Camera dust is a problem. Reece2 helped me out a couple of weeks ago by pointing me to this article
http://www.luminous-landscape.com/essays/sensor-cleaning.shtml
And these products
http://www.visibledust.com/
I had a real bad load of dust on my Nex5 sensor which happened when I took off on a dusty road. I know it was the dust from the road take off because the photos I took ten mins sooner when I took off on a nice grass field were fine.
I did not have time to get the Visible dust products so I whizzed down to my local camera shop and got a Dust Rocket
http://www.prophotoshow.net/2008/06/18/cool-product-of-the-week-rocket-air-clean-your-sensor/
I followed the instruction on the Sony Nex5 site and bingo, no more dust spots.
Anyone thinking of going down the Nex5 route should take extra care of the sensor as it is permeably exposed and the camera aint dust proof so its easy to get dust on the sensor from a dusty take off. I now carry some carpet tiles and make a 6ft x 6ft take off and landing pad.
As for soft ware I on a Mac so I have a big advantage over you PC boys
I am adding stuff to my Prefilight check list and there is now a section on camera checks. Ill post up the amended Preflight list when I add the stuff I thought of this week.
As for framing the shot with you FPV I think thats cheating,
you should be able to close your eyes and visulise what your camera is seeing, eh RHP Attachments
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Droider
Drone Enthusiast
Bart you have invested all that money and time in your Hexa.. WHY use cheans???
I went out and bought a load of the Traxxes connectors RTRyder uses and changed the lot in about an hour.. They are bomb proof, and quality.. mind you can get chaxxes so watch out.. get the real deal and your sorted..
Dave
Bartman
Welcome to MultiRotorForums.com!!
There is no doubt, if you need heavy manipulation of the image, Lightroom 3 is amazing and worth the investment if Commercial stills is your business.
This image was a quick edit with Picasa....... a slight straighten and a push on the contrast.
i see you've got greens in your pic, we're till a month or so away from having the added effect of green in our settings. are you using a lens of any kind? is this pic only a quick picassa edit and nothing else?
i'm trying to hunt down a 10-22 lens and will also be trying a circular polarizing lens. anyone have any input on that plan of attack?
@dave, i'll try to track down the little rocket blaster at the local camera shop. i've been looking for a reason to pop my head in there and see what they have on the shelves.
thanks!
bart
Definitely sensor dust, not lens dust, on Droider's and Bartman's images. Any camera with a removable lens will be prone to this issue. Some cameras come with an ultrasonic self-cleaning capability but in my experience it's only marginally effective. Here's the rules:
For cleaning, always try a blower first - but NEVER use "canned air" (it can blow liquid chemicals onto the sensor surface). VisibleDust (among others) makes an illuminated magnifier that will enable you to examine the sensor surface. The Arctic Butterfly brush is also very useful. Be careful, however, of the expensive swabs and liquids sold for sensor cleaning: they can create more problems than they solve. Personally I use a high quality chamois leather cloth (designed for camera lenses and spectacles) wrapped around a small, square-ended wooden spatula (like an ice-lolly stick). Remember, you're not actually touching the sensor but a piece of glass in front of it so it's not as delicate as you might think.
Sensor dust will show more when you shoot with a smaller aperture. Dust that may not show up at all at f2.8 will be horribly visible at f/22.
Regarding resizing images, whenever you reduce an image in size you will need to sharpen it to restore the crispness. The greater the reduction, the greater the need to sharpen it subsequently. Every image editing program should have a sharpen command of some kind. The best tool is the confusingly-named "unsharp masking", which allows fine control over how much sharpening is applied. Judge it by eye: move the sliders until it "looks right".
Lightroom gets a lot of press, but I prefer DxO Optics Pro - a less-known but superbly powerful raw processor that has a too many advantages to list here.
- Remove the lens as few times as possible
- ALWAYS turn the power off before removing the lens - otherwise the electrostatic charge on the sensor will attract dust like a magnet
- Once the lens is removed, keep the open throat of the camera pointed downwards
- If not refitting a lens immediately, put a bodycap on the camera
- If operating in a really dusty environment, put the camera inside a sandwich bag and tape around the lens barrel
For cleaning, always try a blower first - but NEVER use "canned air" (it can blow liquid chemicals onto the sensor surface). VisibleDust (among others) makes an illuminated magnifier that will enable you to examine the sensor surface. The Arctic Butterfly brush is also very useful. Be careful, however, of the expensive swabs and liquids sold for sensor cleaning: they can create more problems than they solve. Personally I use a high quality chamois leather cloth (designed for camera lenses and spectacles) wrapped around a small, square-ended wooden spatula (like an ice-lolly stick). Remember, you're not actually touching the sensor but a piece of glass in front of it so it's not as delicate as you might think.
Sensor dust will show more when you shoot with a smaller aperture. Dust that may not show up at all at f2.8 will be horribly visible at f/22.
Regarding resizing images, whenever you reduce an image in size you will need to sharpen it to restore the crispness. The greater the reduction, the greater the need to sharpen it subsequently. Every image editing program should have a sharpen command of some kind. The best tool is the confusingly-named "unsharp masking", which allows fine control over how much sharpening is applied. Judge it by eye: move the sliders until it "looks right".
Lightroom gets a lot of press, but I prefer DxO Optics Pro - a less-known but superbly powerful raw processor that has a too many advantages to list here.
Last edited by a moderator: