Whats the best FPV set up?

dtw

dtw

KC1UAV
Yes, the amperage is what you want to look at on chargers. So if you're charging a 3.3amp or 3300mah battery that charges at 5C, then you'll need 16.5 amps from the charger, which this one does, and even if you're only able to charge some batteries at 3C/4C, it'll still be pretty quick.

$299 gets you the Naza v2 system - pretty much, it's the same price everywhere, so... You could get both at Amazon.. GetFPV.com are great people, though, too...

I buy most Tx/Rx video, etc. from RMRC, if RMRC is out or doesn't have an item, I get it from GetFPV. For batteries, there's no better place than HobbyKing, and/or cheap stuff. HobbyWireless has good video transmitters. I've purchased from rc711.com (sometimes the least expensive for newer stuff - don't expect support though), helidirect.com (really good, great support, but not the lowest prices), helipal.com (good service, nice people, not the cheapest), multirotorsuperstore.com, dronematters.com, massiverc.com - list goes on and on, but the first ones I shop at the most. eBay is where you'll get rooked, so... just be careful there.
 

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David1953

Member
Another great reply. Your reading my mind as to "ok what's next"' and reputable suppliers was next. At this stage I'd rather have some support and pay a few more dollars. No eBay for me. I'll follow your list of suppliers. This is really good info for a beginner. David
 

dtw

dtw

KC1UAV
My most recent project. This is a simple Emaxx frame (250 size) with 1258Mhz with 2.4Ghz FrSky TFR8SB. T-Motors with Rotorgeeks ESC, CC3D running Cleanflight firmware and MWOSD for RSSI and Battery voltage. My AUW is around 600gm - hovers around 1/2 throttle with 3S, but 4S batteries are coming soon.

Pardon the mess - been tweaking and flying in my garage!
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David1953

Member
Swell build. I see all the connectors, tools and bits and pieces of this and that.. I figure once I get off high center I'll get part way into my first build and figure out I need this-order it wait 10 days -get it, then find I need that, repeat. I believe you and others have suggested one not start with 250's. Re the elongated frame - the TBS are nice,but expensive. Are there any decent knockoffs in the 450-500 range that are kind of set up for FPV?
 

dtw

dtw

KC1UAV
Been thinking about this question for a bit. The nice thing about the TBS is it's something you can grow with. If you wanted to add new motors, extend the arms or get stiffer arms you can do that - you can add a gimbal if you want - all sorts of options. It has some very nice features that you just won't have with anything else.

Of course, it's more expensive. One thing is really true with multirotor stuff - you get what you pay for.

I think, if I had to do some things over again as a beginner, I would probably have gone for an H-quad like the RealFPV 400QX or Flip FPV 450 sized quad. Those are priced similarly, and they'll work with the DJI E300 power system and Naza. They might be more expensive to fix in a crash than the TBS.

That said, you could go the route I went with the Neewer Useful X-Mode Alien:
http://www.amazon.com/Neewer-Useful...=1425713540&sr=8-1&keywords=neewer+quadcopter

With this, you'd spend almost nothing on the frame, get the E300, get the Naza V2 and you'll need a PDB:
http://www.amazon.com/Neewer-MultiC...d_sim_t_1?ie=UTF8&refRID=1EAC8VDRN5WNHQGP62VT

It has plenty of room for a 3300mah 4S Turnigy battery, a GoPro if you want one, video, etc. It kind of looks like a TBS - just doesn't have a PCB like the TBS, so... There's some things to think about.
 

hjls3

hjls3

Member
David1953 said:
Swell build. I see all the connectors, tools and bits and pieces of this and that.. I figure once I get off high center I'll get part way into my first build and figure out I need this-order it wait 10 days -get it, then find I need that, repeat. I believe you and others have suggested one not start with 250's. Re the elongated frame - the TBS are nice,but expensive. Are there any decent knockoffs in the 450-500 range that are kind of set up for FPV?
Click to expand...
David the QAV stuff is awesome and worth looking at - I have a QAV400 and 500 with 540 arms - both those frames you can run as straight up FPV multis and if you choose, grow too putting gimbal on em as well.
 


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David1953

Member
I looked at the QAV 400 and the TBS 450 frames. They look like they are somewhat similar in design and perhaps quality. I want to have FPV and possibly gimbal/camera later. The Disc Pro looks pricey for that application after you add their gimbal, but QAV gimbal isn't cheap either! Can't find Flamewheel 450 frame(only) for a build or Taranis radio so going to have to wait. Initially going to use Flamewheel, fly FPV without real concern of crashes and then when competent switch to above higher priced frames.
In the interim, this quad could be a possibility Nano QX FPV RTF with SAFE® Technology.
Maybe use it to learn FPV?

 

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David1953

Member
Anyone here have an opinion or experience with this plug and play system? Thought I would start with 5.8 ghz before going to 1.2/1.3. Maybe by then they will have goggles receiving 1.2 ghz without the 5.8 patch from ground station. David
 

dtw

dtw

KC1UAV
I don't have any experience with plug and play systems. Regarding the gimbals... none are super cheap, but with gimbals you really get what you pay for. So if you can afford to buy a good one, do it. I've purchased cheap gimbals and had limited success with them.

If you're going to fly FPV, you don't need a gimbal - in fact you won't want one with a multirotor, unless you have an FPV camera "and" a gimbal/camera for aerial photography.
 

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David1953

Member
Thanks for your reply. After a "lot" of reading, including some "what I would do differently" posts I've decided to add a FPV system to my new 450 (starting on) build. It will use the 1.2 ghz frequency. The components aren't as plug and play as the 5.8. My question revolves around cable connections between the components. Schematics are handy, but the actual connection process usually isn't pictured, except from a distance. Some are 3 pin, some are 4 pin, some are jst. Some are molex, some are referred to as servo connectors. I understand that plugging into the camera, the vTx, etc one has to use the proper connector, but many of these have wire pigtails on the other end. Should those wire ends be soldered-shrink wrapped together? I don't have a crimping tool. Or do folks solder-shrink wrap another connector/ pigtail to the first set? If you custom build all these it looks like you'll have a jumble of connectors. By just soldering wires together it looks like it will be cleaner and lighter. I realized if you want to change components you will have to cut them off, but in real world RC is that a big deal? David
 

dtw

dtw

KC1UAV
Soldering connections is always lighter, but rather permanent. I use the 3-wire connectors/servo connectors for pretty much everything to do with video connections because they're light weight and not-so-permanent, but only for things that don't already have connectors. For splicing wires, always solder and wrap. Sometimes, I have different cameras or different VTX units that I want to be able to swap out, so planning for that, I'll integrate 3-wire connectors so I don't have to re-solder at some point in the future - especially where my different units have different connectors (like Fatshark cameras compared to board cameras or CCD cameras - it's nice to have them all configured with similar connectors, so if one breaks or I just want to try a different unit, I don't have to struggle with wiring all the time).

A new pair of crimpers isn't that much - if you have a local hobby store, they might be able to demonstrate or help you see how to make these connections well.

Laying out your own drone is half the fun - planning, figuring out what can be soldered and what you can make look neat, etc. is a big part of a larger learning process that just takes time. I think if you asked many folks, you'd get many answers about what is the "best" way, so...
 

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David1953

Member
Thanks dtw for your reply. I'm going to build the 450 & fly it before adding the FPV stuff. Some of the components are on back order anyway. I'm using a 4s battery. With your experience, and knowing a build may be borderline heavy, do recommend using two batteries? One for power and a smaller one(3s 12v) for running FPV and video(I bought a Möbius to start with). Or, use either bec or volt regulators to reduce 4s to 12v? Seems there a lot of conversation about getting FPV interference even with filters if going single battery route; and also, differences of opinion re: ubec vs volt reg. David
 

dtw

dtw

KC1UAV
I tried it for a bit - just wasn't happy with the extra weight. I think the more you fly, the more you realize that weight really has a big impact on flight time, and not just that but sometimes maneuverability and stability (if you get really heavy).

Adding an LC Filter that weighs less than 10g is pretty simple, and given that your VTX and camera don't use hardly any power, you'll find you don't need to recharge your FPV battery much, so honestly it's a waste of excess weight.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/like/261718899287?lpid=82&chn=ps
I would buy all 10 of them, if I hadn't already. This is why they're sold out at RMRC and GetFPV. However, another good list of places to buy from: http://www.multirotorsuperstore.com/lc-common-mode-power-filter.html

MultirotorSuperstore.com
MassiveRC.com
DroneMatters.com
RotorGeeks.com

These are all great places, IMHO, to buy things. I've purchased from them all with great success and David at RotorGeeks has helped me through a few issues and taken time to respond, so... Although I'm sure they would all help out.

Try the filtering route - try the battery route - which ever works best for you, run with it, I say...
 






dtw

dtw

KC1UAV
I think that would be fine - I mean, most 1.2Ghz system is going to be great. The only thing that I'll mention is that this receiver:

http://www.readymaderc.com/store/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=11_34_44&products_id=1015

Is a little better because it has a saw filter built-in. There is a noticeable difference, but unless you're out a mile and/or going through trees, etc. you probably won't notice much.

Note: Check the reviews on your setup - and on the individual pieces...
 

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