Aeronavics / Droidworx Ryan`s SkyJib V2 build blog...

Since the Herkules III has build in a lot of features to protect the fets from sparks and you can use additionally some jeti anti spark plugs I fail to see the need to use a emcotec switch and all the mess it will add to your build.
Boris, Andreas should place your diagrams on his website. If I had those diagrams last year my life would have been a lot easier...
 

I think the emcotec is worth a little bit of extra wiring. Saving most of the electronics from getting fried if they hit water is worth it to me. But yes those images really do explain a lot. Becuase Of the imgaes on the website I thought it was alot more complicated than it actually was.
 

BorisS

Drone Enthusiast
why actually not use two of the emctec switches. Wasn't it two parts to it the switch and a cot roll unit talking to the RX. Use one control unit feeding both swichtes. Than you can keep the two lipo wire setup from the Herks and don thane to bring them together and split them again !

Boris
 

Other than saving me from joining the two herk power cables together, would two switches achieve anything else? Using two just seems like excess money and components? When one switch can do the job.
 

Just had a talk to Andreas, he informed me I should be running two switches. For redundancy, Which is the reason there are two sets of cables coming out of the herk not 1 set of thick cables. So il order the second switch.
 
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Sorry for the lack of updates. Had a busy week editing the fishing show.
I made some progress and had a miss hap along the way. Plugged the emcotec rc remote switch unit in the wrong way. Which fired it :( So ordered another one just installed it. Im not going to be using the Gruapner Air Modul for Telemetry, Im waiting for another product to come out. Cant name names yet, but there should be info on it soon. Il have to install a bec to power the receiver for the mean time.
I set up the modem for wifi link, couldnt get it working with my android phone. Hopefully it will work better with my Iphone I just bought.
I post some pictures of the build in the morning.
 

I wired both the emcotec switches up to a single remote controlled Rcs switch with a splinter cable. Do you think this is a bad way to do it? Would two switches be a lot better/safer?
 

BorisS

Drone Enthusiast
hmm hard to say, But to tell the truth without having tested it. I don't think it would make a difference ! If you have to switched hook up to it and one fails your copter wouldn't shut down. If you have one hooked up and it fails the same situation. So two switches don't offer any redundancy. Just watch out you are not causing any loops with the wiring. Ask the emotec people support before if its okay to hook up one switch to to regulators or test it before in a test wiring. But i guess the switch gets the power from the RX so there shouldt be any problems !

Boris
 



xerofly

Member
Droidworx Skyjib Heavy Lift Frame....plattenberg 15-22 Motors...integrated shaft for props...13x4 Props...extended 600MM cable....6mm connectors...3axis cinestar with radian stbilization...iftrontech 5.8ghz tx and rx....
 

xerofly

Member

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xerofly

Member
Okay:

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1. Concerning the ESC connections from FC to Herks. You can leave the servo cables the way they are no air cutting etc. The Adapter board Servo plus to Micromatch/ribbon cable already take care to let through the connections that are need.
For example one could solder jumpers on the Adapter board but in your case leave it untouched !

2. Connectint the motors to the ECS you dont have to keep the arrangement that M1 has to be connected to ESC unit A on the herklues it doesnt matter. What is essential in the case of an V octo setup it that you let M1 M2 M5 and M6 run over one board and M3 M4 M7 M8 run over the other board.
If in any case one of the boards shuts down completely you at least have something like a quad in the air. And not a rotating disk that you can't control.

3. You don't have to fly with 2 lipos than only connect one power cable and isolate the other !

4. Ribbon cable and ESC servo cables best if you keep as short as possible.

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Redoing completely my setup, but i made the decision to mount them under the center plate to be close to the lipos, safe and mount the vibrations mounts just for them.

Adapters and than to the FC in this case WKM.

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Boris

Thanks a lot for visual explanation of Herkules 3 to motors...FC and LIPO....Once again Thanks
 

baja-king

Here for the ride :)
I placed the Herkules on rubber standoffs then used the aluminium standoffs to mount a carbon fiber center plate on top to mount the FC. Since the Herkules heatsink predrilled holes do not line up with any on the SJ V1.

The IMU should be mounted securely. Rubber standoffs will not do.

Redridinghood - what did you use on the Herk to insulate the motor wires - was it something like http://uk.rs-online.com/web/p/silicone-sealants/0283426/ ??

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Hi guys, its been a while. Sorry I've been so quiet on this build. But I was swamped with work.

So a lot has changed since my last update. The SkyJib is now a coaxial x8, not flat octo. It seemed much more appropriate for me after i did some research into them. I live in a very windy part of New Zealand, so i need as much stability as possible.

Main things that I've added or completed:

-Shorter coaxial booms
-Coaxial engine mounts
-Boom Nacelles (Rear four covered in Orange wing covering film)
-Shortened all the motor wires
-added LEDs to booms, Red=left booms, Green=Right booms(covered them in plasti dip)
-On/Off Switch for LEDs
-STROBON Strobes, 2x white, front, Red Left, Green Right.(Covered them in plasti dip)
-Custom carbon plates for electronics
-Changed GPS position
-Changed Emcotec switch position
-Mounted all the electronics

I have sorted all my issues with setting up YS-X6, the WIFI was a real mission to get set up properly.
I have maidended it, which went well (it flew; didn't have a flyaway; or flip and crash) But I did get some engine balance warnings on the YS-X6 ground control station.
So took it home, checked the propeller balance, a few were only slightly out of balance; so got them perfect. Then i checked the motor alignment, once again three were off by 1mm and one was off by 2mm.
Next day took it out and tried again, after a few minutes I got the same warnings. Got really frustrated by that, couldn't work out what it was. So took it home and took the props off to do some tests to see if I could trigger it.

Turns out it was the Graupner GR-32 receiver causing all the issues. From what i can see the rudder channel has a jitter every few seconds, its only slight but YS-X6 doesn't like it. The other channels get some jitter as well but not as much. From the small amount of information I've been able to find in english Graupner receivers are known to have a jitter in PPM mode but not in normal mode. I then checked i had the latest firmware on the receiver which was supposed to eliminate jitter on two of the channels(which was a known issue). I also noticed that on the TX in the servo menu I can see that only one channel is jittering by 1 point(which was the original rudder channel, so i swapped the rudder to a non jittering channel/ according to the TX). But none of the others show up as jittering, but on the YS-X6 GCS they all show up as having a slight jitter.

I have emailed Kopterworx about it as they use the Graupner MC-32 remote, but I haven't heard back from them yet. Im really hoping they do get back to me as they might know some things i can do to fix the issue. At this point i cant fly with the graupner, which is a pain because it is such a nice remote and cost a lot too.

If any one has any knowledge of Graupner remotes or knows of any one that might be able to help me please let me know.

Cheers Ryan

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Ive made some more progress ony my SkyJib.

I had a hell of a time trying to align to top and bottom motors, which i think caused some of my issue. Ive got them all pretty bang on now.
I checked the tracking of my props also. Most were way out, one of my graupner 14x8s were out 7mm. and some of my soar 14x4s were out by 5mm.
Now that thats all sorted its much happier.

I tested the Skyjib with my futaba t8fg and sbus to see if the graupner remote was the issue, it seems to work better with the futaba for some reason. When I wired the graupner back up i noticed it needs alot more trim to stop it drifting, i thought that was odd.

Thoughts so far of YS-X6:
-Horrible to set up.
-Having to use my computer to change gains is just silly, why couldnt they just let me use my remote.
-Fairly stable, even with 15" props(ive never seen a multi with WKM and 15s, so im unsure how stable it actually is)
-The white warning light(telling you to land) is just crap, as soon as a gust of wind makes it wobble or you fly anything other than a straight line. It comes on. Ive learnt just to ignore it now.

So far ive tested APC 14x4.7 slow flys, Graupner 14x8, Xoar 14x4, Xoar 15x5.
The APCs have alot of lift similar to the 15x5s.
Best combos of props so far would be the 14x4 soars with the 14x8 graupners on the bottom or the 15x5 xoar top and 14x8 graupner bottom.
I found I can run high gains and sway comp with the apcs. The graupners are odd, i have to lower the gians alot to get it to stop oscillating. So i don't think il run the graupners by them selves.

Throttle to hover:
APC: 50
Graupner: 52
Xoar 14": 56
Xoar 15": 50
Xoar 14+graupner: 51
xoar 15+graupner: 47
 

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