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I believe the finest balancer is this, in case you weren't already aware. Available lots of other places in case you're looking to consolidate orders. For charger, lots of people like iCharger. I have a Traxxas EZ-Peak Plus 6A that works perfectly well for me. You can add additional balance...

what about GH4+metabones+70-200/2.8IS :) (don't worry, I'll only be flying with 12mm prime)

you are right, the gimbal I have on the way is quite happy with 4S, so I would set the BEC around the 16V range, then use a smaller pololu 600mA regulator for vtx and fpv pilot camera if any, and maybe LED's.

Hi Davey, It just so happens that 3DR are experiencing some growing pains right now so ordering from them has become a challenge. However! There are some nice Pixhawk options which might work even better for you. For example, since RTH is important to you, then you want the best possible GPS...

thanks!! One more question- you mentioned more than 12V for the gimbal, then adding another regulator for vtx. Why would the gimbal/controller need >12V?

Hi @anaka. I am building a QuadFrame hex so it has been great to look through your build! Are you powering your gimbal and vtx using your main battery and a 12V BEC (as opposed to dedicated 3S for gimbal/vtx)? If so, which BEC and how is it working for you?

I'm aware this is a lively debate amongst hobbyists. The issue is mostly temp (you need a solid 7-800F, and the right tip for the joint depending on the application). Lead was not added to solder to assist in better joints, and certainly not for conductivity. It is there to prevent tin whiskers...

I develop technology products and want to minimize their environmental impact. Also I have curious little kids so I want to minimize toxic dust and other things that would be dangerous to them.

Motors (KDE3520XF-400) and ESC’s (KDEXF-UAS55) are on the way. One thing to keep in mind for others looking at a similar build is the KDE compatibility note regarding Pixhawk: http://www.kdedirect.com/blogs/news/18220995-xf-uas-esc-and-flight-controller-compatibility-list But it looks to me as...

Did I mention we have 4 little kids we're homeschooling too? :D BTW I saw the dude using the "big copper washer" PDB method - that's right up my alley...

yep for sure! Just happens that the most important components aren't here yet since I had to space out the expenses (PDB, ESC's, Motors). I am flying a test rig (250mm quad) in the meantime. Also have a Pixhawk rover to get used to the Ardupilot code, MAVLink, available software tools, etc. So...

you've got that right. And I'm lead free too, so this is all the more crucial.

I'm sure. Coming from the microelectronics world I'm wondering more about soldering 10ga wire on a PDB and counting on that solder joint alone to keep $xxxx in the air. Seems like a PDB with some kind of hard-mounted compression connectors bolted on (heck, maybe something PowerPole friendly)...

Yessir! This one. I had to personally experience the nightmare over the last week before I could justify the expense :)

Hi all, I am assuming it is not advisable to use camera quick release plates (such as Manfrotto 577) on aerial gimbals. Is that correct? The idea I had was to standardize between glidecam, tripod head, and gimbal, but that would add a mounting 'point of failure' and potentially affect balance...

makes sense. I'm thinking it will be near impossible to have everything on hand before starting the build, so at some point I'll just have to set about doing it. Sidenote: I am using 45A Anderson Powerpoles and have a Tricrimp tool on the way, again as cheap insurance for batt connections. Just...

ah - OK, so you're simply using the attopilot 90A unmodified in the place of the standard Pixhawk power module?

Do you/they advocate modifying the 90A vs. simply getting the 180A simply because the 90A-modded-for-150A-range should be more accurate? I recall somewhere on diydrones the designer of the attopilot questioning this practice but I don't recall his reasoning.

Yeah - I see now from @Mactadpole 's build thread that he uses that one (I found it here), along with the FrSky voltage monitor. Cheap insurance.

OK, I will check the PDB in your build thread. Yeah, I was thinking of keeping the Attopilot on just one of the two, then putting a FrSky sensor on the other. It just so happens that I have a couple of the per-cell voltage sensor (this guy as opposed to the current sensor) so I will just plug...