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(thinking about this more) The tube clamp-friendly mount for the InfinityMR is an additional $200 so I will need to determine if that is worth it, or if I could fabricate some simple alternative.

yeah - would you modify a Tarot one or make your own with CF tubes?

OK, that makes good sense; I will wait. I have been thinking of the frame disassembly; that is one nice thing about having the "tubes" a la Tarot frames. I wonder what would be a simple way to have some sort of adapter between the frame and gimbal mount to avoid having to disassemble the frame...

@Mactadpole I have an InfinityMR preordered. Do you think it is reasonable to drill mounting holes into the frame bottom plate for the standoffs, or to make an adapter of some sort to hang it lower? My concern with drilling holes arbitrarily would be throwing off CG/balance (I'm not working in a...

Cool - yeah I might as well start with 16" APC to see where that gets me (with 3520). Flight time should be pretty decent.

Yes, everything else including the traces on the board look just fine. Now to identify that component :) I have that same camera on a little guy, works great!

sounds like fun!

It will be fun to see how you get on. Are you doing stills, video, or both?

nice! simpler than IR, that's for sure. what do you use for Vtx?

thank you that is helpful! I will give it a try.

Would you guys give me an overview of the current understanding of the regulations? It seems like there are multiple approaches: * Commercial (delivery, survey, agriculture, imaging) * Nonprofit (Conservation, research, some imaging applications such as observation) * Public service...

one of the coldest! MN, although it gets hot here in the Summer. Yeah I always try both 15 and 16. 16 looks great on 3520 400kv, pretty much the same only with more flight time. No harm in trying it with some APC's. *seems* to my untrained eyes like 3520 is the only way to go with this rig. I...

that's interesting - so for APC or Xoar beechwood, the preset PConst should be correct, but for T-motor cf it should be overridden to a custom prop with a PConst of 0.9 or so? It just seems like even with 14" prop, ecalc is saying the 3510 is overworking just a bit. And I want to avoid...

How so? Here is what I get with 3510 475kv: and changing nothing else I get this with 3520 400v, far lower temp suggesting better efficiency, no? Am I missing something?

wow. yeah, that is crazy. I just received some batts from getfpv on Tuesday, I wonder why this law did not affect that order? Is your rig purpose-built for 4S? based on what you know of this build, does 6S seem correct to you? (build list on first page is pretty close if you want to check)

tried to get the list in the first post updated to reflect the current state of things.

yeah, that seems good. but MAN oh MAN those things are expensive! I know it's another controversial subject, but do you agree with Patrick (KDE) that Tattu are worth it?

Yeah. At this point I am thinking KDE 3520 400kv, 15" prop, 6S based on our estimates for gimbal, camera, FPV, and research equipment. What do you think? When I plug it into ecalc it looks OK, and even if we radically reduce the weight it simply increases flight time (in case we are way off on...

Yeah. I still don't really understand how the non-t-style props remain attached. Even my little 250 quad is tricky getting the lock nuts just right on the props. The more I think about the wood, the more I think it's a pretty cool option. I want to be sure of the rig before sending it off with...

craziness!! what is the config for that one (I know you said KDE 3510 475 kv earlier), and for the one you are planning? What is the ultimate goal? For this build I think I have to go 3520 400kv in order to safely haul gimbal and camera (GH4 or similar experimental equipment). I definitely...