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They are not spinning when armed, that is why I gave a tiny bit of throttle to make sure they would, then that they would stop when disarmed. I had turned it off on the mini quad, but I appreciate it on the tri and think it is useful on these big ones as well, even with the Pixhawk confirmation...

just my inexperience, that was the way I was able to affect the endpoints in the SERVO screen. Where are the endpoints affected, can that be changed without affecting other models in memory? I'd definitely rather have somewhere more precise to strictly define 1100-1900 vs. weight and offset...

Sounds nice! I own a 5Dm2 as well, great camera. I have done mostly video with it. Sending a GH4 into the air eventually so we shall see how that goes. What are your flight times like? I am testing 2x 6S 10Ah Multistars to see where that gets me. Obviously it's a balance between the added...

No, arm and disarm behaved as expected. Throttle at 0, yaw right armed, yaw left disarmed. So I could arm, give it a teeny bit of throttle to make sure the motors would spin, then down to 0 and disarm to make sure the motors would stop. This isn't a perfect test of course, but it seems...

just a few detents on the throttle stick (same as a few clicks of trim, essentially)

how is this one working, and what have you been using it for? Will you be going through the CAA process as well in order to do commercial work?

OK I tried it. I've got the Taranis locked down to 1100-1900us range on throttle, redid RC calibration, and tried arming. The motors do not spin upon arming, however I was able to add a few clicks of throttle just to get the motors to spin, then disarm to confirm they stopped spinning. I think I...

I see the motors you're trying to use are also 980kv, so I recommend SunnySky X2212 KV980 II from BuddyRC. $20 apiece right now, they are working great on my kids' super smooth, consistent wooden tricopter. Keep in mind they come with bare wire, so if you really want to use bullet connectors...

I would reiterate SunnySky, and only from a reputable source. I am personally running SunnySky X2204S 2300KV on a Blackout Mini H with 5" prop and X2212 KV980 II with 9" prop on a wooden tricopter. Both are nice and smooth, great value for the price. Be sure to order only from a reputable...

Sounds good! Any other details about your build? Kit, frame, DIY, motor/prop/ESC combo, flight controller? Cheers!

You are right, it is an unnecessary formality due to the opto. I will talk with him if my simple test does not yield the results I expect it to.

Yeah.. in retrospect I could have triggered failsafe differently via the laptop, but it was at an angle against the ground so I had to make the call right then. I was extremely careful, but then again these are big props. I am trying again today with the tx reconfigured to 1100-1900, and RC...

the more I read, the more I think this would be a nonissue if I did just override the min/max values on the Taranis to be 1100-1900. Then RC calibration and ESC calibration would get the proper values. I believe based on my studies that ESC calibration on truly opto-isolated ESC's actually has...

I think the KDE ESC's are good; what is lacking is the APM documentation. I can't imagine there aren't others running this combination, but maybe they just know what to tweak. It's such a simple thing, the PWM range from the radio and how it is ultimately delivered to the ESC's, but it's...

Alright, so one more chunk of GPS mast down. Probably about time to switch that one out finally, it's had its day :) So - wow - altogether a good night in that a flight occurred at a nice big school field nearby. @Mactadpole you will notice I used your water jug weight balancing technique...

Perfect - thanks much. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Let's hope, fellas. I've got a new set of props (of course, just my style, only as many as I need with no spares), APC 16" since the LHS didn't have 15". I'll be fiddling with the CG and will try to find a more level launch site for a test hover. Shawn, did you reuse some holes for your clever...

the classic Manfrotto quick release with the drop-in connection would be a tight fit to get the camera in there, I think. I like the slide-in video style (Manfrotto 577) and have thought about using those as well. As you say, this is not a "precise" connection, but it can be if you get it...

I know this isn't technically "anti-vibration tape" but I happened to have a lot of dual-lock velcro for general attachment of things. So on our tricopter build I tested out using it as vibration isolation on a Pixhawk FC (GPS happens to be M8N). Each side attaches with a layer of foam, and the...

a bit too much, but you can test (+) and (-) around the board to ensure there is continuity where there should be, and no shorts, by using a multimeter or continuity tester. Just make sure when you solder that you clean the tip each time (with the metal sponge thing), tin the tip, then heat the...