XAircraft SuperX

Motopreserve

Drone Enthusiast
The IO is the BEC - 5.8V. As Kloner said, the manual is explicit, input onto B is 3s to 6s

I just thought I'd be delivering solid power with the UBEC. Also with the mention of the hot output I thought this might actually help.

I've used them successfully before but going to the RX first. I saw it mentioned in the manual, Using it here was force of habit.
 



kloner

Aerial DP
if the compass is near the batteries would that give me this kinda look? there kinda big batteries, 10 amp 6s.....
 




kloner

Aerial DP
yep, gh3...this was that flight... think this is around 26lbs, 20 amp hours, 6 u7's...


 
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Motopreserve

Drone Enthusiast
Kloner,
What do you use to mount the FC?

I've been wondering the same. I just have some Velcro right now because I wasn't sure I was ready for "final" location - but I'd love to know if people are using some type of dampener (even slight like double sided tape).
 
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RTRyder

Merlin of Multirotors
I have mine stuck to an ABS plastic raft that fits the standard 45mm hole spacing most frames have, that way I can just remove 4 bolts and out it comes without disturbing the actual mounting of the IMU to the platform it sits on. I find double sided servo tape works quite well for the purpose, I use it for both Naza and Super X mounting as well as a lot of other things on multis. It holds strong enough to keep just about anything attached in normal flight, yet tears easy enough so the things I do attach with it don't get destroyed should there be an unintended landing event.

In the case of a TBS Discovery frame you can fit everything between the decks if you don't mind hanging the battery underneath...



I'll take some more detailed pics of the internals when I tear it down to swap the arms over to carbon fiber, that will be soon after the current batch of parts finishes printing.

Ken
 

Dhardjono

Member
I've been wondering the same. I just have some Velcro right now because I wasn't sure I was ready for "final" location - but I'd love to know if people are using some type of dampener (even slight like double sided tape).

I use double side tape that come with the fc 9you mean the superx) ?
 

Dhardjono

Member
I have mine stuck to an ABS plastic raft that fits the standard 45mm hole spacing most frames have, that way I can just remove 4 bolts and out it comes without disturbing the actual mounting of the IMU to the platform it sits on. I find double sided servo tape works quite well for the purpose, I use it for both Naza and Super X mounting as well as a lot of other things on multis. It holds strong enough to keep just about anything attached in normal flight, yet tears easy enough so the things I do attach with it don't get destroyed should there be an unintended landing event.

In the case of a TBS Discovery frame you can fit everything between the decks if you don't mind hanging the battery underneath...





I'll take some more detailed pics of the internals when I tear it down to swap the arms over to carbon fiber, that will be soon after the current batch of parts finishes printing.

Ken

Ken how is she flying that's a TBS ? look like it i have a qav 400 coming and want to put superx on it.
 

RTRyder

Merlin of Multirotors
Ken how is she flying that's a TBS ? look like it i have a qav 400 coming and want to put superx on it.

It is, or was a standard TBS Discovery, about the only things remaining from the basic kit/original build is the frame plates, everything else is custom made. It flys much better than it did the first time I tried a Super X on it. The latest version of firmware and setting the model type to Xcope get it past most of the bad things it did on the old firmware. It's still not perfect but very useable, I would prefer to have a little more granular tuning capability as I can't quite dial it in as nicely as I could with a Naza or Multiwii.

I had a QAV back when they were first released, the frame is much more of a conventional layout than a Discovery so the Super X should work fine on one setup as a regular quad.

Ken
 

fltundra

Member
I have mine stuck to an ABS plastic raft that fits the standard 45mm hole spacing most frames have, that way I can just remove 4 bolts and out it comes without disturbing the actual mounting of the IMU to the platform it sits on. I find double sided servo tape works quite well for the purpose, I use it for both Naza and Super X mounting as well as a lot of other things on multis. It holds strong enough to keep just about anything attached in normal flight, yet tears easy enough so the things I do attach with it don't get destroyed should there be an unintended landing event.

In the case of a TBS Discovery frame you can fit everything between the decks if you don't mind hanging the battery underneath...



I'll take some more detailed pics of the internals when I tear it down to swap the arms over to carbon fiber, that will be soon after the current batch of parts finishes printing.

Ken

Ken,
Have you tryed the gps mounted directly to the top plate without the mast?
 

cabo_wabo

Member
I've found that hook & loop 'Velcro' has a noticeable lateral shift -3M makes an industrial product called 'Dual Lock' that is the same material for both sides, sort of mushrooms vs hooks that has no wobble or shift at all ! Amazing stuff !

http://www.3m.com/product/information/Dual-Lock-Reclosable-Fastener.html

You can find it at Amazons or eBay in reasonable quantities :)

I've been wondering the same. I just have some Velcro right now because I wasn't sure I was ready for "final" location - but I'd love to know if people are using some type of dampener (even slight like double sided tape).
 

Motopreserve

Drone Enthusiast
Ken,
Have you tryed the gps mounted directly to the top plate without the mast?

I have mine directly on the deck now. I think the proximity to the battery (or something) may be preventing decent sat lock. I get a few, but not enough for it to be happy.

Ken,

do you think the Xcode setting would be worth trying for a frame like the TBS, but symmetrical? I have the cinetank - weight definitely more front to back than a center plate quad. But the motors are symmetrically spaced from the FC. I have been only tuning so far using the standard x-quad aircraft setting.
 

skquad

Member
Ken,
Have you tryed the gps mounted directly to the top plate without the mast?

Interestingly I moved my gps puck off the mast to the rail mount that comes with it, hanging off the back of my 450 and I seem to get gps lock much quicker. The autopilot unit is now stuck to the side of the IO instead of attached to the mast.

I do however have to declinate the puck by about 10-15 degrees to the left to get the craft to fly straight.

Sent from my GT-I9505 using Tapatalk
 

RTRyder

Merlin of Multirotors
Ken,
Have you tryed the gps mounted directly to the top plate without the mast?

Yes, I have. In my case it makes no difference, seems to work just as well either way but I do mount the battery down under the lower frame plate and don't run the RX signals through the upper plate so there isn't a lot of interference for it to pickup. Interestingly I thought having the ESCs mounted inboard like I do now would create problems but so far everything seems to be working normally on the two Discovery I currently have flying that way.


I have mine directly on the deck now. I think the proximity to the battery (or something) may be preventing decent sat lock. I get a few, but not enough for it to be happy.

Ken,

do you think the Xcode setting would be worth trying for a frame like the TBS, but symmetrical? I have the cinetank - weight definitely more front to back than a center plate quad. But the motors are symmetrically spaced from the FC. I have been only tuning so far using the standard x-quad aircraft setting.

If it's flying OK the way it is leave it alone. You might be better off shifting components around to get the CoG as close to the actual center of the frame or more accurately the center of thrust between all the motors as possible, one of the bigger reasons why I have the Discovery battery underneath, that way I can adjust forward/backward as needed plus I can run as big a battery as I want or can fit. You can also use different gains roll vs. pitch to compensate if the frame is setup so the motor spacing is longer than it is wider. If you look at the top down picture of the Discovery you can see the motor spacing is completely out of whack in relation to the frame itself. I just got a shipment of carbon fiber tubing so I may cut a set that spaces the motors in alignment front to back just to see what kind of difference it makes to the flight controller and how the craft flys.

There's always something to experiment with when you keep one particular frame design around long enough :)

Ken
 

kloner

Aerial DP
I use that clear 3m vhb and it is on a clean plate.... the motor rpm is really low,,,, 17" props

20140208193829-bce9cca5-la.jpg


It's a red killer.....

20140208194212-ba3bd4fc-la.jpg
 

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