Tarot T810 build log

jhardway

Member
Denis I would start with the ESC, so what I have done in the past is take the motor wires and hook them to the motor ESC next to the one in question, take the one in question and wire the motor to the esc you took the motor from. See if the problem follows the ESC, in a lot of cases I believe this will happen, if it does just replace the ESC.

when it comes to motors there is not much to them.

Also if you mounted you motors with the mount screws that came with the motor, buyer beware, I know of many situation of people who mounted the motors with the supplied mounting screws, however the screws are long and what happens if you do not keep a good eye on them they will go right up into the stator and touch, then when you give it power you sort out the motor.

I know 4 people who, on first connection with the battery, have fried all the motors at once.
 

Also if you mounted you motors with the mount screws that came with the motor, buyer beware, I know of many situation of people who mounted the motors with the supplied mounting screws, however the screws are long and what happens if you do not keep a good eye on them they will go right up into the stator and touch, then when you give it power you sort out the motor.

I know 4 people who, on first connection with the battery, have fried all the motors at once.

Jack, thanks a lot for useful comments.

1. Yes, I've shortened one motor in this fashion. Therefore, I bought a bunch of shorter M3 bolts (6 mm instead of original 8) and mounted motors by those shorter ones.

2. Except of the maiden flight, I was always using some extra weight attached from the bottom, usually between 0.6 and 1.5 kg (1.5-4 lbs). I hope that after moving batteries down, my problems will disappear.

3. Regarding the batteries. Let's see, if Turnigy will be bad, i'll probably switch to gens ace
 


This is a good idea. it is always good to know how much juice you're putting back in the lipo. Also, like Jack said it sometimes helps to fly with a 'dummy weight'. also helps before you throw an expensive gimbal on there.

The main reason for getting the iOSD mk2 is that is will provide blackbox type datalogging. That said, I prefer SuperX built-in data logging feature 100x's better.

Yes, I'm always using some dummy weight which imitates camera or camera+gimbal.
Let's see about iOSD mk2.. I'll try first with mini version. My original budget for copter is exceeded twice already. (And I'm sure, that it is nowhere close to the limit :) )
 



jhardway

Member
Denis

I am a fan on the battery on the bottom for a few reason but if you put it on the top keeping the weight close to the frame it does on make a big difference however with that said I have found it the past if you put the batteries on the top and have your compass close, the compass magnetic deviation can very and it will sometimes change the copters course from fight to fight, example you may do a flight and when you are straight stick forward and it is fine, then next flight it will fly up to 15 degrees to the right in my case.

Its a fairly simple fix you have to off set the compass by rotating it to match the deviation difference. When I moved the batteries down on both my copters that problem went away.

I still feel some of your balance problems are in the legs, one being the legs are very long, and the skids may be to sort, if you figure out how long the legs will need be with the gimbal mounted, it may be worth cutting them down if there is some excess, this helps with copter cg's on the ground and also will shed a little weight, or you can make you skids a little longer and that should increase the stability. Another by be you copters is heavier to the front, or back if that is the case then move your skids accordingly to center them under the weight not the frame.

good luck Jack
 

Jhardway, thanks. Idea to cut off extra length from legs sounds very reasonable. I've ordered Arris Zhaoyun 3d gimbal. When it arrives, I can make adjustments
 

Yep, received rails, battery holder and gimbal, going to assemble all together.

Question: How to get copter balanced in terms of positioning of gimbal and batteries on the rails underneath the body? Should I just use momentum rule m1*l1=m2*l2, where m1 and m2 are weight of gimbal+camera and batteries (1250 and 1800 g correspondingly) and l1 and l2 are distances from gimbal and battery mount to the center.
Or should i hang the MR by some strings and balance it?
 


hm.. connected the gimbal (Arris Zhaoyun 3-axis Pro). It behaves in a strange way. When I pan or tilt, it it moves sometimes with jerky movements, sometimes not. Moreover, sometimes it drifts itself around pan axis (when transmitter is on). When I roll the MR body, it stays leveled without sound.
But the most confusing thing: gimbal motors and power wires are quite warm and battery discharges quickly, apparently rather high currents are running through them.

Should I do some basic adjustment or calibration or whatever?

Parameters, P I D
Roll - not controlled by Tx
Pitch 26 0.2 20
Yaw 30 0.2 40

Camera+gimbal are balanced in a way. At least, camera returns to a leveled position from any deviation
 

Motopreserve

Drone Enthusiast
I don't know that gimbal - but I believe there may be threads specific to it. But one thing for sure - if the camera "returns" then it is not balanced. The camera/gimbal should be adjusted so that the camera stays in any position you place it. This is with no power running to it.

I'd also suggest tuning the gimbal without any Rx input. That can sometimes mess with it if it's not right.
 

I don't know that gimbal - but I believe there may be threads specific to it. But one thing for sure - if the camera "returns" then it is not balanced. The camera/gimbal should be adjusted so that the camera stays in any position you place it. This is with no power running to it.

I'd also suggest tuning the gimbal without any Rx input. That can sometimes mess with it if it's not right.

Thanks. Balanced it, despite it was not straightforward. Sony Nex 6 has a rotating knob (for changing of shooting modes). This knob makes vertical dimension of the camera bigger compared to Nex 5 and 7. Therefore proper positioning of the camera is almost impossible. I had to add additional weight outside of the gimbal cage.

It seems to work more or less OK without connection to receiver. But troubles arises when receiver is connected. I'll make a separate post in the beginner's area
 

Motopreserve

Drone Enthusiast
I've had that issue with the Rx causing issues. Mostly when I turned off power to Rx, but the gimbal was still on (separate battery). I guess gimbal was looking for signal but not receiving it.

Good luck!
 


AzViper

Active Member
hm.. connected the gimbal (Arris Zhaoyun 3-axis Pro). It behaves in a strange way. When I pan or tilt, it it moves sometimes with jerky movements, sometimes not. Moreover, sometimes it drifts itself around pan axis (when transmitter is on). When I roll the MR body, it stays leveled without sound.
But the most confusing thing: gimbal motors and power wires are quite warm and battery discharges quickly, apparently rather high currents are running through them.

Should I do some basic adjustment or calibration or whatever?

Parameters, P I D
Roll - not controlled by Tx
Pitch 26 0.2 20
Yaw 30 0.2 40

Camera+gimbal are balanced in a way. At least, camera returns to a leveled position from any deviation

I had an Arris with the AM 32 bit controller and could never get any of the parameters set correctly to have a stable working gimbal. I sold the damn gimbal. I know the price of the gimbal is attractive but sometimes you just have to bite the bullet and spend the bucks. I really like the Gremsy Gimbals.

https://www.gremsy.com/product/gremsy-gstabi-h3-ecofly
 

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