Panasonic GH2 general and hack info base

MombasaFlash

Heli's & Tele's bloke
OK, I feel like a complete idiot now...

Sorry to pour more rain on the situation but if they are (luckily) shooting 720p then you are unlucky if you want to use the HDMI video out to a converter for monitoring because your GH2 will automatically revert to a 1080i50 setting as soon as you connect the mini-HDMI cable - regardless of whether the other end of the cable is connected to anything. Every single camera out there has something really bloody stupid about it and this the GH2's - along with the analogue a/v video output that doesn't function during recording.

You have no choice but to use a separate small camera for monitoring, if you wish to shoot in 720, or accept the 1080i50 setting.

The whole argument about through the lens monitoring versus separate FPV camera has been played out in great length, either here or elsewhere. I have ended up doing what I always hated which is a separate camera sitting right next to the GH2, pointing in the same direction. It has to be lined up before the flight to ensure that it gives the same framing as the GH2's screen. Many people talk about pointing the monitoring camera AT the main camera's screen. FORGET THAT. It is a fiddly and difficult setup to install and you end up with an appalling picture on the ground.

The major disadvantage with a separate monitor camera is that you have no idea what is happening with the main camera. It may have turned off, with a flat battery, or gone to sleep, because you forgot to disable that function, or it may have locked up with some SD card data rate problem .... whatever, you will have no idea until the flight is over.

As for the gentWIRE, it is only required for photos. If you are shooting video then you simply push the little red tit to start recording before taking off. You will at least have positive confirmation that you are indeed recording.

As you now have only TWO days before your shoot I would suggest that you do NOT get involved with GH2 hacks. The stock image is still better than any other camera of the same price bracket (and of course more expensive cameras too).

An example why: My primary concern with any GH2 hack was reliability above all else. If using the camera involved small five second recordings after each take, to prevent the card from being subsequently unreadable, or the flights had to be restricted in length to avoid 'spanning' issues, or any number of special peculiarities or odd behaviour, I was not interested. There are enough distractions on a shoot with all the other things to check without having a temperamental camera.

So I installed Sanity5. It is easy-peasy and works every time without any 'special' behaviour.

Or so I thought. If you are using the ultra-expensive, super-duper 64GB/95mb/s SD card (which is recommended for all these high-data rate hacks) the camera will lock up when set to record at 1080 with a ridiculous error message claiming the SD card is too slow - if you are using a Panasonic lens ! I mean, Jesus! How twisted and weird can it get?

One more twist to the whole tale. If you record at 1080p24 you will get outstanding image resolution (but a slow frame rate) and the HDMI output can be used for monitoring, without the camera changing the record setting.

So anyway, if you merrily kit yourself out with one of Tabb's panic-FedEx'd HDMI cables, an HDMI converter and a hacked GH2 with a big fat expensive SD, you will turn up for the shoot, set the camera to 720p connect it all up and 10 seconds into the flight .... the camera will freeze because it will have reverted to 1080 and you are using what you thought is the fastest SD card in the world and you will be looking stupid - in front of your client.

The hacked GH2 WILL however record 1080 onto a slower, Class 10 SD. Go figure.

Personally, I use the Sanity5 hack, a separate monitoring camera and record at 720p50, in case I want to slow anything down later, onto a 64GB/95mb/s Sandisk EP. This setup was used locally for the Parc Astérix and the Château du Vivier shoots and the Norfolk Southern shoot in Atlanta.

On the subject of 1080 versus 720, I defy anyone to see, for example, the CX760 image at 1080 as better than the GH2 at 720. Even up-rezzed from 720 to 1080 the GH2 image is better.
 

Thanks for that input. I did just realize I screws up on my thinking about the 1080 vs 720 output. In my head I was thinking 720 was recorded when set to 1080, not the other way around. As for the trigger, it has saved me many times just to let the camera operator start recording in the air without landing, I we forgot to pres record or if it stops recording for some reason, but I will survive without it. It is a total bummer about the 1080i issue. I did read a review of the GH3 that this IS fixed on release, but I am sure we will find other gripes.
 

snurre

Member
I.. must...ahh... control.. aaahhh... my pre-order-finger-ticks :livid: argh..

 
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Michael64

Member
When I have the HDMI plugged in the monitor screeen does not show the info thats on the camera LCD screen. One reason I got an converter was to see if the camera was functioning as normal and to see if it locked up due to write speed of card error, but I do not get any of that on the monitor. Is there something I am missing to get this I looked but that does not mean I overlooked it, if there is please let know. Iam using Apocypse 444 soft and really like it alot it has been very solid so far.

Michael64
 

MombasaFlash

Heli's & Tele's bloke
When I have the HDMI plugged in the monitor screeen does not show the info thats on the camera LCD screen...

Depends on the camera. Some of them direct screen info to the video outs and some don't and with some of them it is selectable. The GH2 sends a minimal amount (although it is really small and virtually illegible) but even this disappears during record. In fact this 'disappearing' is the only visual confirmation on the external monitor that the GH2 is recording.

As I recall, the CX7XX series doesn't send any screen info. Not even a red record light.

By rights, the HDMI should be left clean and without all that stuff, or at least have the option, and instead direct it to the a/v output. But, as we have all discovered, the manufacturers have been particularly dumb with this.

Generally speaking, the more you paid for your camera the more info you can direct to an external monitor.
 

Skyhook

Member
Good info, thanks Mombasa.
Regarding 24 / 25 and being able to use the HDMI output to monitor from the ground, could it be an option to record at 24p, then use 5DtoRGB to convert to 25fps.
I'm pretty sure this is possible, as I have converted some 24p footage to 25p before without issue.
This obviously doesn't help much if you want to shoot 50p...
 

MombasaFlash

Heli's & Tele's bloke
... Regarding 24 / 25 and being able to use the HDMI output ...

Ask Yeehaanow about 24p recording. He prefers it over the other formats and says that it actually delivers the best image of all the options. If you are considering recording at 24p and want to end up with 25p, why not just record at 1080i50? It is really just 25p in disguise and plopping it onto a 25p timeline will make it 25p. Interlaced video was a requirement for cathode ray TV tubes. As the world steadily switches over to progressive scanning there is less and less demand for the interlaced video signal - other than for some television applications that need to provide for older hardware.

So eventually the interlaced video option will be dropped from virtually all cameras, particularly in the consumer market. For now though there is really no problem to record 50 fps interlaced and have the NLE program combine odd and even scans to make 25fps progressive video.

One further small point. With content destined for internet distribution there really is no detectable difference in image quality between video shot at 1080i50 on a GH2 and video shot at 720p50 and later exported to 1080p25. I can barely tell the difference even with full size exports, let alone after they have been compressed for the internet. The sole reason I generally record at 720p50 with the GH2 is just in case I want to slow something down. I virtually never do but at least I always have the option sitting there. Of course, the penalty is putting up with a separate monitor camera.

As a timely example of one of the problems with a separate monitor camera, I was shooting last weekend at the Parc Astérix in France and discovered at one point that the monitor camera kept being pulled upwards by the power/video cable after a 90° down tilt. This was due to the rubber grommets on the simple swivelling mount getting hard in the cold weather and not providing sufficient friction to hold the camera in one place. On the ground we were totally unaware of this and kept filming away blissfully unaware that the GH2 was pointing downwards in relation to the monitor camera and chopping off everyone's heads. One only discovers this sort of thing by regularly checking footage throughout the day. Never leave it until the session is over otherwise the whole day might have been wasted.
 

Skyhook

Member
Anything I can do to not have to use a separate camera, I will do.
Though I will definitely want to shoot some things at 50p, so I guess extra camera is the only way.

What monitor camera are you using Mombasa? And what output does it have / how are you transmitting it to monitor?

I have bought one of the Freefly HD/SD converters, though it hasn't arrived yet. Assuming it only takes HDMI as an input, so if a suitable monitor camera doesn't have HDMI output, it will be a wasted purchase and I'll have to get some other one.

Damn you, panasonic!

Another thing that bugs me is the focal distance markings on the micro 4/3 lenses (sorry if this has already been covered in another thread) - I'm aware of how the crop factor works, and by using a full frame lens on a GH2 the distance will double, but since there is no way a m43 lens could be used on a full frame camera, I wonder what the point is in marking the lens as such.

 

MombasaFlash

Heli's & Tele's bloke
You are missing the point somewhat. The separate monitor camera will output composite video and will therefore connect directly to your video downlink transmitter. The HDMI converter is for converting the HDMI signal of the main camera (GH2 in this instance) to composite, or analogue, or a/v - whatever you wish to call it - in order to be compatible with the transmitter.

Any small FPV micro camera will do. The most convenient are those supplied in a little square plastic case with a small mounting bracket. It should be mounted as close to the main camera possible with its lens at the same height as the centre of the main camera lens. The very small difference of field of view due to it being to one side is not sufficient to upset framing. The FPV camera will almost certainly be a 4:3 picture and will therefore show more at the top and bottom of frame, even though the whole image will have been stretched by your 16:9 monitor screen.

I was as adamant as you about not using a separate camera and just as pissed with Panasonic (and Sony) but I have to say that in practice it has made little difference, other than the sort of issue I mentioned above, the risk of which I was fully aware beforehand.
 

Aviator

Member
I am considering hacking my GH2? Most of the time I shoot in 1080 at 25. Has anyone had success in using a hack without issue? it seems there are hundreds to choose from... I have the 95mbs 64gb card and just looking for a hack I can rely on to work everytime.. Any advice will be appreciated :)
 

MombasaFlash

Heli's & Tele's bloke
I am considering hacking my GH2? ...

Keep asking the question because my experience is very limited. With all the talk about GH2 hacks I too was convinced I HAD to do it but, like you, was completely baffled by the different options. My primary concern was that the camera remain 100% reliable without any weird hack-induced foibles or behaviour.

On the strength of Yeehaanow's suggestion I went for Sanity 5. He said it is a mild 'hack' but that any hack is better than none and furthermore, once you start venturing into higher bit-rate territory, not only does the risk of weird stuff increase the detectible difference in image quality becomes increasingly subtle (read: less and less visible improvement).

I tend to shoot at 720p50, simply for the option to slow it down if it ever becomes either necessary or appealing and, with the 64GB/95mbs, it has never failed. HOWEVER, 1080 settings can be 'iffy'. Particularly with the 64GB/95mbs SDXC card. The camera often freezes with an error message saying the card is not fast enough ???

But, it generally works with a slower card! Again - ???

One other reason I like 720 is that I prefer the colour. It may sound strange but switching to 1080 changes the colour - it gets a bit colder.

That is all I can say about it. I did not try any of the other hacks so, keep asking.
 

Warmupper

Member
Try this hack: Driftwood Cluster v7 'Apocalypse Now' - 6 GOP Nebula '444 Soft' matrix

No issues with this, no crashing, never stopped recording. I'm using a Sandisk 95mb 64 GB card.
For me the best hack. High bitrate in 24p. Beautiful organic soft filmlook. I didn't like the sharp
video look with the GH2 panny lenses. With this hack it looks more filmish, like the 5D.
No gradient banding issues with blue sky, like it often appears with standard Firmware.
We prefer shooting in 24p because of the best qualtity out of cam.
In our workflow, we modify 24 to 25p in Premiere Pro (interpret footage) without quality loss.
Output in Premiere Pro for clients is the Avid codec DNxHD 120 25p 1080p

Some examples:

https://vimeo.com/53226303
password: FTV

https://vimeo.com/50519588
password: Stahl

GH2 Hack:
http://www.personal-view.com/talks/...intravenus-cbrandindriftwood-an-softcinema/p1

Regards
Heiko
 

yeehaanow

Member
25p is a whole different animal. What works on the ground will often fail in the air due to the nature of aerial shots from an 'unstable' platform.

I like the sound of what Heiko says to interpret 24p into 25p. The 24p hacks are the highest quality and most stable.

One of the keys to stability is to only record short takes, and keep the file sizes under 4 GB.

Once you hack, you'll never go back!
 


Aviator

Member
Try this hack: Driftwood Cluster v7 'Apocalypse Now' - 6 GOP Nebula '444 Soft' matrix

No issues with this, no crashing, never stopped recording. I'm using a Sandisk 95mb 64 GB card.
For me the best hack. High bitrate in 24p. Beautiful organic soft filmlook. I didn't like the sharp
video look with the GH2 panny lenses. With this hack it looks more filmish, like the 5D.
No gradient banding issues with blue sky, like it often appears with standard Firmware.
We prefer shooting in 24p because of the best qualtity out of cam.
In our workflow, we modify 24 to 25p in Premiere Pro (interpret footage) without quality loss.
Output in Premiere Pro for clients is the Avid codec DNxHD 120 25p 1080p

Some examples:

https://vimeo.com/53226303
password: FTV

https://vimeo.com/50519588
password: Stahl

GH2 Hack:
http://www.personal-view.com/talks/...intravenus-cbrandindriftwood-an-softcinema/p1

Regards
Heiko

At the risk of sounding stupid? Is there a link to actually download the firmware and install it on the camera? I have worked with CHDK before but never Panasonic stuff, and the link to the forum at the end of your post just looks confusing to me :shame:
 



DMEN

Member
Hey folks. Great information from all. Thank you. Would like a hack recommendation for my following setup:

DJI S800
Z15 Gimbal
GH2 with G20 lens

Also, some menu settings would be greatly appreciated :)

Thanks
 



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