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if the yellow warning thing is showing next to the device, you don't have it installed right and it'll wont work. Have you tried different ports on the pc for the usb connection? like physically move the wire from one plug to another. When you botch a driver install and start installing over...

if you dont remember the .rar file then ya, you skipped over that part. if you did do it, in your pc, look at start, devices and printers and with naza plugged in it'll show as being so there. That's the pc seeing the imu plugged in and the driver part installed correctly

just make sure there right way up, on the side of the rx there is a "S" in the plastic that is the white, orange or yellow wire. stands for signal, brown should be opposite. on mine, the orange rx has orange wire up, on my 6100's it is brown wire up. if the plugs wont go in with proper...

are all the sattelites dsmx?

yea, you can't use velcro on a flight controller. aside from the fc having to be completely flat cause it self levels off of it, even an air bubble in the tape throws em off. velcro had to of been a hell of a ride. CI must have some cool views from up above

how heavy is the craft and how many cells do you use? 3s,4s?

those knock offs are everywhere. now the v.2 stuff is out, pulled the trigger on a 450 frame, gotta see what $30 gets me.

i wonder if the esc's came uncalibrated when they had that reverse polarity moment.might try recalibrating each one in the throttle port of the rx first then retry flight controllers as a general rule are pretty tough. one time i blasted a unregulated rc system made for 2s with 12s......... it...

have you programed failsafe yet? is it spektrum? That thing leaned left and never waivered, failsafe pops up up level. I've had mine get kinda locked into stuff like this fpv but always just thought the wind was pushing it. not being near it is hard to tell,,,,,,,, wonder if it's a gain thing...

the motor output or esc input leeds forward. says m1-m6 on the naza. sounds like you understood, just want to make sure cause the inputs are on the other end and make it go bananas if wrong.

i never used a switch either, looked yesterday when was flying after reading that and my heli don't move at all plugging it in weird, if you gave up on dji, crack that thing open and look inside. maybe it got hot/cold and let the sensor loose inside the case. there is a bunch of foam and a...

it's so easy to loose orientation like that with these things, does it have lights? if not, get some led tape and mark a front or rear or both

bearings, bent shafts, bent bells....... you just grab a new set of motors and walla. when naza is actualy broken past repair it won't boot, doesn't get off the ground, etc. if the sensor was knocked loose, it's a matter of reattaching it inside. a set of suppos runs $60 for all four

man, i've had my battery fall out over asphault, 30 feet up. bought two new motors and flew bitchen. naza wasn't affected, the rest of the parts were fine. few months later i flew it into low voltage cuttoff over a river, aimed for a dock but just missed and the whole thing went in, hero2...

airplane mode is fine. i use the "gear" channel and set the end points in the radio while in the dji assistant calibration screen to make one way manual, other way atti in your radios system setup menus, it should have something called device that you can enable, inh or set any channel to gyro...

They got mad power in manual compared to atti. turns off the governor or whatever it is that ensures it not flip over in atti through out a pack. on my logger it looks like it gives it another 10 amps with it off, that's like 25% more power but alot more aerobatic in nature. it's exactly like a...

looks awesome from what i see of it........ wanna see it work too

flex all the props and make sure one isn't cracked. youd think its something your overlooking. all my friends new to this always have a prop wrong or 1 motor spinning backwards and don't see it. was why was thinking a vid might help somebody catch the problem if it's physical. if it's a...

yes it does, tri with motors top and bottom, has two modes hexa-rotor-rev-Y6 and hexa-rotor y6 for single arm forward or the two arms forward

first thing that comes to mind is it getting hit or touched while in the closet making a connector not as solid as when was built. a bearing could have had a little damage, if it sat and had any moisture available, it can rust the non chrome part of the ball where damage woulda been and make it...