R&D Hex for Survey/Imaging/Conservation



fltundra

Member
I develop technology products and want to minimize their environmental impact. Also I have curious little kids so I want to minimize toxic dust and other things that would be dangerous to them.
The lead free solder is garbage. Hope you don't find out the hard way.:)
 


crayfellow

Member
The lead free solder is garbage. Hope you don't find out the hard way.:)
I'm aware this is a lively debate amongst hobbyists. The issue is mostly temp (you need a solid 7-800F, and the right tip for the joint depending on the application). Lead was not added to solder to assist in better joints, and certainly not for conductivity. It is there to prevent tin whiskers (little strands of solder that short between adjacent joints) on PCB's. Which reminds me there is a brewery in St. Paul owned by some former EE's called Tin Whiskers Brewing!

I'm beginning to think the actual build will have to occur in a new thread :)
 

crayfellow

Member
seems like we're ready for action, no? I'm making a new thread for the build but would like to hang onto this one for reference, thanks for all your contributions, guys.
 
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crayfellow

Member
For what you get I don't think its too bad of an option. You could always get the Vulcan gear rail system to put on the copter that it would clamp to - http://www.rc-drones.com/Vulcan-12mm-Rail-Mount-System-with-Rails_p_658.html
Been toying with the idea of doing this myself and getting the Vulcan quick release plate.

Not sure about quick release, that sounds really cool too, but what do you think of this along with the InfinityMR tube clamp mount? If QuadFrame made a rails kit I'd already have grabbed it :)

@Motopreserve @Mactadpole As for quick releases you guys mentioned Vulcan and others, as well as DIY. These work in place of the tube clamp mount on the gimbal, and mount rigidly to the quick release plate, correct? Trying to collect all the options so I can determine if I need the InfinityMR tube mount, Jakub is sending the gimbal tomorrow.
 

Motopreserve

Drone Enthusiast
The Vulcan QR is a CF plate that has 4 clamps on it. The dampener plate of the gimbal is secured to the CF plate, and then the QR clamps to the rail system. The Vulcan is the 155mm standard, not the narrower system on some tarot frames.
 

crayfellow

Member
Yup I've seen the Vulcan.

I think the rails for T810 and T960 are indeed 155mm, so that seemed like an inexpensive option to have rails with some flexibility in mounting to the frame.

I suppose if I get the InfinityMR plate and clamps I could just switch out the tube clamps if necessary.
 

crayfellow

Member
Make my own. Not tough. Aluminum angle bar with holes drilled and add rubber grommets to the holes. Bolt it to the bottom plate and put some CF tubes in there. The QR mechanisms can be pricey. I got 4 from China for about $60 shipped for a project.
I found some CF tube here. Would you say just get some grommets from the hardware store, or do you have a source you like?
 

Motopreserve

Drone Enthusiast
I got rubber grommets at the hardware store. If they don't have the size you need - Amazon typically has any size.

I get my CF from him too. Great prices and pretty quick on the domestic shipping.

Also, have him cut it if you're not comfortable with CF dust/splinters. I was lucky enough to be gifted an old home central vac unit, so I rigged up a half-assed suction area for drilling and cutting.
 

crayfellow

Member
cool! Yeah, for the money I will have him cut, might as well. We could do it outside but we've already got plenty to do!
 


crayfellow

Member
Worth it. CF can be nasty business!
what do you think about the length? I only really need 200mm max for the gimbal, and the batts are going on top. Seems like that should give plenty of adjustment for CoG, no? The Tarot rails are 400mm, I am guessing this is for folks who want a gimbal out in front and batts out back.
 

Motopreserve

Drone Enthusiast
If it's just the gimbal - just leave a bit on each side of where they'll connect to the grommets. You're going to want to gimbal centered for sure. The tarot length is for adding battery trays, moving gimbal out front and other nonsense you won't be dealing with :)
 

Mactadpole

Member
I have been looking into how I could do the 155mm wide rail system on this frame and I don't know that it is very feasible. The slide slots for the folding arms are right at this width and are in the way basically. You would need to mount the hanger for the rail system very near the center of the copter front to back to make it work. Meaning you would only have about a 45mm space between the front and rear hanger and I don't think that is enough space to hang a gimbal in between. Maybe? At the front or rear of the plates there is not 155mm to work with.

If you find a good solution please share. I just looked at it again for a bit and nothing pops in my head. It would be nice if Quadframe came up with a rail system for us. I absolutely love this frame but it seems like they are just missing a few selling points that make them really popular, like CF material and a rail system.
 

Motopreserve

Drone Enthusiast
The folding quad has 4 aluminum hex spacers that come down from the bottom plate. Does the hex not have these?

Also, if you're making your own rail and QR, you are not married to 155mm.
 
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Mactadpole

Member
The folding quad has 4 aluminum hex spacers that come down from the bottom plate. Does the hex not have these?

Also, if you're making your own rail and QR, you are not married to 155mm.

It does. But I think attaching to those with aluminum angle is going to have a good bit of flex?

If he is wanting to use the rail attachment setup that comes with the InfinityMR I think he is married to the 155mm.
 

crayfellow

Member
Yep, these guys, at 100mm square. So, right, why not just screw the aluminum with the grommets for 12mm CF to these and space it however we want? Then you can still end up with 155mm between the rails, since the clamps aren't screwed directly to the frame.

BTW the InfinityMR can mount anywhere from 102-157mm between the rails, and at a length from 101-131mm, but I was planning on spacing the rails at 155mm simply to be as conventional as possible. The standoffs at 100mm plus a simple aluminum+grommet retainer for 12mm seems to get there.

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Mactadpole

Member
I would add another two standoff's in the middle (between the outer one's) to ensure it is all stiff enough. I actually think this might work.
 

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