My brushless gimbal result

RTRyder

Merlin of Multirotors
Thats the problem and i think here the misunderstanding happens. I interpret the instructions as five faces of the cube excluding the base which would be 6 faces. Dont really know which one is write feeling wise it tells me that only five faces excluding the base/bottom. As reason since over 90 degrees on tilt for example the gimabls act out anyways. !

Boris

Boris, it is all 6 positions, I looked up the manufacturers recommended calibration procedure because I couldn't quite figure out what the manual meant by the other 5 faces. If you don't have a perfectly square surface plate or instrumentation to precisely measure position in all orientations then it's better to just use the base calibration and leave it at that, you're not making it any more accurate if the measurements aren't exact when doing the calibration.

Ken
 

BorisS

Drone Enthusiast
Ill push this question one more time in the rcgroups thread not that i dont believe your research !!! I just want to hear it from one of the guys that know or wrote the code! I guess when you mean manufacturer you mean the producer of the IMU/accelerometers ? The question stays though how alexmos interpreted it and which steps he considered as necessary. It funny though that this question was answered a couple times in the Rcgroups thread and none of them who should know were willing to jump in !

I thought the same thing when i did the advanced calibration that in no means I am able to get all the surfaces right !

Boris
 

Icke84

Member
maybe someone can help me:

i have some strange things going on. i build a 3 axis gimbal with 2 boards.

on the pitch/roll board i used the 1.2b firmware and everything was setup good.
on the yaw board i flashed the new v2 firmware because of the z axis function.

now i want to use the v2 firmware on the pitch/roll board to use the silent mode, because it's a hand gimbal.
i reseted everything to default. made the advanced calibration and tried to change the PID setting. but nothing helps, the camera is turning like it doesn't want to stabilise. i tried low pid and power setting and also higher ones... nothing does a good result.
so i though going back and flashed the 1.3 firmware. same behavior. i was like: what the f**k, why isn't it working anymore. then i tried the 1.2b and it worked with some standart settings. i tried v2 again, crazy movemts, shaking, everyhing. go back to 1.2b - perfect.

any ideas?
 

DennyR

Active Member
The most important thing about the calib. is to do the top face last.

Here is something that I find essential for getting a perfect balance with the larger motors. it is a mandrel to slip on instead of the bell. the magnetic cogging on these big motors is too powerful to get a good balance without this. View attachment 11994
I would not be surprised to see this being offered by Iflight as I don't think I can compete on price.
 

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SMP

Member
Agree... surprised that the Guys who wrote the code didnt seem to offer up an answer...

Denny, have been finding the same problem... nearly impossible to balance accurately..
 

GotHeliRC

http://gothelirc.com
maybe someone can help me:

i have some strange things going on. i build a 3 axis gimbal with 2 boards.

on the pitch/roll board i used the 1.2b firmware and everything was setup good.
on the yaw board i flashed the new v2 firmware because of the z axis function.

now i want to use the v2 firmware on the pitch/roll board to use the silent mode, because it's a hand gimbal.
i reseted everything to default. made the advanced calibration and tried to change the PID setting. but nothing helps, the camera is turning like it doesn't want to stabilise. i tried low pid and power setting and also higher ones... nothing does a good result.
so i though going back and flashed the 1.3 firmware. same behavior. i was like: what the f**k, why isn't it working anymore. then i tried the 1.2b and it worked with some standart settings. i tried v2 again, crazy movemts, shaking, everyhing. go back to 1.2b - perfect.

any ideas?


Icke84,

Try this... load 1.3b or 2.0 .. Make sure you take a screen shot of your setting from 1.2.

Try this: Go in GUI and click on "Default" make sure everything is cleared. Then start over by calibrating accel, then put in your value all over again.

If still not working, try the same as the above, but after you calibrate, don't click on write (meaning don't put in any value either.... just power down first, then power it back up, then put in your value.


Make sure your I2C error is not showing anything erratic... if it's, go to Advance tab, bottom right check the box that say I2C pullups enable (this only available on 2.0)
 

GotHeliRC

http://gothelirc.com
Also, for those who use the Sony Nex5 and your camera lens have the slop like I did.... YES I confirmed this WILL give you vibration when you fly forward or give any control movement on your copter. So here's how I fix mine and it made a world of different on my video yesterday.

Maybe I will try the 16mm pancake... not even sure if the SS from the 18-55 is doing anything.
 

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Can't remembered exactly, but with 18-55mm..

18-20-16 Power 200 (if you're using silence mode)
18-20-13 Power 120 (if you're using silence mode)

Hi guys,

Can someone maybe help me by explaining where I fill in these P-I-D values as it does not make complete sense to me. I've noticed that I can't go any higher than 0.5 and if I read the above numbers in the order P-I-D then the 20 value must be "I" which is not possible. I keep getting oscillations, I've been through a range of settings but still no luck.

any chance someone can give me their starting settings for the v2 firmware in silent mode?

Cheers,

Andre
 

Icke84

Member
Hi guys,

Can someone maybe help me by explaining where I fill in these P-I-D values as it does not make complete sense to me. I've noticed that I can't go any higher than 0.5 and if I read the above numbers in the order P-I-D then the 20 value must be "I" which is not possible. I keep getting oscillations, I've been through a range of settings but still no luck.

any chance someone can give me their starting settings for the v2 firmware in silent mode?

Cheers,

Andre

hi andre,

it isn't your fault :) he just not wrote the 0. before the 20. so the i vaue is always 0.something. in this case 0.20 als the oher values are correct.
so try it again with 0.20 and you will see it will work.

regards
Marcus
 


RC Flying

A Drone Mind
Also, for those who use the Sony Nex5 and your camera lens have the slop like I did.... YES I confirmed this WILL give you vibration when you fly forward or give any control movement on your copter. So here's how I fix mine and it made a world of different on my video yesterday.

Maybe I will try the 16mm pancake... not even sure if the SS from the 18-55 is doing anything.
I've been using a pancake lens. Everything is nice so long as you don't want to pitch the camera down too far (not very far) or move your machine forwards. I noticed that the gimbal goes a bit crazy if I fly forwards at a reasonable speed. I'm not sure why this is, if it because it's hitting something or if the power fluctuations caused by sending more power to the motors affects the gimbal? Do you, I mean everyone here, use a separate battery for your gimbal or just the flight pack? Also do you think it will help having a capacitor or two to smooth out the power to the gimbal/gimbal controller?
 

badbill

Member
quote_icon.png
Originally Posted by GotHeliRC

Can't remembered exactly, but with 18-55mm..

18-20-16 Power 200 (if you're using silence mode)
18-20-13 Power 120 (if you're using silence mode)

What is "silence mode" ?

Bill Davenport
AMA 28141
 

RTRyder

Merlin of Multirotors
quote_icon.png
Originally Posted by GotHeliRC

Can't remembered exactly, but with 18-55mm..

18-20-16 Power 200 (if you're using silence mode)
18-20-13 Power 120 (if you're using silence mode)

What is "silence mode" ?

Bill Davenport
AMA 28141

With the 2.0 version of the Alexmos firmware you can set the PWM to "high" to eliminate the high pitched squeal from the motors, it basically increases the frequency from 8kHz to 16K, beyond what most of us can hear...

Ken
 

GotHeliRC

http://gothelirc.com
I've been using a pancake lens. Everything is nice so long as you don't want to pitch the camera down too far (not very far) or move your machine forwards. I noticed that the gimbal goes a bit crazy if I fly forwards at a reasonable speed. I'm not sure why this is, if it because it's hitting something or if the power fluctuations caused by sending more power to the motors affects the gimbal? Do you, I mean everyone here, use a separate battery for your gimbal or just the flight pack? Also do you think it will help having a capacitor or two to smooth out the power to the gimbal/gimbal controller?

If it work horizontal and when you pitch down it doesn't or vibrate, normally is due to the camera not being balance up and down direction. You have to balance it in all direction, not just forward and backward, this is where you adjust the screw on the motor and the hub on the right to raise the camera up or down.

Yes, a reliable power is needed, if the voltage drop more then 1 volt, then your setting need to be changed. Not good to hook it straight to your flight pack.
 



Kilby

Active Member
We got around to doing some two person tests finally. My wife has been operating the camera for all our still shots for a minute now, but this was her first attempt at video. This gimbal works great for it!

We were getting some unwanted yawing due to flying in GPS mode (little bit of wind pushing us around that day), but we can sort that out. The pitch and roll is working great!

 
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dez

Pilot
ViaCopter VectorDD from GoHeliRC.

Just letting everyone know we now carry the ViaCopter VectorDD gimbal for GoPro.

http://gothelirc.com/shopdisplayproducts.asp?id=221&cat=ViaCopter+Gimbal+System


Hi all. I took the leap of faith to order ViaCopter VectorDD from GoHeliRC.

It came quickly. All parts accounted for except the servo leads for the motors but its ok I scavenged them from parts and it was an easy solder. I downloaded and installed the software with help of a Youtube how to, and also assembled based on another how to. Tuning parameters I got from this forum and I tweaked it a bit afterward. I installed on my quad and I have to say that the hoizontal is way better than the PhtoHigher RSGS. I'm still on the fence about the pitch but its not bad. Photohigher pitch control is superb.

Some times on a pan the horizon goes out as in the RSGS however I have not flown it that much yet.

I'm impressed overall and for half the price of my other systems I think I am looking at better stabilization. At least for the GoPro.
 

daniel

Member
i just order my camera mount from gothelirc.......im exited...

quick question....

can i connect the tilt channel to the tilt output on the Wookong so i can tilt down from the DX8 knob??

what wires i have to connect? just signal and negative??

thanks for your help

daniel
 


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