Is anyone using a T2i with the 10-22 lens?

[Bartman]

Hi All,
I'm interested in the 10-22 lens but would like to see some pics from it before dropping the $$$. Anyone have any please?
Thanks,
Bart

 

[Droider]

Hi Bart. I know it may be a daft question but are you going to fly with it? I have found that 16 / 20mm is just about the right focal length for my requirements. For lightness it may be better to get a fix focal length. The Canon fanatics in my local photo shop swear by the Canon EF 20mm f/2.8 . They recon it cannot be beaten for the money.

 

[Bartman]

Dave,
the 10-22 is a wider angle lens than the lens i'm using now which is the lens it came with. i'll look into the lens you're talking about. the kit lens is 18-55mm.

 

[Droider]

Do you find that 18 is not wide enough?

 

[Emowillcox]

Hey Bartman.. I started out about 7 years ago with the 10-22 on my canon rebel and that is a great lens for real estate. I got great color and it works well in tight places yet you can zoom in. I found for shooting houses that often times the front yard is not that big and if you stand in the street you need a wide angle lens to shoot. You will also find this lens is great for being up close to your subject and capturing alot of information. Be warned if you get it and start to shoot at 10mm to watch and keep the camera straight because at this focal length it is very easy to distort the shot. With a little practice you can capture some great shots. I am now using a 5d MK II so I could get a full sensor camera and shoot mostly with a 14mm lens which is wider then the 10-22. I don’t fly with it.. this camera is only for my ground shots. IF someone was going to buy a new rebel I would tell them to buy just the body and save the money on that 18-55 and spend it on a lens you can use. 18 does not really get wide enough and 55 doesn’t really zoom in enough so your kind of stuck with a lens you probably will not end up using much after you start shooting. Depending on what you want to shoot I think the 10-22 is a great lens. I sometimes use this lens and my rebel for aerial shots on bigger projects.

 

[Bartman]

thanks for the replies dave and emo.
most of the time with the 18-55 i've got it at 18 then i fly in or out to frame the shot. i've got four or five solar installations i have to photograph so the 10-22 will probably help but i'm also looking to get a slight fisheye in the process and I thought the 10-22 might do that but now i'm guessing maybe not.
i'm new to cameras with more than a single button across the top (I miss the disposables!!) so lens nomenclature is a new language for me but i'm learning quickly.
bart

 

[Emowillcox]

10-22 is not a fish eye... maybe you should try a disposable fisheye... just kidding.. I don’t think they make that.... you can get a fish eye for your camera for probably close to $300.. I borrowed one from a friend who had it collecting dust on a shelf..... when I first got started and I would take photos then go into photoshop and take out the distortion .. .this was when I was first getting started and didn’t have a wide angle yet... you can get some cool artistic shots with the fish eye lens.. but I found once I had a wide angle lens I rarely used the fish eye and I eventually returned it to my friend who wasn’t using it either... depending on your budget.. you might go with that 10-22 then shoot wide and take the photos into photoshop and create the fish eye look there and save yourself money by not buying the fish eye.. just my thoughts..

 

[Droider]

Weird.. I just been out to a job in Yorkshire to get some pictures of a leaking panel!

 

[Bartman]

dave, if you don't mind i'm going to send a copy of those pictures to a home inspector friend of mine as an example of what's possible with the multi-rotors. he flew along with me on a flight one time but we were both freezing so it's wasn't very productive.

emo, do you have any experience with the other lens manufacturers? there are a few on amazon.com that have lenses for the T2i that are half the price of Canon lenses.

thanks!
bart

 

[Droider]

Bart, no mither use um at will.If you need any more examples just let me know. I am sketching out a new web site at the moment and will hopefully have it up in a couple of weeks. I think It would be good for business for all of us if we promote each others work.

 

[Emowillcox]

HI Bart.. I do have a sigma lens for my rebel and it works pretty good.. there seems to be a lot of debate weather other lens manufactures are as good as the big name ones.. mine seems to be okay and I hear many of the others are getting pretty good.. so I would imagine you could save a bundle and get a pretty decent lens.. and be happy. If you have the money and want the best of the best then go with a top name lens.. could be slightly better quality but probably hard for about 90% of the people to even notice the difference. That being said if I was getting a lens what was not big name brand then i’d do research on it. There are a lot of good ones out there, but I would not go and buy some cheap Chinese copy that had not been heard of.. hope that makes sense.

 

[jes1111]

I'm a firm convert to DxO Optics Pro, which is a hugely valuable addition to any photog's kit. Why? Because it corrects lens distortion, chromatic aberration, edge softness, sharpness, vignetting, etc. - all the things that distinguish third party lenses from expensive Nikon/Canon originals. So the formula goes something like:

Sigma/Tokina/Tamron lens + DxO Optics Pro > Nikon/Canon lens
and
Sigma/Tokina/Tamron lens + DxO Optics Pro = Nikon/Canon lens + DxO Optics Pro

i.e. save your money and get BETTER results than the Nikon/Canon (or equal if you use DxO with the Nikon/Canon original)

Of particular relevance to aerial work, it has really easy-to-use geometry correction tools as well - for straightening the horizon, removing/reducing keystoning, etc.

 

[Bartman]

jes,
i think someone else mentioned DxO Optics Pro somewhere where lightroom was being discussed. I gave the website a quick surf and it does look like a well produced package and if i can get the sigma lens and some decent software for the price of the canon lens then that seems like a reasonably safe way to go.
my original intention was to do as little post-production as possible and let people have the images to manipulate however they'd like but i think that that isn't a realistic business plan anymore. it's looking more like i'm going to have to have the capability to manipulate photos and deliver a finished product. this may seem rather obvious to a lot of you but i guess i've been living in denial.
thanks for the tips everyone!! it looks like i'll try the sigma lens with the DxO software and go from there. i wish i could afford the whole adobe suite of design and photo software but that's a lot of scratch for a guy that is just getting set up and wants to build an okto XL sooner rather than later.
bart

 

[jes1111]

You won't regret DxO - one of its other great strengths is that many of the adjustments it makes are "intelligent", i.e. the setting adapts itself to the particular image. This makes it a cinch to fiddle with the settings for one image from the shoot and then copy/paste it onto all the others. A great time saver compared to "one at a time" software like Lightroom.

Btw, I'd strongly recommend shooting raw then pushing them through DxO to output JPGs for the client. The ability to tweak colour temperature and exposure after the event is a job-saver.

For final touch-up needs, Corel PaintShop Photo Pro is cheap and just as handy as Photo$hop.

 

[Emowillcox]

Hey Bart.. was the price difference on the canon to the sigma alot? I guess its a matter of what are you going to be shooting as well. I have that 10-22 canon and sometimes I use it for aerial shots, but it shoots great in low light and I used it for to do interior shots for the 1st 3 years when I was getting started. I am not familiar with DXO but for sure you can’t go wrong with adobe. Do you use PC or mac? Adobe is a huge company that has been around for along time and has their fingers in many things from photography, graphic design, to video editing. I think others have written on here as well.. how good light room is. I use light room and adobe photoshop to process my photos. I know many in the industry that are using light room.
You are right.. unless you are on a bigger production where you are just the camera guy.. then you will more then likely have to process the photos as well as shoot them. Most clients know little about photo editing.

 

[tahoelight]

I have a 10-22. I don't use it much since I shoot my 5d more than my rebel and it will not work on the 5D. It is a necessary lens for the cropped sensor. I think it is definitely worth purchasing. I used to buy Sigma lenses thinking they where better for the price, but I am all Canon now. When I shoot my Sigma lenses, they just don't seem to have the same clarity and saturation. Also, most of my Sigma lenses are falling apart, although they are all over 10 years old now. I will try to dig up some photos from my 10-22, but I have always been happy for a sub-$1000 lens. I think for AP work from a T2i it is a necessary lens.

 

[jes1111]

I have a 10-22. I don't use it much since I shoot my 5d more than my rebel and it will not work on the 5D. It is a necessary lens for the cropped sensor. I think it is definitely worth purchasing. I used to buy Sigma lenses thinking they where better for the price, but I am all Canon now. When I shoot my Sigma lenses, they just don't seem to have the same clarity and saturation. Also, most of my Sigma lenses are falling apart, although they are all over 10 years old now. I will try to dig up some photos from my 10-22, but I have always been happy for a sub-$1000 lens. I think for AP work from a T2i it is a necessary lens.

I shoot both Nikon and Canon and have some serious "pro" glass for both. I certainly know what you mean when you speak of the differences with third-party lenses, but I would not put the 10-22 in that category! As Canon glass goes, it's no more than "so so" and easily substituted with Sigma + DxO (particularly on a crop-sensor camera). Now, durability is another issue (and not really relevant to AP).

 

[Bartman]

the price is the big hang up for me but in comparing the weights, the Canon is the lightest and the Tamron is the heaviest. My Okto is pretty much maxed out as far as weight goes so I guess that that will be the deciding factor. I spoke to Emowillcox last night and he pretty much just put it out there straight and simple....buy the canon.
Oh well.

 

[DennyR]

I find the 18/55 is perfect for most general video and photography, the problem with wider angles is the barrel distortion that comes with it. as the camera is usually pointing downwards slightly I am thinking that a tilt and shift may be a better solution. No Mither - that must be a local saying, never heard it before South of the Thames!!!!

 

[Emowillcox]

If weight is an issue then probably one more reason to go with the canon.....but Bartman I have to say I looked at some other comparison websites of the canon, sigma, and tokina for crop sensor cameras and they are all pretty close in quality from what they are saying. When I got my 10-22 canon it was the best option, but looks like more options out there now. I’m shooting with a 5d mk II now and I have a 14 mm canon that I love.. but for shooting outside the 14 was too wide for me so I got a 12-24 Sigma because canon’s only answer to this was the 16-35 but I really need to stay atleast 14 mm so I went with the Sigma to give it a try. I have been using it for a few months now and it shoots at a higher f-stop then the canon. I didn’t think it would be much difference and when the light is good its great but when I get in low light situations the canon blows away the sigma. I get some dark halo effect around the edges of my shots in low light with the sigma. I think for the crop sensor lens the f stops are all pretty close to the same so you probably would not run into this.
As for the barrel distortion you will see that the most when you are up close on something and if you get some distortion you can zoom the lens into 22 and it will more then likely get rid of it. If you have to fly in a tight spot with not much room you will like be able to shot wide at 12mm.