Aeronavics / Droidworx Droidworx Power Distribution Board

[mossb]

Hi,

I'm building Droidworx Skyjib X4 Titanium with 3515-KV400 and 6S batteries. Is one DW's PDB enough or should two be used? Wire spider could be one solution too.

Does large dome cover two PDB's and WKM?

 

[Aerial Media Pros]

Power Distribution Boards for Heavy Lifter Octocopter

We have been running the Droidworx Dist Boards for a while now on our Skyjib EPIC lifters. The copter that RED got from me also uses the droidworx Dist board and has been put through some intence flying. With the AMP EPIC 500 motors, 15x5 Carbon props, Dual 6S 10,000 and a Red Epic (9 lbs), it hovers at around 114-130 amps Total. I can vouch for and know that the Droidworx Power Dist board is more than enough for our set up, I do not see why it wouldnt work for yours.

Another Option is the New Gryphon that we have been using lately. A bit more expensive, but in incorporates a Built in Dual BEC. This is a nice feature because we like to run LED's, and a video transmitter off the main board. Prior to this, we were tapping the Droidworx Dist board and using individual BEC's. The Gryphon makes for a clean install by eliminating the individual BEC's.

You cant really go wrong with either IMO. Hope that info Helps.

You can find both POWER DISTRIBUTION BOARDS here if needed.


Patrick

 

[mossb]

Thank you, Patrick. I already have one DW PDB and feel safer to use it now, after getting answer from you in addition to multiple websites. Our payload is smaller due usage of DSLR.

 

[kloner]

i beat the crap out of that PDB and it's hanging in there as well......

 

[jonathandrade]

Hi, this is Jonathan from Ecuador. I'm building my Skyjib X4 and would like to use an APM 2.5 to control it. Has anyone of you had tried it? How do you manage to control voltage and current from the batteries for telemetry?
I already have the Skyjib X4 body, the Droidworx's power distribution board and Tiger Motor 40A ESCs assambled, and a vague idea about how to connect my APM 2.5, GPS and 3DR Telemetry. I'll be using two 6S 7700 maH 45C batteries.
My main concern is related to controlling the battery's voltage and power consumption, for estimating flying time. APM's power module works up to 18 VDC and 90A which won't be enough for my system (8 ECSs at max 40A will demand up to 320A) could you recommend me an alternative?


Thank you for your help and best regards,

 

[aerialshutter]

We have been running the Droidworx Dist Boards for a while now on our Skyjib EPIC lifters. The copter that RED got from me also uses the droidworx Dist board and has been put through some intence flying. With the AMP EPIC 500 motors, 15x5 Carbon props, Dual 6S 10,000 and a Red Epic (9 lbs), it hovers at around 114-130 amps Total. I can vouch for and know that the Droidworx Power Dist board is more than enough for our set up, I do not see why it wouldnt work for yours.

Another Option is the New Gryphon that we have been using lately. A bit more expensive, but in incorporates a Built in Dual BEC. This is a nice feature because we like to run LED's, and a video transmitter off the main board. Prior to this, we were tapping the Droidworx Dist board and using individual BEC's. The Gryphon makes for a clean install by eliminating the individual BEC's.

You cant really go wrong with either IMO. Hope that info Helps.

You can find both POWER DISTRIBUTION BOARDS here if needed.


Patrick

We have bought a Skyjib 8 Titanium. Previously we have used DJI S800 platforms which come with their recommended ESC's and motors. On this Skyjib we have the following config:


1 - Distribution power board - Droidworx 4606-0010 rated and tested to 240Amps maximum continuous current and peak short term maximum of 320Amps


8 - Maytech ESCs with SimonK Firmware 45A-OPTO NO BEC - Cont. Current 45A, Burst Current (10 sec.) 65A


8 - T-MOTOR Navigtor Series, mn4014 4-9 KV: 400
No. of Cells (Lipo): 4-8S
Max Continuous current: (A)180S: 30A
Max Continuous Power: (W)180S: 900W
Max efficiency current: (3-12A)>81%


1 - Pulse 6S 10000mah LIPO (25C) or
2 - Pulse 6S 5000 mah LIPO' (35C)


Now on the user manual of the PDB it says:


CAUTION:
This power board is rated and tested
to 240Amps maximum continuous
current and peak short term maximum
of 320Amps. That is 8x40Amp ESC’s
and equivalent rated engines.
For higher current setups use two
powerboards with 4 ESC’s on each
and stack together using 12+mm long
standoffs.
NOTE: The optimum set-up is for
40Amp ESC’s if you want to fit the
electronics under a Droidworx Dome.


Do we need to have TWO Power Boards or ONE will do the job? Please let us know as we need to have this octo working and we're worried one single Power Board can't stand the AMPS needed. thanks!!!


Michael O'Reilly
aerialshutter.com
info@aerialshutter.com

 

[dazzab]

Hi, this is Jonathan from Ecuador. I'm building my Skyjib X4 and would like to use an APM 2.5 to control it. Has anyone of you had tried it? How do you manage to control voltage and current from the batteries for telemetry?

The Attopilot current/voltage sensor is compatible with APM 2.5. When you configure the APM for the first time you can select it from a drop down as an alternative to the 3DR power module.

Here's a page with full instructions and a video by the lead software developer of Ardupilot showing how to solder it up:
http://copter.ardupilot.com/wiki/common-using-a-current-sensor/

The 180Amp Attopilot sensor is more than enough as it is put inline with one of the two batteries and then in the software you add a multiplier to give a value that equates to the draw of both batteries. So it only ever has half the current going through it. Works fine for me.

 

[dazzab]

Hi,

I'm building Droidworx Skyjib X4 Titanium with 3515-KV400 and 6S batteries. Is one DW's PDB enough or should two be used? Wire spider could be one solution too.

Does large dome cover two PDB's and WKM?

I've built the same copter and one PDB works fine. I don't know if the larger dome is required for a WKM as I use an APM FC but I'd recommend the larger dome either way. I have both and much prefer the larger dome. However, be aware that if you use the larger dome and you want to use a crash cage you will need the bigger crash cage to go over the larger dome. The larger crash cage does not snap in place like the smaller one. It's actually screwed in to the outer arm bolts. So it's a pain to get in to the dome once it's in place. As such, I don't use my crash cage anymore. I use the tinted large dome and it has provided more than enough protection the couple of times I've flipped the copter. I also have the sexy new fibre carbon look one but I keep it aside for special occasions.

 

[jes1111]

What?! No! Stop this madness!! :nevreness:

"Works fine for me" or "the rated spec is..." are not valid reasons to skip a proper consideration of what's going on here. You're talking about 240A!!!! You can weld steel with a lot less! The PDB might take that current but what about the wires and the connectors? The current won't give a rat's whatsit that your PDB is "rated to 240A" - it'll just melt your wires and connectors instead.

And that AttoPilot "180A" sensor only fits 12AWG wire!!!!!!!!!! - if you pass 180A through 12AWG you'll have a melt-down in seconds! Read the comments about it from the designer on the Sparkfun site - he says no heat-shrink, no electrical tape or it will overheat. So you're going to leave that PCB bare with exposed conductors about 1-2mm from each other? Madness! Fitting one of those to a multirotor is an accident waiting to happen, really!

 

[dazzab]

What?! No! Stop this madness!! :nevreness:
"Works fine for me" or "the rated spec is..." are not valid reasons to skip a proper consideration of what's going on here. You're talking about 240A!!!!

Well, we might want to consider reality as well. In practice, if wired up in a standard fashion the AttoPilot sensor won't have more than about 80Amps passing through it.

I'm not the only one using that sensor on a Droidworx with the same specs as the OP asked about. No need to believe me. One of the great things about using the APM is you have direct access to quite a few very talented people who fly and test just about every configuration out there. I sent the OP a link to doco on how to use the AttoPilot with the APM and it does work without over heating. If you don't think so discuss it with the author of the doco. I'm sure he will appreciate your feedback.

 

[jes1111]

Hi dazzab

I wasn't really questioning what you have or do - more that you were suggesting to the OP that he could "go right ahead" because it works for you and it's within the published spec, ignoring wires, connectors, soldering skills and all the other considerations. The OP didn't mention his take-off weight, didn't seem to have any idea of the total amperage his system will pull or give any indication that he understood how to deal safely with this sort of high-current DC system. But he'll plough on now because you've said "it works fine for me". It's just not responsible IMHO to encourage someone who clearly doesn't understand the subject (electricity) to muddle together a 240A killing machine on the strength of "some guy in a forum said it was ok". Maybe I'm being overdramatic but I've melted and burned enough components myself to have a healthy respect for these things.

 

[dazzab]

Hi daze
I wasn't really questioning what you have or do - more that you were suggesting to the OP that he could "go right ahead" because it works for you and it's within the published spec, ignoring wires, burned enough components myself to have a healthy respect for these things.

Bull****! Of course you were and I called you on it. Man up.

Anyone who read my reply to the OP can see that my advice was for him to go read the doco and the recommendations of people who know much more than you or I. Using the Attopilot current/voltage sensor is the correct answer to his original question. Many APM users are doing that with Droidworx copters. You could have posted a message saying that sounds odd, or that doesn't sound right, or you think it's wrong and asking for more info. But instead you jumped in with a dramatic response that was totally wrong. Your message had valuable info in it which was lost because of that.

Yes, I am 'just another guy in a forum'. A guy with the same system who is using it successfully after years of research and contributing to forums and working with very talented people. By your logic no one here should share their experience or knowledge because we are all 'just guys on a forum'. Except you of course.

 

[jes1111]

We'll have to agree to disagree, then - I hope @AerialShutters reads both your opinion and mine and makes a wise choice

By your logic no one here should share their experience or knowledge

Not at all - we can/should all share our knowledge but in a responsible way, mindful of the possible consequences of advice/opinions that we offer.

 

[dazzab]

We'll have to agree to disagree, then - I hope @AerialShutters reads both your opinion and mine and makes a wise choice

I hope they ignore both of us, read the doco and ask the experts. That's what I did and it worked out great!

 

[dazzab]

Not at all - we can/should all share our knowledge but in a responsible way, mindful of the possible consequences of advice/opinions that we offer.

Great advice. Why aren't you following it???