DJI 30A Opto Esc's vs Discovery Esc's

J

JG-rn

Member
Would there be any noticeable difference between the two? The Disco esc's are flashed with SimonK's FW and supposedly don't have the problems that other esc's have when flashed with the firmware.

I plan on ordering a TBS disco frame and will use my 900kv motors, don't know if it's worth it to buy the disco esc's since I have the opto's
 


kloner

kloner

Aerial DP
they all say the simonK are better, i also own both. think for los the simonK seem to fly a little smoother, but the optos do it on film. i'm happy with mine, there the ipeaka ones, are on my xy8 and the hex now, hex is naza and shes not the happiest camper yet. There on and off, optos seem to smooth that out
 

J

JG-rn

Member
kloner said:
they all say the simonK are better, i also own both. think for los the simonK seem to fly a little smoother, but the optos do it on film. i'm happy with mine, there the ipeaka ones, are on my xy8 and the hex now, hex is naza and shes not the happiest camper yet. There on and off, optos seem to smooth that out
Click to expand...

Kloner,

Thanks. Two questions regarding the disco. Is the core compatible with powering an ImmersionRC 600mw Vtx? I will be using a dedicate fpv cam for this. Second question, is the core compatible with powering a gopro?
 

R

RTRyder

Merlin of Multirotors
JG-rn said:
Kloner,

Thanks. Two questions regarding the disco. Is the core compatible with powering an ImmersionRC 600mw Vtx? I will be using a dedicate fpv cam for this. Second question, is the core compatible with powering a gopro?
Click to expand...

The TBS core will power any FPV transmitter as long as it's 1000 mw (1 watt) or less, the core is only rated to that power level. I don't see any reason why the core wouldn't power a GoPro as long as you have the jumper set to the correct voltage (5V).

As for ESCs, I can't say about the TBS ESCs as I don't own any, but I do own a couple sets of DJI and many sets of SimonK flashed DYS and HK Blue, the SimonK ESCs are by far much smoother and easier to dial in the gain settings with. The DJI work OK with a Naza as long as you have the right size props for the motors and RTF weight plus the gain settings dialed in, but there is a noticeable positive difference when switching to good SimonK flashed ESCs.

Ken
 

J

JG-rn

Member
RTRyder said:
The TBS core will power any FPV transmitter as long as it's 1000 mw (1 watt) or less, the core is only rated to that power level. I don't see any reason why the core wouldn't power a GoPro as long as you have the jumper set to the correct voltage (5V).

As for ESCs, I can't say about the TBS ESCs as I don't own any, but I do own a couple sets of DJI and many sets of SimonK flashed DYS and HK Blue, the SimonK ESCs are by far much smoother and easier to dial in the gain settings with. The DJI work OK with a Naza as long as you have the right size props for the motors and RTF weight plus the gain settings dialed in, but there is a noticeable positive difference when switching to good SimonK flashed ESCs.

Ken
Click to expand...
Thanks Ken,

Was going to use this cable for the gopro
http://www.drone-mods.com/DroneTec-Battery-Delete-Cable-DT003.htm

Do the disco esc's still have the lazy start problem?
 

R

RTRyder

Merlin of Multirotors
JG-rn said:
Thanks Ken,

Was going to use this cable for the gopro
http://www.drone-mods.com/DroneTec-Battery-Delete-Cable-DT003.htm

Do the disco esc's still have the lazy start problem?
Click to expand...

Pesonally I'd just use a battery backpack to keep the excess wiring to a minimum. You'll find the Disco needs a bit of extra weight at the front end to get the correct balance especially if you're stuffing a heavy battery in the back as I do, adding the backpack makes it easier to get that right balance IMO in light of the fact the Hero3 is significantly lighter than the older Hero series. When I flew mine with the Hero3 for the first time this past weekend I put the backpack on as it proved to be a bit unbalanced without it as I have it setup for the heavier Hero 1

I don't know if the TBS ESCs still have a lazy start issue or not. Personally I've never encountered it with reflashed ESCs and not having ever used or even seen a set of the TBS ESCs I don't know what the problem may be or may have been if it's been fixed.

On this one which is my favorite I use DYS 30A as the base ESC with the latest version of SimonK firmware, motors start right up and fly nice and smooth. I also use a backpack on this one since it gets the most use, often being in the air for a total of an hour or more on a typical day at the field...

IMG_2662a_zps0daf165f.jpg


Ken
 

J

JG-rn

Member
RTRyder said:
Pesonally I'd just use a battery backpack to keep the excess wiring to a minimum. You'll find the Disco needs a bit of extra weight at the front end to get the correct balance especially if you're stuffing a heavy battery in the back as I do, adding the backpack makes it easier to get that right balance IMO in light of the fact the Hero3 is significantly lighter than the older Hero series. When I flew mine with the Hero3 for the first time this past weekend I put the backpack on as it proved to be a bit unbalanced without it as I have it setup for the heavier Hero 1

I don't know if the TBS ESCs still have a lazy start issue or not. Personally I've never encountered it with reflashed ESCs and not having ever used or even seen a set of the TBS ESCs I don't know what the problem may be or may have been if it's been fixed.

On this one which is my favorite I use DYS 30A as the base ESC with the latest version of SimonK firmware, motors start right up and fly nice and smooth. I also use a backpack on this one since it gets the most use, often being in the air for a total of an hour or more on a typical day at the field...

IMG_2662a_zps0daf165f.jpg


Ken
Click to expand...

Ken,

Beautiful disco!

Are those the 28mm 750kv motors?
 



R

RTRyder

Merlin of Multirotors
JG-rn said:
What battery are you using Ken?
Click to expand...


Turnigy 4S 5000 30C, depending on outside temps and how hard I push it anywhere from 10 to 14 minutes flight time before 80% discharge. Flying into the wind and trying to keep a decent speed I often see a 30 to 34 amp draw on the OSD, drop the throttle to normal crusing speed and not fighting the wind it varies from 18 to 24 amps.

Ken
 

J

JG-rn

Member
RTRyder said:
Turnigy 4S 5000 30C, depending on outside temps and how hard I push it anywhere from 10 to 14 minutes flight time before 80% discharge. Flying into the wind and trying to keep a decent speed I often see a 30 to 34 amp draw on the OSD, drop the throttle to normal crusing speed and not fighting the wind it varies from 18 to 24 amps.

Ken
Click to expand...

That's a decent flight time.

I'm debating on how I should set this disco up. I have 900kv t motors on my f450 but I know these aren't the most efficient as far as flight time. I may end up not piecing out my f450, but instead just build a disco with new equipment. I like the efficiency of the 28mm 750k motors. I know they don't have the punch of the 900kv but the disco is intended for long range cruise flights so I'm not sure I'd need that power. Then I'm asking the question to myself if I want to make this LONG range capable like kloner's disco's. So this might just be a ground up build.
 

R

RTRyder

Merlin of Multirotors
JG-rn said:
That's a decent flight time.

I'm debating on how I should set this disco up. I have 900kv t motors on my f450 but I know these aren't the most efficient as far as flight time. I may end up not piecing out my f450, but instead just build a disco with new equipment. I like the efficiency of the 28mm 750k motors. I know they don't have the punch of the 900kv but the disco is intended for long range cruise flights so I'm not sure I'd need that power. Then I'm asking the question to myself if I want to make this LONG range capable like kloner's disco's. So this might just be a ground up build.
Click to expand...

The iPower are good motors and not huge power hogs, a good balance of power and efficiency IMO, I also have a set on my MK quad and with the MK I2C EScs that thing is an absolute rocketship straight up and in FF, it's also lighter than the Disco which helps.

My primary Discovery is setup for long range even though there aren't many places here in the northeast that are good for long distance flight. I've figured out that I can go roughly 2 miles out and still have enough battery left to make it back provided I'm not flying into the wind on the return. Not that I would ever try that kind of distance over New England woods, I'd like to have a chance of recovering the Disco if it turned out 2 miles was about a 1/4 mile or more too far to make it all the way back. Right now I'm using an Immersion 500mw 2.4 video TX with an EZUHF 8 channel diversity RX and an EZOSD on it so should the urge to try it strikes and I'm in the right terrain I may just go for it :)

My first Disco was a transplant from an F450, the second was a purpose built project with better parts and the second one is my primary FPV bird now. The first has become something of a testbed, currently flying with a Quadrino flight controller and soon to be home to something else, possibly the CC3D I have sitting here on my desk.

Ken
 

J

JG-rn

Member
Ken/kloner,

I'm going to order the disco tomorrow.

I have a few questions on what accessories I should order.

First, I'm thinking of getting the tbs esc's. Do these require calibration? I see they sell a calibration cable. I'm still up in the air if I should use my opto esc's or get these tbs speed controllers. I'm thinking it may be easier to dial it in using the tbs esc's since I could use trappy's gain settings?

Second, do I want the core? I have an immersionRC 600mw vTx and dedicated fpv cam on order. I'm not sure if i should do the core or just run them off a small lipo, or get the core and use the lipo as backup. If I get the core, do I want the tin shield?

Also, a gopro question. The hero 3, is it just the black version thats having the lock up issues? I need to order one.
 

kloner

kloner

Aerial DP
my personal opinion

skip the esc's there and get a set from here. be it any flashed simonk or or the optos. i've had best luck on the dji speed controllers, probably the best thing they make

simonK do need throttle cali, for 4 esc's total, i'd just calibrate em seperately, wouldn't need the wire. I just did 14 of em one at a time, wasn't bad.

i'd get the core if for no other reason the osd. the frame has a built in current sensor so it's almost a no brainer. an ezosd could go on it, you jst start raising the noise floor and decreasing everythings range.

an immersion vtx is best wired straight to the flight pack, just solder the power for it to any unused tabs on the frame that don't have regulating. Makes core run cooler not using it, but you can, you just double regulating voltage and double filtering, no real need to

don't use a seperate battery, no reason to

actualy the silver & hero2 are the ones that lockup with current firmware pretty much across the board. if you don't use protune, you can use the last firmware and it's flawless. protune is almost worth the trouble though, it really comes through crazy clear. on mine, i'd drop a video every 5-10 flights, one recording would shut off mid flight,,,,,,,,, sometimes if you push too many buttons turning it on or use one button on it liked stopping at 3 seconds............ the black powers through it all on mine, every once in a while i see it cache past the 3 second thing and it makes protune files in one solid file. hero2 and i believe silver makes a new file every 7 minutes, and that used to crash mine mid flight. making the new file. the better the memory the less it's an issue

my black has been working awesome, except i upgraded it recently and the pc doesn't like it hooked up to it any mroe. it still charges, but the pc goes into usb mode1 so it's like watching a floppy disk load
 



J

JG-rn

Member
Kloner, thanks, I'll do as you instructed.

Should I get the tin shield for the core? Also, I see the core comes installed already. I thought I saw that you can buy that at a cheaper price and solder it in yourself?

Ill get the hero 3 black and do the protune mod
 

kloner

kloner

Aerial DP
I'd get the shield

they charge $10 to install the core. i personaly couldn't get the dam thing in, it's super small and oh so hard to solder in. Burned a hole in my first board and destroyed a core within 2 minutes of being powered up the first round when i tried soldering. i personaly don't want a core unless it's pre soldered in
 


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