Another Tarot 680Pro build...

Ti@goo

Member
Is it possible to use the pcb plate on the bottom facing down to put the ESC also facing down, near the battery?

So i don´t have to put the ESC underneath the motors and extend the power suppy.

Is there any inconvenient to that?
 

Motopreserve

Drone Enthusiast
Is it possible to use the pcb plate on the bottom facing down to put the ESC also facing down, near the battery?

So i don´t have to put the ESC underneath the motors and extend the power suppy.

Is there any inconvenient to that?

It seems easier to have the ESCs between the plate since that's where the motor wires typically come out of the booms. But you can put the plate however you like - there is no ill effects to it.
 

Ti@goo

Member
It seems easier to have the ESCs between the plate since that's where the motor wires typically come out of the booms. But you can put the plate however you like - there is no ill effects to it.


For what i know the ESC do not fit between the plates.

I was also thinking on putting the ESC underneath the motors, and use bullets for the power supply..

Does that cause any type of stress??

Thanks
 

Motopreserve

Drone Enthusiast
For what i know the ESC do not fit between the plates.

I was also thinking on putting the ESC underneath the motors, and use bullets for the power supply..

Does that cause any type of stress??

Thanks

Sorry, you are right. It's been a while. I actually did have them between - but it limits the fold-able aspect of the frame. I did put them under the bottom plate for a while, on the arms near the center plates, and now have the under the boom. It raises the issue of the extended battery-ESC wire being too long, which seems to be debated quite a bit. Some say add caps to the run, others say it won't be an issue. I have been running it without adding caps, and haven't had an immediate issue. But I think the detrimental effects would be in the long term to the stock ESC caps anyayy, so may be too soon to tell...
 

Ti@goo

Member
Sorry, you are right. It's been a while. I actually did have them between - but it limits the fold-able aspect of the frame. I did put them under the bottom plate for a while, on the arms near the center plates, and now have the under the boom. It raises the issue of the extended battery-ESC wire being too long, which seems to be debated quite a bit. Some say add caps to the run, others say it won't be an issue. I have been running it without adding caps, and haven't had an immediate issue. But I think the detrimental effects would be in the long term to the stock ESC caps anyayy, so may be too soon to tell...

Instead of desodering the wires from the ESC to put bigger ones, i was thinking on using bullet conectors 3.5mm.

It does no harm does it for the power supply?
 

Motopreserve

Drone Enthusiast
Instead of desodering the wires from the ESC to put bigger ones, i was thinking on using bullet conectors 3.5mm.

It does no harm does it for the power supply?

If by "bigger ones" you mean longer wires, then you can put bullets between the current ESC wires and any extensions you add, but remember that it will be many more points of potential failure. Most people would tell you that it is best to keep any potential points like this to an absolute minimum (some people won't even use ANY bullets - hard soldering the motors to the ESCs!).

Obviously it's your call. If you want to avoid the longer run to the battery, keep them on the center plate like you initially proposed. If you want to extend the run, probably best to resolder longer wires (and possibly caps).
 

rolsen66

Member
Hi Starting a new Build soon with a similar setup

Carbon Nylon 12x4.5" 1245 1245R CW CCW Propeller OR DJI 10"
Afro ESC 30Amp Multi-rotor Motor Speed Controller (SimonK went with these because i saw someone that could fit them under the motors. i just think they look a lot neater
SUNNYSKY V3508 KV700 700KV 3-4S
Tarot 680 Pro Frame
Naza V2 + GPS
Lipo S3-S4

Any feedback would be good. I didn't go into much calculations on my setup just went with what was common
 
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Motopreserve

Drone Enthusiast
Hi Starting a new Build soon with a similar setup

Carbon Nylon 12x4.5" 1245 1245R CW CCW Propeller OR DJI 10"
Afro ESC 30Amp Multi-rotor Motor Speed Controller (SimonK went with these because i saw someone that could fit them under the motors. i just think they look a lot neater
SUNNYSKY V3508 KV700 700KV 3-4S
Tarot 680 Pro Frame
Naza V2 + GPS
Lipo S3-S4

Any feedback would be good. I didn't go into much calculations on my setup just went with what was common

i would do some calculations, especially since the 2 props you list alone would be worlds apart. Also, make sure no one is having issues with the simonk and the SS 3508-700.

im assuming that the lipo S3-S4 is the cell count - I would suggest not even bothering with 3S on this rig. 4S will definitely be the way to go.
 

fltundra

Member
(SimonK went with these because i saw someone that could fit them under the motors. i just think they look a lot neater
Not a good idea...you want to keep esc to battery wires as short as possible, extend the esc to motor wires if you need more length. Solder and heat shrink everything, the only bullets used should be the battery connection.
 

Motopreserve

Drone Enthusiast
Not a good idea...you want to keep esc to battery wires as short as possible, extend the esc to motor wires if you need more length. Solder and heat shrink everything, the only bullets used should be the battery connection.

The extension from ESC to motor won't get the ESC under the arm - unless you wrap it back twice. There is plenty of info to research on the ripple current created (or not) by extending the ESC to power wires. Some feel it's not an issue for multirotors because it's spread across multiple avenues, some feel add caps near the ESC or else Santa will forget you at Xmas.

Caps are dirt cheap and easy enough to solder if you are worried though.
 

zyzykrash

Member
I like the esc under the motor for many reasons. The biggest is having the extra room @the center plate. If you are concerned about power loss use a larger awg from power supply.
 

zyzykrash

Member
I desolder the power cable from the esc and solder one back on thats long enough and zip tie the esc to the bottom of the motor mount. It will stay cooler there and out of the way for everything.
 

Motopreserve

Drone Enthusiast
I like the esc under the motor for many reasons. The biggest is having the extra room @the center plate. If you are concerned about power loss use a larger awg from power supply.

Power loss is not the issue. The larger wire won't handle the increase in ripple, which is what happens when you have excessive length running from ESC to the power supply. People who are concerned about the issue need to add caps to do it right.
[MENTION=9982]econfly[/MENTION] did some great testing which resulted in a belief that we may be ok with our setups - other than the most extreme examples. But again, for peace of mind, you can add caps and free your mind of worry.
 




Motopreserve

Drone Enthusiast
You can use a bullet and put a heat shrink over it to help keep it intact. Or you could solder the bullet.

Not sure where you're talking about putting the bullets, but heat shrink over the connection is always a safe call.

If you soldered bullet to bullet (which I think is what you're saying in your second comment), you might as well solder wire to wire. Bullet to bullet would be 3 solder points that could fail instead of 1 :)
 

zyzykrash

Member
Static confusion (ripple affect) should not be a problem with wire in the carbon tube. Unless your talking about the wine.
 

Motopreserve

Drone Enthusiast
Static confusion (ripple affect) should not be a problem with wire in the carbon tube. Unless your talking about the wine.

Im now thoroughly confused, I don't even drink :)

The ripple is traveling down the line/wire, so the carbon tube will have no effect on this scenario. Might be be best for you to check out the info HERE:
 


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