anaka HL build

[anaka]

hi jwoike. yes the 3axis gimbal too, all the frame structure is from quadframe

hi MikeSF the foldable frame in a coaxial setup takes less space by itself, if you fold it you just go to save even more space...for transport in a car for instance

you decide when you need to fold them so it's up to you how often you need to use the folding arms
personally i just assembled it and didn't used the folding arms at all, this becouse i fly in my garden when i'm in development
will tell you more when i'll start to trasport the rig

if you mean how quick can be folded and unfolded it is less quick than a dji s1000 but it is much more stiff linkage when you flight, that is really much more important for me, safety fist!
anyway you just have to lock and unlock some screws on this frame to fold-unfold arms..nothing complex, you use just one screwdriver, i personally prefer this solution, i feel it very clever


for now i can tell you that the materials and the machinery of the frame in all it's parts are well done and robust
they are well minded and if you ever had occasion to build you own frame you can feel that Jakub from quadframe is givin a very good product at the cheapest price possible for that quality and materials

in my opinion this is a best buy

 

[Mike SF]

Thanks for the update. I agree that their folding mechanism is very safe and strong, so good for flying. Since you need access to the screws and nuts from the top and bottom, it's nothing you probably want to do a lot of times. And you have to make sure your build allows access to the screws. But for an occasional flight, it would be ok. I will keep this frame in mind.

 

[anaka]

Hi Mike

just to explain better

to lock unlock the folding arms you need just one tool...the nuts are fixed on the frame, like in cinestar frames, so you access only from top and use only one screwdriver
very clean and fast

in my setup i locked the ESCs to the arms so i saved space on the central frame, this let's me access quiclly the screws for the floding arms
and at the same time i cool up the ESCs with the airflow from the propellers

 

[Mike SF]

Ah, that's important that the nuts are fixed. Makes the folding much easier. Thanks!

I also like to put my ESCs on the arms: better airflow, less crowded between the plates, and short wires save weight.

 

[anaka]

here some quick tests with GH2 and Lumix G X Vario 12-35mm
raw data, just cutted and posted

some flights were in windy conditions, with strong gasps, the stabilizing level remained the same

total flight weight 7Kg

 

[stevemaller]

Are you using the MK power distribution board with the I2C connectors? I really like your setup. Bravo!

 

[anaka]

thanks stevemaller
as you can see by the pictures i made my own power distribution board, based on quadframe electric plates
then I dressed all the mkbl 3.0 in a very personal look and used the futaba connectors in the place of molex to connect the I2C to the flightcontroller

all works fine and KDE motors are fully supported by this setup

 

[stevemaller]

thanks stevemaller
as you can see by the pictures i made my own power distribution board, based on quadframe electric plates
then I dressed all the mkbl 3.0 in a very personal look and used the futaba connectors in the place of molex to connect the I2C to the flightcontroller

all works fine and KDE motors are fully supported by this setup

I'd like to see how you connect the Futaba connectors to the Flight Control board. Thanks!
I use the same exact motors on my X8.

 

[anaka]

on the square 13 you can see the D and C connections for the I2C, then you can use the Ground connection on square 7
and that's it for the FC board

on the MKBL 3.0 bottom side you can see the I2C connectors (top right of the picture) there you have the same 3 connections
C - D - Ground

i soldered a tipical 3 wires servo cable with futaba connectors to MKBL 3.0
i did the same on the MK flight control board

for the distributin of I2C signal from FC board to BL boards I used a single 3wires servo cable, i soldered the necesasry 3 pins connectors at the right distance to meet each BL board

all worked at the first shot!

there is nothing hard to do, it's straight forward

 

[stevemaller]

Awesome. Thank you. Never seen it done that way.

 

[crayfellow]

Hi @anaka. I am building a QuadFrame hex so it has been great to look through your build! Are you powering your gimbal and vtx using your main battery and a 12V BEC (as opposed to dedicated 3S for gimbal/vtx)? If so, which BEC and how is it working for you?

 

[anaka]

hi crayfellow

yes i'm powering all the system with one battery, to save weight, and i have more than one BEC

• one for LEDs that is the MK Extension-PCB with a Traco 12V BEC
  https://www.mikrocontroller.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=65&products_id=576
  https://www.mikrocontroller.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=74&products_id=573
• one for the Gimbal that is a step-down regulator
  http://www.robot-italy.com/en/adjustable-dc-dc-power-converter-1-25v-35v-3a.html
• one more regulator for the video TX but you need this only if you want to have more than 12V for gimbal so you need to step-down again the voltage for the videoTX

let us know how is going your setup!

 

[crayfellow]

hi crayfellow

yes i'm powering all the system with one battery, to save weight, and i have more than one BEC

• one for LEDs that is the MK Extension-PCB with a Traco 12V BEC
  https://www.mikrocontroller.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=65&products_id=576
  https://www.mikrocontroller.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=74&products_id=573
• one for the Gimbal that is a step-down regulator
  http://www.robot-italy.com/en/adjustable-dc-dc-power-converter-1-25v-35v-3a.html
• one more regulator for the video TX but you need this only if you want to have more than 12V for gimbal so you need to step-down again the voltage for the videoTX

let us know how is going your setup!

thanks!! One more question- you mentioned more than 12V for the gimbal, then adding another regulator for vtx. Why would the gimbal/controller need >12V?

 

[Motopreserve]

You should ask Jakub what he suggests for that gimbal. Many run at 4S to give the motors all the juice they need.

 

[anaka]

as motopreserve says
depending on how heavy is the load on the gimbal
you need more than 12v to have the right stability

 

[crayfellow]

you are right, the gimbal I have on the way is quite happy with 4S, so I would set the BEC around the 16V range, then use a smaller pololu 600mA regulator for vtx and fpv pilot camera if any, and maybe LED's.

 

[anaka]

consider that I use 13v on gimbal with a gh2 camera and 12-35 gfx lumix lens that is quite heavy setup... don't go to high with volts if you don't need

 

[crayfellow]

consider that I use 13v on gimbal with a gh2 camera and 12-35 gfx lumix lens that is quite heavy setup... don't go to high with volts if you don't need

what about GH4+metabones+70-200/2.8IS
(don't worry, I'll only be flying with 12mm prime)

 

[anaka]

you just have to assemble your rig and see how much power you need
that's it

 

[anaka]

new setup with latest KDE 18" foldable blades and new X-quad configuration

less mototrs less weight more efficiency same stability and performancesView attachment 25765

recently this model received the Official Certification for operations in Italy and now is ready to work in the respect of the law