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It can if everything else is perfect. the best way to make it work really good is for everything to be placed and setup the best it can. know it's grey, but that's how this is. every little bit of interferrence gets built up till it sucks. one little thing can do it. Bad connector on a wire...

yes..... i'd get 100 watts just to get away from the 25's price. it's a regional thing needed in europe so they get a premium

the difference between fpv and ap is that exact part, the real estate to keep interference down isn't there with the stock frame and the square shape makes it hover better than fly. if your doing them 1/4 mile an hour shots in 120fps then slow it down, keep the square frame, but if lets say the...

makes since, roll with it. That's the furthest from the motors....pointed up it goes level with the motors. Your trying to avoid metal, carbon, anything reflective between it and you

any of you guys got a ham license? I'm fixin to get r done, wonderin if ya had any tips or suggestions. i got a few flashcard and study links from a thread at fpv lab, just lookin for anything extra i should know

those are rctimer,,,, your saying he has tiger motors?

hows the video signal? what rc controll? any sats? any waiting?

I'd still avoid the precission hole thats the lower half of the hub. I got that one from the lhs and used it once. Dang thing doesn't cut very fast

there already listed, any day now http://www.team-blacksheep.com/products/prod:750kv_30aesc

that's the nice part about running a regular 4mm shaft motor. Them $3 graupner prop adapters make it all go away they should use em, if something ever acts strange in flight, even to the point of crashing i'd be looking that direction for an answer

it'd be a better option for the OP Brian too. Something he can hang cameras on later once he's got it down and do stuff with. Flamewheels are alright if you don't want to fly forward much and if you don't want fpv gear. There just a little tight to make it all work perfect. The discovery just...

that's what i do,,,,, i use slightly bigger motors and special frame plates the seperate components better but it's in addition to a f450 arf naza, gps, dji arms, dji esc's, only different is 2810 instead of the stock 2212 motors and the frame like i said if i was strickly building for fpv...

my 2814's do exactly what his did on the discovery,,,,,,,,, higher kv motors, but the things got a variable stick, it doesn't have to lean all 45 degrees and it doesn't have to eat into an 80 amp draw, it has a slower speed with less forward GPS mode i can't get it to do it, won't pass 50 amps...

that null circle i'm describing would vary for 20-30 yards around you over head. I'm talking get off to the side of the thing,,,, hundreds of feet. I don't know that i'd hover over it in the null zone like this, then say oh well, i'm gonna fly it. Any reason you can't test it off to the side...

straight overhead always has static like that, no wonder out the back was working,,,,,, the side which was pointed down was sending the signal. Is that the main thing your gonna do with it? if it is, might be wise to go sideways like you mention having luck. When i'm looking at a monitor, it's...

not if it's drilled straight. i haven't balanced a graupner in 3 months...... about since my videos got worth watching they should resemble this a guy mentioned in my post with that pic that removing the lettering helps get a flatter press on it, i figure if the props on the shaft straight as...

awesome bowley, it's agood feeling to get past that,,,,,,, ok, use shoe goo as little as possible but enough to hold the plug, i'd bail any tape, light on the glue, and put it like this 1.Camera 2.Plastic camera plate 3.ShoeGoo 4.Earplugs 5.ShoeGoo 6.Camera gimbal orientate the plugs like this...

if you want to play with manual, set yaw to 120, move the ail and ele gains to a dial or switch and crank em up. 140-200 ranges...... just be careful turning on atti with it that high, thing does weird stuff. if it looks like it's leaning over, stick with it and push the sticks to counter till...

if you can keep it out of the bottom half of the prop. can even be bigger and not matter. needs like a vise and a stopper on a drill press or a end mill with all teh stops set. That deal i showed there is drop in a cordless drill and push it in till it gets half way. they don't bite very hard...

if your taking off in atti, try manual 2212 are on the small end of power, 2217 would be about double the watts handling