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the distro board in a dji hex is suppose to be good for 80 amps try 900 or 770...... you will be able to prop right. usually 4lbs camera rigs aren't suppose to be fast, slow and smooth. your chasing tail in no mans land with anything else. these multi rotors didn't just fall off the truck most...

ch1 gets interfered by spektrum, futaba and hitec radios, 5 and 8 do not

the 750 kv are made to spin 12 and 13" props, if your not loading them up it's because your frame is too small for the weight and your unable to prop up to the task. mine use 12" props and are power houses on 4s, 2 seperate rigs both same weight as you describe my coax is 12x5 and12x7, flat 6...

I like my gear too much to run cf props. that just fakes things didn't happen. the xoars are $40 a pair, that's rich enough for my blood Graupners are alright but they just came out with 12", biggest before that was 11". the nitro xoar make lift with less horsepower than the same electric 1350...

ICE 75 does it as well, non opto

i'm spoiled there stiffer and there available in the 12"-15" sizes i use. them shown are the nitro version, super thick and more of an airfoil. there pretty much silent

the news channel i watch has a bunch of tilt shifted time lapse and was wondering what made the camera move so slow and smooth like it was....... now i know

board cams are what we as fpv flyers use to look thrrough. they have WDR and it is a really big deal if your in and out of light or if you look at alot of sun like sunrise/sunset. running a seperate camera also let you have a full screen live feed where on a hero, you got huge black areas top...

monty, this is the larger of the two im gonna try out. it's gonna be tested and tuned with a nex-5 on his end. he's close

usually the dry solder is the motor wire to the connector and the infamous dji rosin coated bullets. they get soaked in rosin in there jigs and can make the connector not conduct electricity reliably

i found out 333 is the max. i tried posting it, but lost this post.

i've killed the few nanos i've tried fast too.

http://aerialmediapros.com/store/product_info.php/skyjib-ready-fly-rtf-p-99 something dialed in ready to go is like that

just start with what you got now, i would think you would change em, but i'm thinking you'll see pretty fast if that's the case. loose, turn up the gain, high speed oscilation, turn it down lawmate 2.4 is the best. if your gonna fly around other people using futaba, spek and hitec you'll most...

pretty dam cool

and those motors will replace your servos...... I'm pretty sure we will figure out a way to replace the belt and cog on current gimbals to accomodate this type of drive. Your at the infancy of this, by this time next year these will be the industry standard

I'd like one too.....

read the first word in my post, look up three posts..... If something like that ruffles the feathers, this hobby is most likely not for you. it gets a lot more complicated than this

if it's torn down and i am diagnosing a problem or a new build, i hit the PC propless. if i'ts just a quickee, i'll just pray key being never let the radio out of your sight and treat it like a loaded gun. never let anything near the TX period, never be tricky and balance a tx, always set it...

qmamczacze, try taking the top off, follow that grey usb cable down to the frame, and unplug the grey caable, slide in your pc usb cable straight to the VU and see if it changes anything. that grey wire is an extension we as normal naza guys don't have......-