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Sounds like a bad mag. calibration also I found that basic gain is better around 130 and Atti much lower say about 60.

14.8 volts back up the red or white wire into the HF would not be good!!! Shades of MK and I2c fireworks..... Sorry mate I hope it is not screwed up.

I don't have that MZ14 anymore and I cant find the pictures of it but all it consisted of was a stick unit from an old TX mounted on the Tx tray to the right of the Tx. It was wired into the Tx via a standard RC socket so it could be detached easily. Then the penny dropped and I realized that...

most ESC failures seem to come from caps breaking contact. If you just paid 600 euros for a Kontronics top of the range ESC then you could be dismayed to find there is a call back on them. Be careful with Tiger Motor pancake motors, the high pole count requires a higher timing than all of the...

You have a brain...So much for my spore theory. Ha ha ha. No I think you may have fried something in the ESC. The two sides of the board must share the same ground but it could still overload and feed a few m/volts into the wrong bits I reckon.

You could assign that function to a switch and reduce the throws so that you can inch the angle into the right position. slew mode is the preferred control method for most pros. In the past I have grafted a third stick into the Tx which also works quite well.

The ground/neg. has returned through the black wire on your PWM cable. This has probably caused some damage.....

If it works for you as is, I would leave well alone but if the final axis looks like it is a little tight then you need to go back to the original settings. If it is balanced correctly then no matter at which angle you place the model the camera should not move at all. Even when you hold it on...

I was flying at a very large fete in Cyprus yesterday which is organized by the British Army. Afterwards several people came up to me and asked if I had lost a MR with 6 props. and a Canon camera somewhere in the Pafos area.

I have two Zenmuse and I do not have this problem. I can control and trim yaw, pitch and roll. In fact most camera movements I do with just the digital trims if I want the movement to be constant, continuous and slow. Roll is set on the left stick to prevent accidental movement once set, pitch...

It is important not to move the model for about 5 sec. after switching it on. I find using a switch makes this much easier.

I use em on everything now. 6s and 4s best endurance for the weight. You need a good Honda field generator, PS and charger for a days filming, or a lot of batteries. Maxamp do some good stuff or treat yourself to a Powerlab-8.

Not sure if this relevant but I see a difference in stability from GPS and Atti mode. When it's in Atti mode it is definitely less nervous. In GPS mode I see a very slight but constant oscillation. This goes away when I reduce the Atti. Gain down to 40 and increase the basic gain to about 120...

So why don't you use the trim button on the Tx or the sub trim?

I have one battery that does that. It must be a bad cell.

He's a real nice and funny guy.

It's working well for me. Interesting settings that I ended up with Atti at 40 and main gain only 80. everything else default. Rock steady. vented case.

Nice video. Nice young lady shows you how easy it can be.

The steadicam was invented by Garrett Brown, a hollywood cameraman who created a genre known as Cinema vertire - true cinema. he is also a folk singer and holds over 50 world patents. Tiffen and Cinema Products held a license to produce (Steadicam)

Rob An interesting set of figures. I am wondering however what effect having more pitch on the lower blades has on Yaw stability.