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I realize this is a silly thread, but I happen to have a good local hobby shop I'd like to support, and they stock APC MR props, but not adapters! I did mention it. Luckily for me, I found some extra adapters from another project so I'm set.

looks like this thread got lost in the shuffle. Yes, just hook it up to an AC adapter with (+) connected to the red wire. I suspect by now you've got it sorted anyway :)

When you break a prop, is it possible to remove the adapter/centering bushing without destroying it so it can be reused? Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Haha! Depends on one's perspective. For me it's all about the inevitable learning process and overcoming challenge! If everything was perfect all the time they'd be selling these things in Best Buy stores ... oh wait. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I did find one mistake I made due to a misunderstanding of what the RC1...RCn parameters mean in APM. I understand this corresponds to input channels, so I shouldn't have set 1100-1900 as endpoints for RC1-RC6, only RC3_MAX and RC3_MIN, for the throttle channel. However, I still wonder about...

yup - I recalled videos of Solo laying there trying to fly on its side when this was happening. I am certain at least once, and maybe twice, that I heard the disarm tones yet the motors continued spinning. That reminds me, I can't believe more people aren't talking about the solo using a fork of...

@Mactadpole that picture is hard to look at! Good to know it wasn't even more catastrophic, and I'll be extra careful about power-on calibration.

@JoeBob I used the diagram from this APM page. Then I have the frame in Mission Planner set up as a "plus" as opposed to an "x". I used a servo tester on the individual ESC's to check direction, then all at once when armed but without props. I didn't know there was a Pixhawk "motor test" that...

I had done a VERY careful accel calibration, then another, and based on my "little bit of roll/pitch with a bit of throttle" tests, the orientation was OK. Good thought, I will keep track of orientation and make sure I am recalibrating with any changes to avoid an easily avoidable goof-up.

I know what you mean - thanks. These heavy craft are definitely a whole other ballgame. I am reminded of building a drag racing car and picturing all the bolts and things I had carefully torqued coming undone when I would test-drive it. I think it adds to the pressure when you build it yourself...

Sounds like balance and the FC/ESC calibration are likely both at issue. I am certain about prop CW/CCW and motor direction, and tested nose out by (for example) holding roll to the left a bit, giving a bit of throttle, then same with roll to the right, then same with pitch to ensure bias would...

After the first flip I was pretty intimidated, so I wasn't too aggressive on the throttle in case it would do something up in the air and do more damage when it came down. And can you believe I didn't order any extra??

right - makes sense. I forgot to mention that is 2 x 6S 10Ah Multistars. Just to get the thing in the air for testing, should I put one of the batteries on the bottom, or just add an equivalent payload on the bottom to balance it out?

Inline with @SchrodingersCar 's 'Humbled' thread, I'm struggling with the basics of getting a 1000mm-ish craft in the air. I'm now pretty comfortable flying a 250-class quad (Blackout mini H with a nice FPV setup), and a FliteTest Electrohub wooden tricopter. I started with the 250 and cc3d so...

yeah, makes sense. I will use a bolt all the way through. For me on this project, round made sense since it can be easily and cost effectively found from multiple sources at any length. And I'm no mechanical engineer but I think round tube gives the best aggregate balance of aerodynamic...

Honestly, I'm starting from scratch so I'm amenable to guidance from the experienced! I really don't even know what I'm risking. poor alignment resulting in instability and errant vibration, I presume. So it seems like even with the bottom plates to hold things square, a screw is a good idea...

what is the correct protocol, drill a hole between the nuts and drive a screw? would it be less prone to twisting if I used the bottom plate since that would hold things more square?

I think you must have just been using motors that were OK with <=10mm center hole. For these motors, 12mm is a perfect fit, and that seems to be the common size as I look at other mounts available for >40mm motors. I'm going to ask Jakub to integrate a 12mm hole into the QuadFrame mount design...

which battery lasts longer depends on many factors. I've seen Bruce's rcmodelreview video on batteries for mini quads, I'm guessing that's what you're referring to. The point he was trying to make is that the 1.3 with the higher discharge C rating compounded with the lighter weight will be more...

what about the bidet?