Aerial MOB arm extensions for dji based frames

[kloner]

a ruler or yardstick or piece of wood, metal, anything perfectly straight.... you hold it down on the motor surface the prop sits and spin it into the other motor, do the back first cause there 45 degrees from each other. then align the fronts to the backs using the same method. anything but perfect is gonna fly like crap and have horrible efficiency. you should see 7-8 amp hovering

 

[kloner]

put the motors straight and you'll be shocked how long it flies.

14 min flight only with 6s 4000 how can i reach 22 min like it suppose to be drop the cell at 3.2 v ?

 

[themubster]

View attachment 19733 not sure what to do i have to aligne the motor with the others or to be parallel with the floor what i did is i mesured each sode of the motor like this View attachment 19734 to have the same mesure at each side...

 

[kloner]

like you got there with the bubble level is perfect, from there you gotta get what the level is sitting on flat under the level, then you turn from the back motor to the one in front of it and do it again. your trying to make the props all flat and level,,, if you have 15" props once the backs are level, you can level the fronts with prop tips.... they come close enough to show it....

 

[themubster]

Sorry im french so like this ? What do you think is it good enought ?View attachment 19740

 

[kloner]

I can't really see, you would be looking at a macro picture of the area the prop sits, twist the motors till that level is laying on the area flat on both sides....

 

[themubster]

Ha good its seems really flat now thanks for you help your a king i hope i can fly 20 min now... .). last question is it normal that my gimbale shut down, and my video reception glitch and close 1 secondes and restart when the vtx getting hot with no air flow ? Or it an other problem.?

 

[kloner]

not normal, sounds like you have a big vtx running off core. what all is the video gear and what voltages?

 

[themubster]

300mW 1.3 ghz dont understand that the gimbale kick and the video signal kick at the same time the vtx is not connected with it

 

[kloner]

The thing making 12v is suckin,,,,, start a ticket at team-blacksheep.com and somebody will sort out whats going on. sometimes when you passed on to specialized care, they like to see macro pictures of the boards cause sometimes the chips get blown off during builds, i've been guilty myself.

these are all placed in a jig that test the system so new there usually pretty tight QC wise.

 

[themubster]

Sup kloner.. Ive fixed all my motors with a perfect 90 angle with the floor hope it will help.... I have test my motors with no props to see the amp... It shows 2A on full speed with no props... Do you think i will get 7-8 A when i will fly ? And if it is.. Ill finally get my 20min+ of flight ?

 

[kloner]

that sounds right propless... a fully loaded disco depending if you can ff and get the amps to drop through technique. your shooting for 7.5 amps ff, you'll see it peak up into 8-9 amps and if you do, that should get you 18-20 minutes... at that point it comes down to grams of extra stuff you add. it's more than just a take it up and hit 20 minutes, it's a skill

 

[SamaraMedia]

you have a motor alignment issue..... take a ruler and make it swing around and hit the motor. I start with making both rear motors flat and level then i tune the fronts to the rears. If all that is dead on you have a motor bearing issue, but i'm guessing the first is more inline with your problem description

I constantly change whats on it between 6 motors right now, 8 esc's, keep trying to find that sweet spot. i'll boot it up, but usually i'm something like 140 on the basic, 100 on the atti and i put them on a dial, basic to tune manual mode then i switch to the atti gain to dial in the rest, mainly how aggressive i want atti to self level me, too high and they don't like coming back to flat after extended periods in fff.....

When you adjust your "Basic" gains do you link all four parameters, pitch, roll, yaw and vertical to X1 or just a couple - pitch, roll? And you do all your adjustment in manual mode, not atti or gps correct?

I'm starting with the default setting with all four enabled. I'm using MN3508 - 380kv motors running 5200 4s battery with 14" Maytech T-Motor style cf props. May try the 13" props too.

 

[kloner]

I start with the default gains,,, seems like it was 140-140-125-130 or something like that, put it on x1 and i'll dial that in best i can, switch to atti using x1, adjust that then i pick it apart one gain at a time on x1, eventualy i dissable it all and leave the gains where they went

 

[SamaraMedia]

Went out and did a little adjusting, here's what I came up with that seems pretty good, higher gains that I thought they would be. Adjustments in Manual was a little touchy, need to add some expo to my controls. Using the Futaba T8FG, when in dual rate which way do I go with the expo + or - and how much do you throw in there?

 

[kloner]

I have expo d/r on a switch, d/r never changes but my expo is -50 in one mode, -100 in another. that's how i stick it to them train tracks, -100

 

[SamaraMedia]

So I guess the -10 has barely an effect on my sticks ;} I'll have to learn how to program that switch and expo use. Thanks.

 

[Vortex]

I'm thinking of putting a set of Mob arms on a TBS Disco with 15*5 CF props. What KDE motors would you recommend running 6S??

Thanks.

 

[SamaraMedia]

I think Kloner started out with the 3520-400kv but has been testing a variety of motors, esc's and props of late.

 

[kloner]

the 3510 are a great fit and effficient as it gets..... if you want alot of payload like a big gimbal or a huge battery, the 3520 are really nice. 35 amp esc, 6s, hovers 7-8 amps