Roxxy 2827-35 motor bearings

[Bartman]

Hi all,
I'm in need of bearings for my Roxxy's and no one seems to know what the specs are for replacements. Has anyone been able to find that information? Mind sharing it?
Thanks,
Bart

 

[jes1111]

Can't you just take the bearings out and measure them? There's no mysteries with bearings: outside diameter, shaft diameter and thickness (plus a flange sometimes). The material, the grade, the sealing, etc. can vary of course - and that's were you can upgrade by going to more expensive ones. Once you've sorted out the size (and noted whether it's a sealed type or not), it's just a question of choosing an ABEC Grade - grades for "precision bearings" are ABEC1 (the lowest grade of "precision bearing", but still hugely better than ungraded bearings) thru ABEC9 (ludicrously accurate, probably only need for the Space Shuttle). Most bearing stockists have the common bearing sizes available in a number of (or all) the grades. ABEC3, 5 or 7 units would be a massive improvement over whatever is in there currently and shouldn't cost an arm and a leg.

Try here.

 

[Crash]

Can't you just take the bearings out and measure them? There's no mysteries with bearings: outside diameter, shaft diameter and thickness (plus a flange sometimes). The material, the grade, the sealing, etc. can vary of course - and that's were you can upgrade by going to more expensive ones. Once you've sorted out the size (and noted whether it's a sealed type or not), it's just a question of choosing an ABEC Grade - grades for "precision bearings" are ABEC1 (the lowest grade of "precision bearing", but still hugely better than ungraded bearings) thru ABEC9 (ludicrously accurate, probably only need for the Space Shuttle). Most bearing stockists have the common bearing sizes available in a number of (or all) the grades. ABEC3, 5 or 7 units would be a massive improvement over whatever is in there currently and shouldn't cost an arm and a leg.

Try here.

Good Info!

I just took apart 3 motors and the dirt sure gets in the smallest places. Any opinions on using sealed bearings? There's no way to oil them. But maybe they won't ever need oil because they are sealed?

 

[Bartman]

I understand what you guys are getting at but I believe there are two different types of bearings in each motor. The tops are plain old radial bearings but the bottoms are both thrust and radial in nature which I believe are called angular contact bearings these days although I may be wrong on that.
I can take my motors apart and put a micrometer on the bearings but I thought someone may have already gone through the exercise and has the info to post here. I also emailed the folks at quadrocopter.us but they didn't have the data on hand either.
With my near disaster this morning I wasn't quite inclined to go pulling motors apart. If/when I come up with the data I'll post it here.
Bart

 

[Buzzed]

Bart is there a trick to getting the bearings out? I have a 2827-35 in front of me with the bell removed and have been un-sucessful at yanking the bearings. I'm about to hit the bearing with freon to see if I can get it to contract enough to sneak it out. (In case the EPA is listening I will use proper reclamation procedure) yeah sure.

 

[FlyEYE]

Try contacting Boca Bearrings. I did with my MK2832-35. They investigated and put together a package (now listed on their site under mikrokopter). They originally got the package wrong and sent out a replacement free of charge. In my case the upper and lower bearings only differed in size. I replaced 3 sets today, fortunately my company has a "press" that they use for installing bearings among other things. My bearings had loctite so it took a decent amount of force to get them out. I couldn't manage to remove them with out the press.

 

[Bartman]

@Buzzed, thanks for offering to help out but I'm not sure if there's a trick to it or not. sockets make great supports for working on bearings either to use as a press with a small hammer or as a support around the outside of the bearing to push one out. Any chance there are markings on the face of the bearing that are readable? probably too small but worth asking.
I contacted Boca but they don't have the data for the Roxxy's!!

 

[Crash]

Buzzed: Heat loosens the 30 weight ball bearing glue and you won't bend stuff using your 20 ton shop press.

Didn't I tell you before that it's all ball bearings nowadays?
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4prqDn7QS8I&feature=related

Bart: If the markings are too small to read try a high 'mega-pixure'. I doubt cheap bearings have markings though.

 

[Buzzed]

It's all ball bearings eh Crash?

Bart I don't want to hi-jack your thread, I do intend to replace the bearings on my motor but there are other problems with a Roxxy that I have. After doing a bit of reading that Crash suggested I got the bell yanked. All the magnets appear to be intact and still glued in place. I did notice a spot on the stator where dirt had worked it clean when I crashed months back. Yes I dug this motor in the ground and it was full of dirt. And so checking each of the 3 legs to the stator I see the gray wire is indeed shorted to the stator.

Looks like rewinding the motor and replacing the bearings is my only option if I want to save 95+ dollars. So my next question is this, has anyone here pulled the stator on a Roxxy 2827-35 that might give a few pointers? How do I get the stator loose from the end plate without destroying same? Is this a press fit here, will hitting it with the heat gun help?

Crash do you think the newbie wire is best used or should the other magnet wire be my choice here? Looks to me like the only difference is the type of insulation used on the wire itself.

 

[Bartman]

what is the consequence of the gray wire being shorted to the stator? does it kill the one winding and reduce power output? put the motor at risk of total failure with the telltale puff of smoke?
i'd be afraid to pull my motors apart and start looking around......everything's probably fine in there, right?

@Buzzed, I'll make you a deal, send me the bearings and I'll buy new ones and send you a few sets for your motors along with your old ones.

 

[Buzzed]

Ron van Sommeren suggests checking for short circuits between the windings and the stator. Good idea. Since the windings are all connected to each other, check for any connection between the motor stator lamination's and the windings. Look for bare metal somewhere on the stator for one connection to the meter, and the meter windings to the other. If no steel bare spots are available, you will need a needle point on one of the meter probes to punch through the coating of the steel lamination's. The meter should show an open circuit, or infinite reading. Again, any connection is bad news, and is cause to scrap the motor. (Or if you've wound the motor your self, unwind, and do it again, but more carefully.)

Bart that's a deal PM me your full name and mailing address and once I get the bearings pulled I'll ship them out to you. I tried baking the stator at 350 degrees this morning to see if heat worked. The only thing I got was cookies.

 

[Ryan Thomas]

Roxxy bearings

+/- 3.17mm ID X 8mm OD X 3.5mm this is R2-5ZZ bearing
+/- 3.17mm ID X 9.5mm OD X 4mm this is R2ZZ bearing

 

[Bartman]

Good morning Ryan and thanks for the info! Excellent first post!
Sorry Buzzed!
Ryan, the lower bearings are straight radial bearings? I'd have thought they'd be radial/thrust bearings with the washer and snap ring pushing against the bearing when the prop is making lift?
I can't find that size at the Boca site so I'll have to keep looking.
Bart

 

[Buzzed]

Bart I ended up using a small allen wrench and a plastic headed hammer to tap out both bearings. Ryan's measurments are the same as I came up with using the digital calipers. Working with the stator now.

 

[Bartman]

Thanks Buzzed. Any markings on the faces or edges of the bearings?

 

[Crash]

So my next question is this, has anyone here pulled the stator on a Roxxy 2827-35 that might give a few pointers? How do I get the stator loose from the end plate without destroying same? Is this a press fit here, will hitting it with the heat gun help?

Crash do you think the newbie wire is best used or should the other magnet wire be my choice here? Looks to me like the only difference is the type of insulation used on the wire itself.

Turn your iron up to 700, put it in a glass upside down and sit the bearing on the tip for a couple minutes to loosen the glue. Now use the motor holder screws to evenly jack the plate off. The windings will be destroyed but they were bad anyway.

I watched someone do that last month with that same motor. (Yes he knew what he was doing.)

 

[Buzzed]

Thanks Buzzed. Any markings on the faces or edges of the bearings?

No, that would be too easy Bart. I have a local bearing supplier that I'm going to visit today, he's never failed me yet. I'll see if he might have something in a sealed bearing while I'm at it and get back to you.

 

[Bartman]

Great, thanks Buzzed!

 

[Ryan Thomas]

I just replaced those bearings on a roxxy of mine. broke 2 in the process, so buy a few!

Jan Vaclavik from Axi actually gave me those part numbers (AXi the next motors I buy if I have the bucks)

Got them from a local supplier (south africa) (BR1/8 AZZ or R2-5ZZ)

 

[jes1111]

Metric vs imperial always causes problems!

Those are inch-size bearing, so you won't find them by looking for those mm dimensions!

R2-5ZZ: 1/8" (0.125") ID, 5/16" (0.3125") OD and 9/64" (0.1406") width (AST part) (BOCA Part - ABEC7)
R2ZZ: 1/8" (0.125") ID, 3/8" (0.375") OD and 5/32" (0.1562") width (AST Part) (BOCA Part - ABEC7)