Getting Started...BY beginners, FOR beginners

Motopreserve

Drone Enthusiast
Hey folks!

In posting my experiences with my very first multirotor build, I was surprised by how many questions I got from people who are also just starting out in this hobby. During my attempt to understand multirotor concepts I found so much valuable info all across the Internet, but realized that I often felt uncomfortable asking very basic questions in a sea of experts. There is a vast amount of info out there, based on rapidly advancing technology. While this info is almost always valuable for reference or future use, I found myself needing explanations stripped down to the most basic form. Sometimes I find it easier to learn from folks who are on my own level, instead of asking someone far more experienced to slow down to my pace. I am in the infancy of this hobby, and this is just some info I have gathered along the way…

I am creating this thread with the hopes of sticking to the most basic info, focused on helpful things to know when first starting out with multirotors. I am NO expert, in fact far from it. These are just some of the things I wished I'd known for my first build, and the parts I should have ordered when I initially decided to take the plunge. I did a few things right, and more than a few things wrong. Maybe these lessons can help others who are new to the game. As our collective experience grows, checking back here to drop a hint or tip will likely help those who are right behind us in getting into this obsession...

Before we begin, a quick shout-out to Bart who has made this forum possible, and what it is today... a great place to gather info in a friendly and relaxed atmosphere. Check out the Sticky's at the top of this Beginner's Section. Cheers Bart!

If tricks, tips and hints begin to roll in, I will try to keep this updated towards the top of the thread so it's easy to reference. Let's try to keep it on-topic.


BEFORE YOU BEGIN: Before you do anything, you need to decide what it is you are trying to accomplish with your first build? Is it for stunt flying? Maybe you’d like to do aerial video or photo (AP)? Do you want to get into First Person View (FPV)? These are the questions that need to be answered BEFORE you begin making lists and ordering parts.

BUDGET: Best to be honest with yourself about this up front, because chances are - you will quickly blow past that mark. Everyone wants to pay as little as possible to get airborne, but it’s not always realistic. Set a budget knowing that you may go over by a bit. Comfortable with that number? This hobby can lead to dangerous scenarios if done incorrectly, so it is best not to skimp on certain things. Plan ahead so you know you have enough scratch to build a safe craft.

TINKERING & SKILL LEVEL: Do you have patience? Do you own a good soldering iron? Are you willing to put the time in to tweak a complicated Flight Controller, or do you want plug-n-play? Better to decide these things up front before thinking you'll dive in to your first build using a raw Arduino board and turning your own hardware on a lathe. Most of what you have to do for a basic build is... well, basic. But there are more advanced concepts that take a ton of research and patience to wrap your head around. Know what you're capable of beforehand, and that will help dictate purchases/choices.

DON’T BITE OFF MORE THAN YOU CAN CHEW
: We all want a straight shot to the perfect multirotor. But the truth is, it takes some serious research and development to build our ideal craft. Probably best to accept what you know, and what you may be capable of. This way the chance for success, however modest, is well within your reach. Someone with past RC experience will probably have an easier time advancing to the more sophisticated concepts. Those of us that are completely new to the hobby may need to take baby steps. No shame in taking your time to ensure that the first machine you put in the air, regardless of whether it’s tricked-out or simple, is safe and secure – and of course FUN!

GATHER, ACQUIRE, DIGEST: As stated earlier, there is enough multirotor info out there to choke a horse. But that's what it takes to get one of these inanimate objects airborne. Be ready to scour the web, read, and attempt to digest as much as possible. This thread will hopefully fill in some of the most basic gaps, but it takes a lot more than basics to get really good at this hobby. So get to it!

BE FAMILIAR: Although you may be shooting for a simple set-up, it's best to familiarize yourself with all the common terms and acronyms. Bart has been compiling a list HERE. These things will come up at some point or another - and best not to interrupt a train of thought every 30 seconds to go look up another definition.

BASIC TOOLS & SUPPLIES: These are the things that I have found to be: helpful, a cool gadget, or tools that are absolutely necessary.

  • Good Soldering Iron: Cheap ones won't work for larger gauge wire and can lead to headaches even on thinner gauges. If you are getting into this hobby, this is a great place to start. Weller is the standard-bearer, and one that has adjustable temp is ideal. If it’s not adjustable, 25W would be a decent choice.
  • Good Solder: I have been using 60/40 mix. It’s working for me. I’ve messed with all sorts of solder. You don’t need to spend a fortune, but this stuff is the heart (or blood) of your machine – make sure it’s decent quality.
  • Heat Shrink Wrap: This is absolutely necessary for keeping things safe and isolated after you solder. Two metal connectors touching can be disastrous – so make sure you have this in your toolbox – and don’t forget to prep it BEFORE you solder your connector!
  • Heat Gun: You can use a hair dryer to melt the heat shrink (some people use a lighter, it’s NOT recommended) – but a proper heat gun can be easier due to its higher temp. These can be had cheap at places like Harbor Freight, and your lady won’t kill you when it gets screwed up...
  • Solder Sucker: If you are new to soldering, you may find yourself needing to remove solder and begin a connection again (see prepping heat shrink above). This makes getting old solder off very easy.
  • Workspace: Having a good place to work is very helpful. Imagine dropping a 3mm screw onto a messy floor covered in dog hair. Unappealing? So why not set aside some healthy workspace before you get started?
  • Organizing Bins: Anything from tackle boxes to the plastic bins from craft stores will help you keep parts organized and easy to find.
  • Hex/Allen Driver: The standard L shaped Allen keys are fine for when you need torque – but this hobby is filled with tiny hardware. Get yourself a cheap screwdriver type (with swappable size tips) and you’ll be much happier.
  • Loctite: made by many companies, this is the stuff that will keep the hardware tight when the vibrations of motors/props attempt to spin off at altitude, ruining your day. The blue seems best – since you don’t need the semi-permanent red type making motor swaps and repairs difficult. Also, if you are using nylon hardware, test your Loctite first to make sure it doesn’t degrade it.
  • Various Hardware: I have found that having a bunch of hardware on hand has made changes, repairs and modifications much less stressful than having to run to the hardware store every time. This is cheap and easy – and online hobby shops often have stock cheaper than you can get locally. Having both nylon and metal hardware in your toolbox helps.
  • Extra Wiring: Having common wires on hand is beneficial for the same reason as the hardware above. Better to have extras than have your good time halted by lack of foresight. Having extra servo leads, battery balance extenders and various gauge electrical wire all come in handy. Usually these can be added to your very first order… don’t worry; you’ll use ‘em.
  • Extra Connectors: Your choice of connectors will depend on what comes pre-soldered to your parts, discharge/power of your battery and other variables. Deans, XT-60 and bullet connectors seem to be the most popular choices. Whichever you choose, make sure you buy some extras so that you have them on hand when you need them, especially if you are new to soldering.
  • Helping Hands: These are priceless for soldering up the multirotor. They can be bought cheap.
  • Zip Ties: I have found that having both large and small sizes have made securing ESCs and wiring very easy. You can get various colors to match your build.
  • Anti-Static Mat: These are nice to have on your bench to avoid transferring electric shock to the delicate electronic parts of your multirotor. You can usually find these in places that deal with DIY computer components (Radio Shack, online retailers etc).
  • Prop Balancer: There are many out there, but they all help get your props balanced correctly. Do some research and get the best you can afford, these will help make your multirotor a better machine. Period!
  • Clear Nail Polish: Use this to balance the props and hubs. Many use tape for the blade, but it's easier to use liquid on the hubs. I've used CA to balance hubs, but polish will come off a lot easier if you overdo it.
  • Battery Charger: They come in different shapes and sizes, but you absolutely need one. Do some research and get a decent one – you’ll appreciate it when you don’t have to run out and get another one immediately. Don’t forget the wall charger to go with it – they conveniently don’t include that. Make sure you get one that offers "Balance Charging."
  • Digital Scale: You really need to know where your build is headed – weight wise. I was able to buy a cheap kitchen scale that switched between all major units of measurement for under $10.
  • Tachometer: Cheap infrared tach guns can be had on eBay for about $15, including the tape used for tracking the speed. Good for testing your motor speed.
  • Multimeter: Another great tool that can be purchased cheap. Go for the digital kind, and preferably one that can measure DC current up to 20A or higher. If you are near Harbor Freight, you can get a “disposable” one of these for $3!
  • Foam: Next time you’re about to toss some packaging foam, think twice. This stuff can be used to secure, protect and isolate components on your quad. The open-cell type in varying densities will come in handy.
  • Hot-Glue Gun: Have to admit this is less appealing the more I use it, other than securing delicate parts to a PCB. It does offer a "temporary" hold for some things that you don't want to use CA (or superglue) on, so it has a value for sure. Make sure you get one that has a fine tip on it.
  • CA: Basically this is model/hobby superglue. It comes in various strengths and drying times. Always good t have in your toolbox...
  • Double-Sided Tape: This stuff can be priceless when you need a small part to stay put.
  • Velcro: The mac-daddy of keeping things in one place.
  • Liquid Electrical Tape: This stuff is miraculous! Goes on as a liquid, but dries like electrical tape. Gets into the nooks and crannies...
  • Hemostat: These things can help hold parts/wires like the Helping Hands listed above, but are not tied to a base.

There will be plenty to add to this thread, but for now this should help get a few of you started down the path to better research and hopefully get you into the air a little quicker…
 
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Motopreserve

Drone Enthusiast
This post will have some info on particular parts that need to be ordered for your first build.

BATTERIES: Please check out Bart's BATTERY THREAD on LiPos. These things need to be cared for in a particular way, and should not be trifled with. They blow up! 'Nuff said...
 
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jbrumberg

Member
Good stuff here Scott. Only other stuff I can think of are hemostats, clear nail polish for prop balancing, and liquid electricians' tape. Thanks for putting all this down in one post.
 

COMike93yj

Still Building!
Excellent Post Scott!!!!

I have some things to add but will hold off for a couple of days to gather my thoughts and put them down on paper.

One thing that I would like to add....Training! Some people advocate building a multirotor and just simply flying it. I don't do this. My "Basic" F-450 build frame is rapidly adding up in price. I would HATE to crash this sucker simply trying to get it tweaked and flying stably. I have some limited experience with flying RC Helis from about 8 years ago but this did not necessarily translate to the multirotor in some aspects.

What I did was to get a small micro multirotor (in my case a Blade Nano QX) that I picked up for just under $70 dollars for a "Bind-n-fly" or "BNF". (BNF means that you bind it to a transmitter you already have). This saves a few dollars on the multi rotor itself but you will need a compatible transmitter. The transmitter that comes with these micro quads is OK for flying them but in my opinion are not good for the main transmitter you are using for your bigger quads that you will build. Get yourself a good transmitter....this is something that you will wish you had down the road and they can be found much cheaper on Craigslist or Ebay or local sites used. Hobby King has some transmitters that many folks use and are very happy with them. Do your research and ask questions on them!

The reason I got the Nano QX is because I have a hard time with "nose in" flying. "Nose in" flying is a term I picked up years ago when flying both RC Helis and aircraft. In layman's terms, it deals with how your controls on the transmitter relate to the orientation of your aircraft/heli/multi. I believe the majority of folks learn to fly with the aft side of the craft facing you. This is a very easy orientation to learn because if you want to go forward you move the stick forward. Back....you move the stick back. Right....stick right. Left....stick left. (rudder does not matter because left and right are the same no matter what the orientation...unless you are inverted LOL).

This is called "Tail in".

When you fly "Nose in" the controls for forward, back, left, right....are now REVERSED. What you did to make the Quad go FORWARD will still make it go forward in relationship to itself but it will be opposite of what you did when you had the aft end of the quad facing you. For me this is pretty easy to understand especially if you can see your quad. Where I have an issue is when it comes to turning left and right. This is hard for me! Left and right are easy concepts but if your quad is racing towards you with its nose....."nose in" the left and right inputs on the stick are reversed based upon your original orientation.

If you can always picture yourself inside the craft, you simply make it go the way you want. However I have a hard time doing just that and need to practice. A FUN way to do this is with the inexpensive Nano QX.

These are MY opinions....but they work for me. You may be able to fly successfully without the trainer (Nano QX in my case) with regards to orientation and that is OUTSTANDING however, I have an issue with this.

Another reason I use the microquad as a trainer is because eventually I want to fly without the Self Leveling feature of the quad. Most, if not all, flight controllers have the function of self leveling. In all the heli's that I have flown there is no such "leveling" feature that I have come across in the ones I have used (granted this was a LONG time ago).

With the self leveling feature disabled, the quad responds to ANY control input (stick movements) that you do. This is a FUN way to fly and you can do all sorts of aerobatics with the device. However, you won't have the self leveling feature and if you put in too much "bank angle" you will have to counteract that with your stick movements.

For me, flying my "expensive" first build (aka not $70 but rather $300 to $400) is NOT the place for me to practice without learning elsewhere somehow. Another benefit to using an inexpensive quad is that when you crash it...and YOU WILL, is that it costs WAY less than a larger version. The Nano QX I use has been crashed well over 200 times EASILY. I have had to replace two propellers and had to put some tape on the frame...THAT's IT! I also have no issues attempting maneuvers to learn how to do them with little fear of heading off to the ATM for replacement parts.

Another way of "practicing" can be done in a simulator. You can find them online and there are many different ones out there from free ones to ones that cost upwards of $200! I have an old copy of Realflight G3.5 that I bought for $180 bucks in 2005 or so. I got it new and it really helped me fly (or attempt to :) ) my Heli. It does not have multirotors on it but for orientation purposes, it works splendidly. Most, if not all, simulators on the computer also allow for using your OWN transmitter. This is accomplished with a separate cable that hooks YOUR transmitter to the simulator and you can use your own! The nice thing about the sim's is that you have access to TONS of models from sailplanes, foamys, helis, etc....so if you ever add to your collection of RC aircraft, you can practice those as well!


Well this is some basic information on why I use "Training Devices".....they serve me well. The other really nice thing about both the sim and the microquads is that they can be used in ALL weather and at ALL times INSIDE!!!!
This is all about fun and if the weather or night time come, you can still have a blast harassing the pets (or wife :) ) while flying in the safety of your own home!

I hope this helps a bit....

Cheers,

Mike :)
 

jbrumberg

Member
I agree with you Mike about the benefit of real flight experience with "toy" grade quads and simulator flight training. The nano and micro sized quads were just too small for my liking and I do not enjoy flying indoors and upsetting wifey and our dog so I went with the slightly larger "mini" sized quads. I have the flight space do not mind outdoor flying in inclement weather and modified my quads to accommodate the weather and distance visibility to some extent. I have and still fly my 4 SYMA X1's with my programmable Tx which are ("only") 3 axis gyro corrected quads every chance I get just to keep practicing orientation (tail in/tail out, etc.) skills and I am doing it at ever increasing distances too- 300' - 400' presently. I bought a cheapo simulator, a Clearview SE about a year ago too. I was never really able to set it up with my Tx, but I could use a USB Tx with this program. The mcpx CP helicopter (which I would love to learn to fly someday) approximates the flight characteristics of a quadcopter (except the 3D stuff) and really helped me with basic orientation and Tx stick control. I do not use my flight simulator as much as I used to use it nowadays.

Even when I become proficient with flying my self built quad I still see myself flying my $30 X1's in "bad" weather, or "bad places and taking them up just for some carefree flying or with one of my #808's. I would rather destroy one of these units than my expensive build job. There is an interesting thread going on at RCG right now just about carefree, joy of flying. There are a lot of opinions being posted.... and lots of ego exhibited too.

Just some more of my two cents. Jay
 

Motopreserve

Drone Enthusiast
I think the use of micro/mini quads and simulators can be very helpful. They are a tool I will add to the second post. But after finally flying the larger quad, I can say that there are a host of things that I had to work out on the new, bigger rig.

The sheer power, and the inherent intimidation of flying a more expensive, valuable craft raise the stakes. I appreciated that I had practiced on the small, less expensive quad. But I still crashed the big one, despite all my attempts to work out the kinks on the Blade Nano.

At the end of the day, you just have to fire it up and hope your training will help guide your actions on the larger rigs...
 

Motopreserve

Drone Enthusiast
BATTERIES: Please check out Bart's BATTERY THREAD on LiPos. These things need to be cared for in a particular way, and should not be trifled with. They blow up! 'Nuff said...

PRACTICE
: Check out post #4 above. Mike makes some great points for practicing with a micro-quad. Also, this can be done with simulators (or both!) prior to diving into flying the larger, more expensive rigs. Micros are made by manufacturers such as Blade, Syma and Husban.

TRANSMITTER CHOICE
: You are going to need a transmitter. There are several companies offering inexpensive alternatives to the old school staples (some really inexpensive!). This is one purchase you should really consider researching and spending for the best you can afford. The transmitter (Tx) and to a lesser degree the Receiver (Rx) are products that can last quite a while, regardless of where you go with the hobby. A good transmitter can be used for multiple crafts/vehicles, and if researched with some foresight, should not be obsolete months after you buy it. When you determine your budget, make sure you leave enough room for a good quality Tx.
 
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