First build with questions (FPV Quadcopter)

[Jonas104]

Hey guys,

In the middle of my first fpv racing quadcopter build and have a few questions. Many thanks in advance to any help. I've spent literally dozens of hours on youtube and many nights filtering through forums and being told to read stickies to weed out the answers to my questions. I'm really tired to be honest hehe.

In this picture, I need some honest opinions whether you think I should resolder this in order to avoid potential crossing from the pos to neg. Or can I apply some hot glue and be ok?

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Here I soldered the motors to the ESC's... they weren't labeled so I followed a video where three was no real order, they just soldered them straight across. I'm assuming I can change the directions in CleanFlight.

Now with these 20a opto ESC's I can't power my Naze like I've seen in many videos. I cannot find one showing how to properly power a Naze REV6 using a BEC. I'm hesitant to try something and just end up frying my boards and shiz. Is the following diagram OK? (Paint skills Level: Max)

PDB to BEC
BEC powering Naze through number six.
Rx being powered by a servo cable through 1, 2 and 3 (3 for signal)

Questions:

Also, I'm not sure exactly where to connect the Rx to use telemetry for voltage. Would it be the Tx/GRND on the D4R to the GRND/VBATT pins on the Naze?

How can I power my FPV camera/reciever if they will need 5V instead of 12V. Is it done through multiple BEC's, dedicated PDB or can I simply splice the power leaving the BEC?

In the future I'd like to add LED's, would I blow them to smithereens if I connected them directly to the PBD.

Pencil's down!

Thanks again so much.

 

[Bartman]

good morning Jonas and welcome to MultiRotorForums.com!

In that first photo the power wires look like the joint wasn't hot enough when you attached the wires. Did you tin them before attaching them? Don't worry about the wires touching each other, if the joints are well done the wires won't move so they won't be able to touch.

let's get through those questions and we'll move onto the others.

 

[Jonas104]

The cables were already tinned. Seems like it was a different solder that melts at a higher temp than I am using. I should have probably trimmed them and tinned them myself.

 

[Bartman]

when i come across that i just put some flux on the wires and add a little solder of my own before attaching . you should def go back and redo those attach points so the solder isn't just attached at the surface, those will likely fail at some point the way they are attached.

moving right along, i don't know if the motor directions can be changed in Cleanflight or not. reversing motors is something that has become more common but i don't know about cleanflight specifically and I don't have a board with me so I can't get the GUI to open the pages.

what you showed in the diagram would work and you can use a buck converter from ebay as the BEC if you want to save some $$$. going into the motor #6 ports with 5v power will fire up the NAZE and that's a perfectly acceptable way to do it when using OPTO ESC's.

if the camera needs 5V then just split the BEC output like you said.

12v LED's do ok with 3S Lipo power and some will even hold up with 4S power (16.8 volts max!) but we have seen LED's catch fire when overvolted (is that a word?) so be careful because they'll burn up the whole enchilada once they get going.

any more questions just fire away and congrats on getting this far!

 

[Jonas104]

Wow, thank you so much Bartman. You just made my day.

Can't wait to finish my build.

 

[John Doecliff]

Solder with some lead in it is better than lead free. Flux makes things a lot easier too. Those power leads look like cold solder joints to me. You may want some strain relief on them as well so you reduce pulling on them.