Beep, Beep, Beeping ... ESCs!

[Jay_Z]

Hey all!

Hoping you can help me!! I am having an issue with the Hobbywing 30A Platinum Pro Opto ESCs on my hexacopter (Tarot 680 Pro).

Recently, I installed the XAIRCRAFT SuperX Flight Control System. When I got it all plugged in, the ESCs started beeping.

It looked at the typical issues - set trims to 0, made sure throttle was all the way back and I went through and individually throttle calibrated the ESCs, which worked to calibrate (I'd calibrate and spin each up). After all this, they are still beeping.

Again, I plugged these into the SuperX and they wouldn’t arm, just continue to all beep. I then connected a different SuperX and they did the same - connected a MiniX and the same, still beeping. Tried another Futaba remote … same thing, still beeping. I also did the factory reset sequence on these ESCs.

To test the FC, I installed the SuperX on another hexacopter which used the same Hobbywing ESCs - in this case, they armed and I flew successfully with this.

Do you know why these would all be beeping and not arming on my initial hexacopter? All 6 are beeping. Any other steps to resolve??

Thanks for your help and suggestions!!

 

[Old Man]

Try re calibrating the ESCs through the receiver (not through FC) with throttle trim at higher than the bottom. I went through this with a Vector. With trim all the way down the servo pulse was too low for the ESC's to arm. 1000ms to 1080ms at low throttle position may clear things up.


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[Motopreserve]

I had the same issue with the superx and hobbywing. Old man is right - people have luck calibrating the escs with the throttle end point higher than normal (say -95 instead of -100). Then when done, put the end point back to normal and do your radio calibration in the superx.

 

[Jay_Z]

Boom! I did the throttle calibration again and when I pulled the throttle back on the calibration, I stopped one mark short of the bottom for each ESC. After this, I powered the hex and the ESCs armed and the motors fired up. Thanks Old Man!!

Now, I'm at 100 on my endpoints - but I had tried 100 and 135, neither made a difference earlier with this issue. Do I adjust the end point now?

Or, just go forward with connecting to the FC and doing the Neutral Point & Reverse calibrations?

Thanks for the info, Motopreserve!! If you could clarify on how to correct this, I'd greatly appreciate it. Why is it different on this hex (when I pulled the SuperX and Futaba directly over to the other - just in the calibration with the ESC?) Thanks!! I'm so happy now!

 

[Motopreserve]

It's the ESCs coupled with the superX that are the issue. As old man mentioned, the level of signal the esc wants to see to say "all safe, ready to arm" is not be provided by the superX, in the way the ESCs want to hear it. So tricking the ESCs into getting a higher level of signal (by raising the lowest end point - which is minus 100 normally) will show the ESCs what they want to hear.

If you go into end point adjustment and raise the level (and for the low setting, this would be climbing toward zero), it should work.

Instead of the low endpoint being (minus/negative) -100, make it (minus/negative) -95. If that doesn't work. Try -90.

Make sense?

 

[Old Man]

JayZ, you are most welcome. I'm embarrassed to say I spent three weeks trying to figure the same problem out with the Vector and happy to share it to save someone else from experiencing the same.

Things get even worse if using a Castle ESC. They run out of power before the throttle stick hits 100%. They cap out at about 1080ms and it's why many times you can get more RPM from a lessor quality ESC. Something to do with conversions from the old 72mHz frequencies instead of more direct with today's 2.4.

You can alter timing until the cows come home but you won't change the high point.

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[Jay_Z]

It's the ESCs coupled with the superX that are the issue. As old man mentioned, the level of signal the esc wants to see to say "all safe, ready to arm" is not be provided by the superX, in the way the ESCs want to hear it. So tricking the ESCs into getting a higher level of signal (by raising the lowest end point - which is minus 100 normally) will show the ESCs what they want to hear.

If you go into end point adjustment and raise the level (and for the low setting, this would be climbing toward zero), it should work.

Instead of the low endpoint being (minus/negative) -100, make it (minus/negative) -95. If that doesn't work. Try -90.

Make sense?

Thanks, that makes sense - I adjusted the endpoints, from 135 - 75 to see how this affects it. Over 100 didn't make a difference but >100 or 90 did. However, even after throttle calibrating each of these and playing with the endpoints, I end up with a varied point at which the motors start. Whether I'm at 85, 90, 100 ... one will start when I pull the sticks back to start, one takes 2 clicks up on the throttle, couple others at 4 and the other 2 at 6. Now, I just have to figure out how to sync this up correctly! But, at least, with the help of Old Man's suggestion, I can arm them now!!

 

[Old Man]

Calibrate all the ESC's again. I know it's a PITA but that's likely the problem. If you can. do them all at the same time.


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[Motopreserve]

+1. Gotta recalibrate throttle/esc. Then you can put the end points back after.

 

[Jay_Z]

Thanks to both of you! I'm ok with calibrating - if I can do anything that increases the reliability of my hexacopter, I'm all for it! I'd rather spend a few extra minutes with a tedious task than wishing I had taking a few extra minutes!

I did each one of these individually, a few times. I tried adjusting the end points as well. As far as the end points, I can't start under 85 or 90 and 100+ seems like the max (100 seems to have the same effect as 135).

Ultimately, in throttle calibrating these, I still end up with one that motor that will turn on when I pull the sticks back to start the motors - a few clicks up on the throttle and 1 or 2 others might start, a couple more clicks (up to 8) and the others will start. Which is ok, as long as they are turning at the right speeds when I take off - I've been doing this with the props off. Although, as I speed up and slow them down to the midpoint, I can have one or two motors stop and I have to go full throttle and they might start up again. But, if I slow to half throttle (a hover position) or lower, I might have 1, 2 or 3 stop.

I've switched from manual and GPS mode - but, will anything change one I do a GPS calibration and I have satellite connection? Seems like if I'm having these issues now, it will be the same. I'm a little hesitant to put the props back on! Is this behavior as unusual as it would seem, even though I'm indoors?

 

[Motopreserve]

You absolutely can not fly it with the motors starting the way they are. They need to all start together, and be running at the same speed (if you're testing flat on the table).

I'm sorry, but I can't understand what you're referring to with the numbers. What are your end points set at? There should be a negative number, and a positive number. Is it NEGATIVE 85 and positive 100? The only number you should change is the negative number.

Also, you mention calibrating the ESCs, but have you done it since you've changed the end point?

 

[Old Man]

Travel values above 100% are only useful when using servos that are designed to make use of larger than standard "throws". Standard travel is 60* each direction but 3D flyers generally want additional control deflection so they increase travels using higher travel percentage values. We don't use servos...

Most ESC's function with standard servo pulse width as part of their design, which is 1000 to 2000ms. For us that translates to -100% to +100%. They don't register higher values.

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[Motopreserve]

Right. Different value is what you need on the lower value (represented by the negative number). It is merely to trick the esc into getting what it wants to see - to arm the motors.

This has been pretty well documented with the taranis and superx combo, and certain ESCs (particularly "OPTO" style) I'll see if I can find the thread.

 

[Motopreserve]

I can't find the specific thread - but I recall people having luck with end points set in taranis to -90 & +100. Do the esc throttle calibration. Then return the end points to the -100 & +100 before doing the superx radio calibration.

This should make the ESCs think that the end point is sufficient to arm the motors.

 

[Jay_Z]

I can't find the specific thread - but I recall people having luck with end points set in taranis to -90 & +100. Do the esc throttle calibration. Then return the end points to the -100 & +100 before doing the superx radio calibration.

This should make the ESCs think that the end point is sufficient to arm the motors.

Thanks, I gave these settings a try. I moved the end points, then did an ESC throttle calibration, then moved these to -100/+100.

After doing this, I had the same results - pull back on the sticks and motor 4 starts, moved the throttle up a couple clicks and 2 more start, a couple more and the next 2 or 3 will start. When I return from 100% throttle, it's the same - as I get just below 50%, one might stop, a little further and 1 or 2 others might stop and further 2 more.

I did another throttle calibration - all at once, same. Individually, same. I also did the throttle stick calibrations with my SuperX and while outside, did a GPS/Compass calibration. Interestingly, I thought I'd see what happened if I had them all fired up (no props) on GPS mode. While at about 75% throttle, I'd move this around and occasionally, one prop would stop. Now, in flight, I'd imagine they typically slow down but I think a full stop would be unusual at I rolled it a little right to left and moved it around.

Either way, these just don't seem to be going right - from startup to shutdown! I've used the SuperX on another hex and it was working ok before. So, it must be in my ESCs.

 

[Motopreserve]

The fact that you can get the motors to fire by cheating with the throttle stick a bit means you're close.

Just to be methodical:

1a. make sure all sub trims (switches on the outside of radio) are centered.

1b. Do taranis stick calibration.

2. Then try changing the lower end point value to -85. Then try -80 if that doesn't work.

3. Do throttle cal (all at once is fine).

4. Then set end point back to -100.

5. Do superx radio calibration.

6. Try to arm again.

7. If some/all beep. Try power cycle without changing anything else. Try power cycle a few times if necessary.

 

[Jay_Z]

The fact that you can get the motors to fire by cheating with the throttle stick a bit means you're close.

Just to be methodical:

1a. make sure all sub trims (switches on the outside of radio) are centered.
1b. Do taranis stick calibration.
2. Then try changing the lower end point value to -85. Then try -80 if that doesn't work.
3. Do throttle cal (all at once is fine).
4. Then set end point back to -100.
5. Do superx radio calibration.
6. Try to arm again.
7. If some/all beep. Try power cycle without changing anything else. Try power cycle a few times if necessary.

Thank you! Yes, good to be methodical when I'm losing my patience!

I appreciate the advice and suggestions. I did run through these steps one by one. In fact, not any one of them had an effect on this - I still have the staggered motor start/shut down. Although I have since eliminating the beeping and arming issue that I started with.

Regardless of the countless throttle calibrations and end point adjustments, nothing changes the staggered start. When you pull back to startup, 1 starts and others start as you continue to throttle up (and, the same is true in throttling down). Hobby Wing said it must be the FC - XAircraft advised the ESC need calibrated!

 

[Motopreserve]

As frustrating as it may sound, you may need to swap ESCs. If those steps aren't getting you to where it needs to be, you'll probably never have confidence in that combo. Do you have some other ESCs you can try? Swap with another build?

 

[Old Man]

Question; are you applying throttle very, very slowly when to start up the motors? It the craft level when you apply throttle, if so and if not, with the props removed rapidly apply throttle with it level and see what happens. Props removed.


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