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Sooner than I thought! http://imaging.nikon.com/lineup/acil/bodies/v1/index.htm Of the two new cameras, the V1 is certainly the more interesting one for this application. Not the least of reasons being that it features plain video out (the J1 has HDMI only) and can capture full-res stills...

Sounds good - how much is it?

ah - no - I believe the BL is good (and one of the main reasons that the MK platform is "good" on stability). But it's really only applicable to the MK platform (it has PWM input but I've not seen any detail on its speed in that mode) and it has "heat issues". That 4-way ESC board looks...

By all accounts the quickest-responding ESCs that are commonly available are the humble Turnigy Plush - made by Hobbywing, also known as Hobbywing Pentium and many other names I gather (some threads in RCG map out the various brand names). I've also heard (but not confirmed) that Jeti Spin are...

btw - sorry, I forgot to mention before - if you can find the way to attach your choice of pulley to a servo spline, the pulley/belt profile you want to go for is not MXL but "Powergrip GT" in 2mm (or maybe 3mm) pitch. MXL is a square-toothed design - lots of backlash - whereas the GT series has...

"Space-age polymers", eh? That'll be "nylon" then ;)

As I'm sure has been mentioned on the RCG thread (which I haven't read), ESC performance is increasingly critical to stable flight as your frame gets larger. All ESCs that were designed for fixed wing aircraft have an input filter which basically smooths/ramps the acceleration. This amounts to a...

Yep! And then on the long, sad drive home: "The trees were on my left! My left!"

Looking good! For the landing gear, why not some extending off the bottom of the gimbal's upright pillar and splayed out (to avoid fouling the roll), like a duck's foot? The length can be extended with small fibreglass tubes until your confident enough to land it square every time. The ideas...

Would need to know how much current you're intending to pull through those Molex. My guess is their going to overheat. :( Something like this would be a better bet: http://www.astroflight.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=18&products_id=37

There's no problem with having a BEC on each ESC, just don't use them if you want maximum reliability ;) - As you say, remove or cut the red wire. (If you do use a BEC, you should only use one, so remocve/cut the red wire on all but one. Nasty electrical things can happen if you have multiple...

btw... the twisting thing applies to servo wires and the wires between Rx and FC as well as the wires between FC and ESC. Most hobby servos come with three-conductor ribbon cable simply 'cos it's cheaper and easier for them to make it that way. Carefully separate the three wires then twist them...

It cuts down on radiated EMI from those wires - something to do with little magnets cancelling each other out ;)

One other thing - pos/neg wires from battery to ESC should always be (lightly) twisted, and the three wires from ESC to motor should always be (lightly) twisted. Some people like to braid the three wires, but IME that results in a very bulky result. Use little pieces of heat-shrink at...

Looking good! I've researched this "ESC wires" issue as thoroughly as possible. Trouble is, of course, that you can find reasoned, scientific arguments both ways! However, after weighing all the evidence, my conclusion is to keep battery > ESC short and ESC > motor can be lengthened to suit...

It may seem odd me offering advice here since I have not yet flown a multirotor, but I have been learning/practising on a sim. Many years ago I was taught high speed riving by the UK police force. One of the very useful techniques they teach is "talking", literally speaking out loud everything...

Well, you can twist them all the way between the ESCs and the motors, but once the bundle is inside the carbon arm, the CF will have some shielding effect itself - and anyway the wires will then be a good distance from the sensitive components in the centre.

nice job! only thing I'd also do is twist the motor wires (loosely), at least until they are inside the arms and clear of everything else.

http://www.robotshop.com/eu/lynxmotion-servo-mxl-timing-belt-pulley-32-tooth.html

I'm not an expert, but "Normal" sounds good ;) - certainly, the consequences of running too high on timing is excessive motor heat, which you don't have - so it sounds like the motors are happy with the setting you have.