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RCTimer A-2836/9 :) Suggested replacements as listed by @ovdt - Avroto, Pulso, QC, Tiger, MK3638, etc. - they are basically all the same as the Axi 2814/22.

I agree - everything's fine and dandy except those motors :-) ---> Axi 2814/22 (or any of the equivalents as listed by @ovdt). Then you'll be well in range for a light(ish) camera (i.e. not a 5DMkII) and 15 minutes in the air. To use eCalc to help with these calculations, weigh the frame...

More interesting to me (though in a different price bracket) is the new Samsung NX200, which appears to have PAL/NTSC video out and a plug-in remote release - the two issues that compromise the Sony NEX family. Shame the new Nikon V1 and J1 seem to be a bit of a washout.

Not necessarily smaller - Axi use internal stator dimensions, others (including MK) use external can dimensions. Look up the sizes/weights at...

Not sure how you'd intend to use those silicone studs, but remember that they should only be use in compression/shear. You can't "hang" anything from them.

I don't think you're going to win this one. The way to do it is to use "Bulb" mode to hold the shutter open from just before the firework explodes, only closing it when the firework has finished exploding. Not easy to do on a multicopter ;) Might be better to try to get permission to be...

A little offensive, windhorny. You might learn something about China manufacturing before blindly following the party line that "made in China is BAD, made in USA is GOOD" ;)

Weight and strength, I believe - non-electrics being more robust to withstand the rigours of high-speed, high-vibration rotation. Nothing to stop you using non-electrics, except that (in theory) they won't perform as well due to their higher weight (and hence higher rotational inertia).

Nobody ever said this was easy, did they? ;) Given that you shouldn't be using the servo's shaft to support the radial load imposed by the belt's tension, the solution to that provides the solution to the attachment issue, too. A shaft, mounted on two ball bearings, either one each side of the...

Good idea - but you'll need that torsion bar in there to stop that slight tail lift on acceleration ;) J (a Beemer Boy)

Squash balls - interesting idea! Try it! Not sure you were asking the right question at Gelmec. They certainly have both silicone and wire rope isolators to suit this weight range - but I agree they ain't cheap! The wire rope isolators are €40 a pop!

Like I've said in the other thread - don't be discouraged! In many ways you actually want the craft to weigh as much as possible. Since you won't be flying inside an enclosed aircraft hangar, wind is the enemy. Every disturbance to the craft's attitude/position, requiring correction by the...

Sorry - didn't realise - Windows or the forum software squished the image. Attached again. To get to 10+ mins just change the battery from 3300mAh 4S2P to 6000mAh 25C - you get 10:13min - adjust the weight of the battery to the actual value (from the link) and you'll see 10:81 Don't be...

I agree - the servo's output shaft should not be supporting the belt's tension. The job should be given to two ball bearings, one each side of the drive pulley (or as a spaced pair with a cantilever shaft). Mount the shaft and then attach the servo (solidly, but using the play available at its...

Titanium may give you rigidity, but there are easier, cheaper ways. The stiffness of any material is proportional to the cube of its thickness. So use a cheaper, easier material but simply make it thicker. This is the idea behind the now-common construction technique of spacing two parallel...

Hi - The gearing looks very "high" - 6:1? 8:1?

:rolleyes:

I always set the weight in the top line to "without Drive" and enter only the weight of the frame, gimbal, camera, landing gear, electronics, etc., i.e. leave out the weight of the motors, batteries and ESCs. That way you can vary the batteries, motors (type and/or number), props, etc. and see...

Wear eye protection! :) I've watched lots of the OpenPilot guys doing this basic test by holding the quad above your head (with BOTH hands) and having someone else move the sticks to confirm correct responses. Needs two people, obviously, but it's quick, simple and definitive.

The lens multiplier is 2.7, so a 10mm lens will be equivalent to a 27mm lens on a regular 35mm camera. That's "wide" but certainly not "ultra-wide" (its about 67° horizontal field of view). That would be just fine for me, but many might want wider. On the video interpolation, I'm not an expert...