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I thought I was a smart guy and designed my own rig. I have since changed the frame, motors, esc's, FC...lol So basically the whole thing @ a total cost of $5000-6000 loss by the time I sold the components at a loss and the frame was crashed. lol

The other night I read a 18 page post on another forum about how the A2 flight control is having major issues with coax config. Loss of altitude... Something to do with the vacuum created by coax tricking the barometer. I believe the pixhawk has similar problems from that thread as well...

I respect sleepy a lot and always value his opinion but I've talked to other guys I respect equally and they claim the ability of a coax to buck wind better than a flat rig is bs. These are guys that have experience with both flat and coax. I believe the jury is still out and there are just...

I'd like my futaba throttle to beep when it's in the center just like the knobs do.

I would say pushing down is very, very minimally more efficient as the props are not pushing air on the arms. Cons. Props more likely to get into the shot. Way More dangerous to hand catch. Possibly less stability because the center of gravity is higher in relation to the props.

Try it while in the assistant and you will have your answer.

Kopterworx did the ground work. Found the right board, soldered a molex harness and shrink wrapped it. I don't blame them for charging $100. They are providing a service. For the diy guys you can do this all yourself. The molex harness is available at hobby king for $1.

Here is the exact same board that was in the kopterworx version I bought. http://www.goodluckbuy.com/fpv-aerial-photography-hdmi-to-av-converter-diy-pcb-board-for-5n-7n-gh2-.html

http://lipoconnectionsolutions.com/Power-Supplies_c2.htm This guy is the best for power supplies.

The phantom series is extremely reliable. I have over 1000 km's on my p2. Push the limits my friend.

Well you are more connected to ff than most of us so you would know.

Ya. I have tmotor 17". They were hard to find. Readymade was the only ones that had them at the time

where are you folks getting maytech in the larger sizes 16, 17, 18"? Also, surprised foxtech is not selling the lite anymore. I love them for testing after ruining a set of tmotor @ $300.

you can always use wet sand paper. then the dust will be in a slurry.

Jim, do you mind sharing with us what vendor you got them from?

fyi, I had to trim a couple plastic tabs off inside the box with a razor as the boards are a slightly different shape. be prepared for that.

What will overheat first. Mine in the box or yours with shrink wrap covering the entire board including the heat sink? :-)

wonder why my switch has been removed? lol maybe ntsc is the default without the switch??

took shrink wrap off. I'm mounting it in the white plastic box from my other one. Easier to velcro.

Here is the Kopterworx version on the left vs the ebay one (on the right) I got that doesn't work. Notice the boards are totally different. The one with the 2 capacitors and the heat sink is the one that you want. I plugged it in. It works.