New build AD-4 HL

AIRCONROB

Member
After a lot of thinking, pain and cutting frames from scratch, I've decided to treat myself to a Droidworx AD-4 HL. As I like to look and get my hands on things before I purchase, I took a trip to Geoff at quadcopters.co.uk as its only an hour away from me.
The guy was very helpfull, that to my budget as i have only just got into the MR's we decided after some lunch and a drive out on this,

Droidworx AD-4 HL
1x DJI Wookong
4x AXI 2814/22 heavy lift which i already have 6 of
4x 30 amp esc
4x 13x6.5 props
AV130 camera gimbal
2x 4s 5000 lipos
5.8Ghz 500mw video transmitter
Gopro Hero 2

All very nice, just starting the build and looking through the Droidworx site on build instructions which is good for building the rig up, but just wondering if any of you good guys out there have any pics on where the best possition for all the electrics should be would be very appreciated, even though i spent all afternoon at Geoffs seeing all his rigs, i didn't take note of his builds as i was too exited on getting back home with the new toy:tennis:

Cheers
Rob
 
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RTRyder

Merlin of Multirotors
After a lot of thinking, pain and cutting frames from scratch, I've decided to treat myself to a Droidworx AD-4 HL. As I like to look and get my hands on things before I purchase, I took a trip to Geoff at quadcopters.co.uk as its only an hour away from me.
The guy was very helpfull, that to my budget as i have only just got into the MR's we decided after some lunch and a drive out on this,

Droidworx AD-4 HL
1x DJI Wookong
4x AXI 2814/22 heavy lift which i already have 6 of
4x 30 amp esc
4x 13x5.6 props
AV130 camera gimbal
2x 4s 5000 lipos
5.8Ghz 500mw video transmitter
Gopro Hero 2

All very nice, just starting the build and looking through the Droidworx site on build instructions which is good for building the rig up, but just wondering if any of you good guys out there have any pics on where the best possition for all the electrics should be would be very appreciated, even though i spent all afternoon at Geoffs seeing all his rigs, i didn't take note of his builds as i was too exited on getting back home with the new toy:tennis:

Cheers
Rob

I just converted my Droidworx AD6 from MK to WKM and what I did was put the ESCs around the perimeter of the top frame plate with an open power distribution board mounted upside down just above them so the power wires just curve up a tiny bit and then are soldered directly to the board. The motor wires run down through the arms as they did when it was MK powered and then loop up over the top of the ESCs for connection. This pic is of my CineStar 6 but it's the same setup I used on the AD6...

IMG_2034a.jpg


To mount the rest of the electronics I used a centerplate from another frame mounted on standoffs where the Mk stack would normall sit. You can just cut a small square, circle, whatever from some G10 and do the same. In this pic you can see where the electronics sit through the dome, sorry I don't have any direct pics taken "under the hood" as I mistakenly formatted the memory card that had the build pics on it before I downloaded them. Sooner or later I'll go back and take a few with the cap off but this should give you the general idea...

IMG_2031a.jpg


IMG_2028a.jpg


To mount the GPS I think the best method is to make or buy a set of boom clamps an just mount to that as I did on mine. No pic of that from the AD6 but here's the same idea from the CS6...

DSC00430a.jpg


Another method is to simply mount the ESCs out on the arms with tie wraps and run the wires down the length of the arm to the motors.The ESCs will be out in the open air but I think in the case of the Droidworx frame it detracts from the looks of the finished machine. Unless you plan to fly long flights in 90 to 100 degree F heat mounting the ESCs out on the arm really isn't necessary, RC helis, cars, boats, etc. don't mount the ESC out in the air and they don't have any issues so no real reason to do it with a multi if the motors and ESCs are spec'd right to not overheat the components.

Ken
 

AIRCONROB

Member
Thanks for the pics Ken, that looks like a nice bit of kit, and very tidy build too. I'm just trying to make this build a bit better that my previous one.

View attachment 2250From this
View attachment 2251To this.
But there isn't as much room on the AD-4 as was on that, I'm just trying to get the build neat and tidy.
 

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robvree

Member
Hey Rob, nice name. :tennis:

I'm currently working an AD-4 HL build with a DJI as well. I totally agree with Ken that mounting the ESC's on the booms really detracts from the looks of the Droidworx frames so I decided to mount them all in-between the 2 center plates with the power wires facing the center. Just like in Ken's build, the power wires will be soldered directly to a power distribution board that is mounted on standoffs. The motor wires are routed inside the booms. Another plate will be mounted on standoffs above the power distribution board and that will hold the DJI GPS. I want to keep the GPS inside the dome instead of out on one of the booms so it's not mounted offset due to the quad configuration. I'm hoping the plate I use to mount the GPS will act as a shield to prevent interference from the other electronics. With everything mounted this way, it leaves plenty of room on the top of the center plate to mount the MC, RX, telemetry, etc. Right now I think I will mount the IMU on the bottom of the center plate (not sure yet).

For props I'm planning on using APC 12x3.8. According to ecalc the 13x6.5 are too much. What kind of props are the 13x5.6 you picked up?

For batteries I'm going to first compare a couple brands (quadropower and genesis). I ruled out Thunderpower and Maxamps due to their costs. I'm going to start with 2 x 6200 Quadropower packs (total weight 1160g - $300) and 2 x 6000 Genesis packs (Total weight 1220g - $166). I'll probably stick with the Genesis packs even though they are a little heavier and a little less capacity but half the cost.

I'm going to be covering all motor wires and the AV130 servo wires with heat shrink fabric. http://www.buyheatshrink.com/heatshrinktubing/heat-shrink-fabric.htm

I'll also be using a castle BEC (set to 6.5V) to power the servos.

Good luck with your build. I look forward to hearing more about your progress.


Cheers!
Rob
 
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RTRyder

Merlin of Multirotors
I've been flying the AD6 using a pair of these, they've worked exceptionally well... http://www.hobbypartz.com/77p-sl5000-4s1p-20c-4444.html with an AV130 and Sony NEX 5N underneath I get an easy 12 plus minutes flight time, I've gone as long as 14 minutes but thats discharging a bit more than I like.

I also used them on the CS6 at first until I got a few of these... http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/...lightmax_8000mAh_4S1P_30C_USA_Warehouse_.html I've flown the AD6 using the 8000 but only with a single one attached, a pair is quite a bit of weight and they are significantly bigger than the 5000.

I'm using Graupner 11 x 5 props on the AD6, I've also tried the APC 11 x 4.7 slow flyer and 12 x 3.8, it's a bit smoother on the Graupners and the diffeernce in flight times is insignificant. I think you'll find the 13 inch props to be more than the AD4 needs unless you've got a LOT of additional weight to carry.

Ken

P.S. if you've flown a Hoverfly setup you'll be totally in love with the WKM, none of the quirkiness of the H/F and the WKM functions work so much better. I've got one of the original H/F Pro green boards gathering dust on the bench, I got tired of waiting for them to get the basics working right and moved on.
 
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AIRCONROB

Member
Hi Rob, when you say the props 13x6.5 are too much, What do you mean by that? are they too big for quad or too much for motors?

Cheers
Rob
 

AIRCONROB

Member
I've been flying the AD6 using a pair of these, they've worked exceptionally well... http://www.hobbypartz.com/77p-sl5000-4s1p-20c-4444.html with an AV130 and Sony NEX 5N underneath I get an easy 12 plus minutes flight time, I've gone as long as 14 minutes but thats discharging a bit more than I like.

I also used them on the CS6 at first until I got a few of these... http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/...lightmax_8000mAh_4S1P_30C_USA_Warehouse_.html I've flown the AD6 using the 8000 but only with a single one attached, a pair is quite a bit of weight and they are significantly bigger than the 5000.

I'm using Graupner 11 x 5 props on the AD6, I've also tried the APC 11 x 4.7 slow flyer and 12 x 3.8, it's a bit smoother on the Graupners and the diffeernce in flight times is insignificant. I think you'll find the 13 inch props to be more than the AD4 needs unless you've got a LOT of additional weight to carry.

Ken

P.S. if you've flown a Hoverfly setup you'll be totally in love with the WKM, none of the quirkiness of the H/F and the WKM functions work so much better. I've got one of the original H/F Pro green boards gathering dust on the bench, I got tired of waiting for them to get the basics working right and moved on.
Me too Ken I suffered waiting over 3 months for them to sort out the system, got racked off listening to the crap that the team were posting everyday. And with me being too impetient, i quickly shifted them.
View attachment 2252View attachment 2253So I know where you're coming from.
Cheers
Rob
 

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AIRCONROB

Member
Too much for my Avroto motors.

View attachment 3508
Rob Rob Rob, I'm using AXI 2814/22 heavy lift. On 4s Li-Po batteries with 13"x6.5" propellers, this motor generates approximately 650g of thrust at 4.8A. This equates to a very efficient hover! You're on same par as me, i miss things out when i'm reading. I prefer looking at pics coz i'm crap at reading. But I like your style, where did you get that program from to work out power setups of motors, looks very professional.
Cheers
Rob
 
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robvree

Member
Rob Rob Rob, I'm using AXI 2814/22 heavy lift. On 4s Li-Po batteries with 13"x6.5" propellers, this motor generates approximately 650g of thrust at 4.8A. This equates to a very efficient hover! You're on same par as me, i miss things out when i'm reading. I prefer looking at pics coz i'm crap at reading. But I like your style, where did you get that program from to work out power setups of motors, looks very professional.
Cheers
Rob

You are correct, the AXI's can handle the load better but still can go over the limit with those props. However in reality you will never hit the max. Here is the the ecalc chart for your motors and props (assuming an AUW of 3200g).
View attachment 2255


You can get to ecalc here - http://www.ecalc.ch/xcoptercalc_e.htm
 

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UAVproducts

Formerly DJIUSA
I just converted my Droidworx AD6 from MK to WKM and what I did was put the ESCs around the perimeter of the top frame plate with an open power distribution board mounted upside down just above them so the power wires just curve up a tiny bit and then are soldered directly to the board. The motor wires run down through the arms as they did when it was MK powered and then loop up over the top of the ESCs for connection. This pic is of my CineStar 6 but it's the same setup I used on the AD6...

IMG_2034a.jpg


To mount the rest of the electronics I used a centerplate from another frame mounted on standoffs where the Mk stack would normall sit. You can just cut a small square, circle, whatever from some G10 and do the same. In this pic you can see where the electronics sit through the dome, sorry I don't have any direct pics taken "under the hood" as I mistakenly formatted the memory card that had the build pics on it before I downloaded them. Sooner or later I'll go back and take a few with the cap off but this should give you the general idea...

IMG_2031a.jpg


IMG_2028a.jpg


To mount the GPS I think the best method is to make or buy a set of boom clamps an just mount to that as I did on mine. No pic of that from the AD6 but here's the same idea from the CS6...

DSC00430a.jpg


Another method is to simply mount the ESCs out on the arms with tie wraps and run the wires down the length of the arm to the motors.The ESCs will be out in the open air but I think in the case of the Droidworx frame it detracts from the looks of the finished machine. Unless you plan to fly long flights in 90 to 100 degree F heat mounting the ESCs out on the arm really isn't necessary, RC helis, cars, boats, etc. don't mount the ESC out in the air and they don't have any issues so no real reason to do it with a multi if the motors and ESCs are spec'd right to not overheat the components.

Ken

What power distribution board is that.

Love the GPS mount. :)
 

AIRCONROB

Member
I'v got to say, yes that GPS mount is very sexy, would love one but i'm running a Quad in X mode so i have to do some rethinking.
 



AIRCONROB

Member
Wow, I'm lost for choices, what I have in mind might be a little bit tricky but if i can achieve it this way, i will be a very happy chappy.
View attachment 2256No i'm not that cleather, its not a cad file, just pinched my kids school pen
I must say the Droidworx AD-4 is a nice bit of kit, but for the price of it I was a bit disapointed on a couple of things like, motor mount boots very plastic looking, Booms and landing gear rail tubes in mat finish as for the rest of the carbon is nice and glossy, so while i was making our sunday roast, i kept sneacking away to knock these out.
View attachment 2257View attachment 2258View attachment 2259
Yes I know, some might think that I'm nutts with bling, but I like to try my best to make my things look good.
 

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Droider

Drone Enthusiast
Eh Up Rob.. them engin mount boots look better than the ones I am using.. guess the LED's are from our favourite high street motor store!

Where did you get the gold prop retainers from?

Whats all the ubecs for?

Dave
 


AIRCONROB

Member
Eh Up Rob.. them engin mount boots look better than the ones I am using.. guess the LED's are from our favourite high street motor store!

Where did you get the gold prop retainers from?

Whats all the ubecs for?


The led's are out of an old scale helli, didn't want to spoil the mount boots too much as i've yet to put the bling lighting on yet aswell as the flood lights lol.

The gold prop retainers it was only by pure luck coz i was looking for some everywhere because the AXI threads are too course for the standard ones we have in local stores appart from Steve webb models, they had six in for someone who didn't collect them, so they were the odball ones that they found for me to fit those AXI's.

As goes for the u-becs, one is for the gimbal, one for RX, and the other for the flood lights.
 

AIRCONROB

Member
There is one thing that i'm after and that is CLEAR heat shrink wrapping to go over the booms, if anybody knows where I can get hod of some.

Cheers
Rob
 


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