Mikrokopter MK octo

C

crcr

Member
Macsgrafs said:
nice & simple I see Craig :)
I made a full size coard from bare PCB bought from maplins. I drew 5 circles with a compass & now have a circular positive & negative rail & all ESC's are soldered direct. Here's a photo taken 2 mins ago:-

View attachment 2644

Where are you to Craig?

Regards
Ross
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Looks good Ross, If you are powering the converter board from an external source like the FC, you only need the signal wire from the ESC. I have cut the others off and have also even cut the other pins off the converter board.

I'm in NZ

Cheers
Craig
 

Macsgrafs

Macsgrafs

Active Member
crcr said:
Hey Ross,

Sounds like you are just about there!!

Make sure all your props are OFF until you are sure everything is working as it should.

I just thought of something. If you are powering the converter board from the FC that same as me, I HIGHLY reccommend that you glue this to the FC. Also make sure the C&D lines can't come loose. I cut myself up pretty bad recently when the converter power plug to the FC came loose when doing the ACC calibration and when I pushed it back on it started up full throttle. I have now used a dab of hot-glue and glued the servo plug to the FC board so this won't happen. which I highly reccommend you do the same. TC said he would change the firmware so this can't happen, but I will now always glue it on now.

I would probably upgrade to the .86 firmware if this is what you want to use. Run it through .74b MKTools until you have upgrade the boards, then you will need 0.76 MKTools.
Then you first need to set up all the channels and switches and make sure you have full throw each way and that they sit at 127 when centred.
http://www.mikrokopter.de/ucwiki/en/MK-Parameter/Channels
http://www.mikrokopter.de/ucwiki/en/MK-Parameter/Easy-SETUP

This is the start anyway

Cheers,
Craig
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Craig you're my new found hero ;) thanks mate.
My Fc to I2C-PWM is a soldered connection onto C & D & the other end is a standard futaba servo plug, which is firmly in place, but I will strap it down to make sure I dont get bitten by this octopus monster ;)

Whats the difference between 0.84 & 0.86?

I will check out these links in a mo, but again many thanks for the help, its REALLY appreciated.

Ross
 

Macsgrafs

Macsgrafs

Active Member
I was going to cut off the ESC's leads, but reading the instructions again only the first ESC uses the power lead, the others arent connected, so I left standard.
so you're in NZ, bet Rob & Lynda are on your FB friends ;)

Ross
 

C

crcr

Member
Macsgrafs said:
Whats the difference between 0.84 & 0.86?
Click to expand...

The main difference I like although haven't used it yet is the teachable carefree. There is a return to home failsafe also but I'm using Futaba so can't use the MK failsafe.

About the ESC leads, Yeah the instructions do say that, but are only required if you are using the #1 ESC to power the converter board. I thought you were going to use external power from the FC?

I have spoken to Rob and Linda many times but I don't actually have a Droidworx frame. I would love one but at the price they are it's a little on the high side for me at the moment.

Craig
 

Macsgrafs

Macsgrafs

Active Member
crcr said:
The main difference I like although haven't used it yet is the teachable carefree. There is a return to home failsafe also but I'm using Futaba so can't use the MK failsafe.

About the ESC leads, Yeah the instructions do say that, but are only required if you are using the #1 ESC to power the converter board. I thought you were going to use external power from the FC?

I have spoken to Rob and Linda many times but I don't actually have a Droidworx frame. I would love one but at the price they are it's a little on the high side for me at the moment.

Craig
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Hi Craig,

If you by Droidworx you can expect some serious customer relations. I bought the first SJ8 (CS8) they designed, they even went & got credit card processing just for me to place my order! Since I have had my octo, they have sent 2 FREE updates, including 8 new arms!!!!! Other manufacturers could do with a leaf from Droidworx's book!

Im having a few problems setting up my FC board to be honest. The channel bars (green vertical bars) are NOT in the centre & to get them there requires a serious amount of sub trimm.....is this usual for MR aircraft?

Ross
 



Droider

Droider

Drone Enthusiast
Ross.. check out Ziggys couple of set up videos on MK.us site.. they are very good in helping you setting up the initial settings..

Ill try find the links



Dave
 


Macsgrafs

Macsgrafs

Active Member
Dave, you are my saviour, thanks mate, thats really appreciated. I will sit down with a nice smoke & chill to these.
Things seem so different to heli or fixed wing setups! :)

Ross
 

Macsgrafs

Macsgrafs

Active Member
Dave, I've watched those videos 3 times now, so will see what results I can get later today.
Next is propellor choice....do I got 12 x 6 or 14 x 4.7? Wondering what differences to expect in blade sizes. I'm not after meggar fast speed, but more stability...so I suppose a larger prop size might be better? Anyone care to comment?

Ross
 

Macsgrafs

Macsgrafs

Active Member
Right, here's what I have so far.
During the koptertools motor test, ALL motors spin up(now). So I have min motor to 15 which was the motor test of 13 + 2.
I can see the green channel bars moving with each stick movement...all 3 satellite receivers are solid LED, locked.
Now I try & go to the botom right with throttle to get them to spin up...but nothing :(
Some one mentioned that I need to calibrate the gyros or whatever???...note that its just the FC2.1ME board...no GPS or Navi as yet!

Ross
 

Droider

Droider

Drone Enthusiast
Ross you will need to calibrate sensors ACC.

Make sure your copter is perfectly level.. throttle sticke up to top right and wait for the conformation beep..

Then throttle up left to calibrate Giros - you will need to do this last step everytime to change your battery.

Now your ready to go... PROPS OFF now check motors spin up by initialising motors and respond to control inputs..

When your happy with that PROPS ON.. Take it outside and away you go

Dave
 

Macsgrafs

Macsgrafs

Active Member
Droider said:
Ross you will need to calibrate sensors ACC.

Make sure your copter is perfectly level.. throttle sticke up to top right and wait for the conformation beep..

Then throttle up left to calibrate Giros - you will need to do this last step everytime to change your battery.

Now your ready to go... PROPS OFF now check motors spin up by initialising motors and respond to control inputs..

When your happy with that PROPS ON.. Take it outside and away you go

Dave
Click to expand...

Nice one Dave, will have a look at that in the morning. So evertime I plug in a new battery, its up left throttle to calibrate, then down right to turn motors on & down left to turn motors off ;)

Ross
 

C

crcr

Member
Macsgrafs said:
Nice one Dave, will have a look at that in the morning. So evertime I plug in a new battery, its up left throttle to calibrate, then down right to turn motors on & down left to turn motors off ;)

Ross
Click to expand...

Yep thats it! just make sure you do the ACC (level) calibration before you go fly.

Craig
 

Macsgrafs

Macsgrafs

Active Member
All sorted now, motors are spinning up nicely :) Im now starting to feel the fright :) :) of the 1st flight :(
Any settings you guys know that will make this thing easier for the first flight?

ross
 

O

ovdt

Member
As a pilot who has millions of crashes so far, I can easily say that, don't be afraid of flying of the copter.

If you do ACC Calibration, compass calibration correctly and the motors & props are correctly spinning, you're good to go for the first flight.

You'll be nervous with your first flight, that's understandable. What I will only say is, when the copter tries to take off from the ground, it might seem a bit unstable at the first 20-30 cm height. Ground effect is your biggest enemy at the first flight. If you give gas a a bit more, you will see how nicely she will level itself.

If you get nervous at the first few seconds, you gonna move down gas stick and try to level the copter with other sticks, and then you will probably crash.

Be sure, AH(altitude hold) is OFF before arming the copter.

After the first flight, you will be very comfortable flying it.
 

Macsgrafs

Macsgrafs

Active Member
Thanks OVDT, glad you mentioned altitude hold. I am running 0.86 firmware now :) & I see there are 2 options for ALT hold..remember I dont have GPS or NAVI, just the FC board..what should I set it to for my first flights?

you described the downwash effect I feel with my trex600 quite nicely, so I will rip her off the deck & get up to about 5ft for my first hover.

Regards
Ross
 

O

ovdt

Member
Vario Alt Hold is very useful once you learn how to use it. Just make sure you assign a two-way switch for AH function. Once you are 20 meters high, you can turn it on and see how it goes. After a few flight, of course :)

My brand new FC's pressure sensor legs were broken but I didn't realize it. After turning on AH, it fall down like a rock. So bu sure to check out pressor sensor's legs after every few flights. Just a note.

If you're flying a helicopter, no worries then :)
 

Macsgrafs

Macsgrafs

Active Member
I was going to use my gear switch, but I need that for my retractable undercart, so it will be my AUX2 switch.
thanks for the info, its appreciated & does make me wish my props were here already :)

Ross
 

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