Hobby wing platinum ESC question

Motopreserve

Drone Enthusiast
I did test everything as best I could. Admittedly I'm no scientist - but I do understand the need for methodical testing when you're that deep into an issue - especially to keep your head when the frustration level is mounting :)

I'm really looking forward to any results you have with the ESC test with longer power wires. It will be interesting to see what all the fuss is about.
 

Bartman

Welcome to MultiRotorForums.com!!
if he can prove that ESC's by the motors is ok then I have about 350 motor mounts (with built in ESC holding tab) left in the box that I'd love to sell complete with boom clamps for 3/4" tubing (or 19mm, very close to being the same)!
 

Motopreserve

Drone Enthusiast
if he can prove that ESC's by the motors is ok then I have about 350 motor mounts (with built in ESC holding tab) left in the box that I'd love to sell complete with boom clamps for 3/4" tubing (or 19mm, very close to being the same)!

Bart, did you install extra caps when you were doing your builds with your custom frame setup? The one thing that the testing may not show is the effect of time, or the additional stress put on the pre-existing caps due to the issues typically associated with NOT adding caps (heat stress, spikes etc).
 

Bartman

Welcome to MultiRotorForums.com!!
Bart, did you install extra caps when you were doing your builds with your custom frame setup? The one thing that the testing may not show is the effect of time, or the additional stress put on the pre-existing caps due to the issues typically associated with NOT adding caps (heat stress, spikes etc).

no, i didn't install extra caps in my builds. the extra caps have been recommended by Castle who happens to sell their "Cap Packs" but these are for single feed systems to a single ESC. We've got these multi-branch power systems and I think that the branches are going to absorb spikes the way the caps are meant to but i've never tested it so i can't make any guarantees. everything flies exactly the same with the ESC's by the motors and it makes for less noise by the FC and wireless video components so the idea has its merits.
 

mediaguru

Member
Probably better to move the info over here since it seems we have the same issue. There is an ornery member over in that thread :)

i was was the same way with all the tests - and as mentioned, there wasn't one thing done differently that made it work. It sorta just "worked." And then it didn't again. I could even get different motors to work by just repowering the hex. No change, first motors 2,4,5 worked, repower and then motors 1, 2, and 6 worked.

So frustrating!

Hey Motopreserve did you try with the red leads on and with them removed? Currently I have all removed as the power for any of the onboard electronics is coming directly, not through BEC on an ESC. I read in another old thread here http://www.multirotorforums.com/sho...ing-Xaircraft-FC&p=10784&viewfull=1#post10784 that it is recommended to KEEP the power leads to the SuperX.

Since I have all removed and since my setup does not work, thinking of putting them back. (I just pulled the pin and heat shrunk them).

Thoughts?

I could just go with another ESC too, but that would mean I have $240 worth of hobby-wing ESCs going to waste. I did find some 30A simonk escs at Range Video for $18 each...
 

Motopreserve

Drone Enthusiast
I did try them with and without the positive lead. I also tried giving power to the ESC (FC Side) with a BEC after soldering up a special harness just for the test. No luck either way.

I wish I had written down every test - they are all coming back to me as you all ask about them. At the time, it felt pretty exhaustive, but I'm sure there could be that one I missed (or I was hoping so). But I had personally exhausted everything I could think of, and seemed to have annoyed all the "experts" enough as well :)
 

mediaguru

Member
I did try them with and without the positive lead. I also tried giving power to the ESC (FC Side) with a BEC after soldering up a special harness just for the test. No luck either way.

I wish I had written down every test - they are all coming back to me as you all ask about them. At the time, it felt pretty exhaustive, but I'm sure there could be that one I missed (or I was hoping so). But I had personally exhausted everything I could think of, and seemed to have annoyed all the "experts" enough as well :)

I sent a note to hobby-wing and to XAircraft asking if the combo of SuperX and Hobby-Wing ESC's was not compatible. We will see if I get a response. In the mean time, I'm shopping for new ESC's. My motors are the Tarot 5008/340kv, max amps 25. Which ESC did you go with then? My current ones which don't work are 40A, but based on the motors being 25A max, would 30A work? Found some in the USA which are simonk 30A for $18 each. Not that I'm trying to go cheap or anything. I'm trying to order from the USA so I don't have to wait weeks and weeks.
 

Motopreserve

Drone Enthusiast
I had sent emails to both Drew and xaircraft directly - and got several supportive responses until I asked about obtaining a version of the older firmware. They were all helpful - but no suggestions solved my issue. I also had started a ticket with Hobby-Partz (where I bought the hobbywing ESCs) but got no luck - unless I wanted to send them back for "testing." I knew the ESCs were not faulty - because I was able to run the motors hooked directly to the RX.

The he irony is that I had already ordered the now current ESCs before I bought the hobbywing. They are from witespy (can take forever to deliver). They are 2-6S compatible, OPTO, custom tweaked to remove filtering for "pancake" style motors, and flashed with SimonK. $18/each. The reason I ordered the HW was because I panicked when reading about the SimonK issues with high pole count motors. My sunnysky 3508-580kv were listed everywhere as 28 pole!!!! Turns out they are only 14 pole - which should work fine with any SimonK FW.

So.... I ended up buying an expensive set of ESCs because of bad info, that ended up not even working. Bad scene all around :)

Ill be firing these up very shortly as I had to tear the whole hex apart. Should have a better handle on it.
 

mediaguru

Member
Looks like I may be scrapping the Hobby-Wing esc's then and saving them for a later build, if I make another bird without a SuperX... There goes $240.

I'm trying to find USA replacements. How do these look? Do I need to worry about the pancake filter you mentioned? I'm running Tarot 5008/340kv.

These are USA options, one is only a state away so shipping would be quick:

http://www.altitudehobbies.com/brus...v-brushless-multicopter-esc-w-simonk-firmware

http://www.rangevideo.com/en/esc/317-rv-ztw-spider-series-30a-opto-multicopter-esc-simonk.html
 

Motopreserve

Drone Enthusiast
The ones from range video are the same as my witespy ones. The issue would/should not be the filtering, but the SimonK firmware running high pole count motors. Despite the "pancake" design of your motor - the tarot site says they're only 14 pole - which would be considered "standard" and should not have issues with the SimonK. But then again there is so much conflicting info that I don't want to steer you wrong (see previous post about sunnysky retailers completely wrong listing of their specs).

Im in sure out hobbywing ESCs will be fine on other builds - or a new version of the superx FW perhaps???
 

mediaguru

Member
I just ordered the set of ESC's from Altitude Hobbies. They're in Denver and I'm in Salt Lake. SO hopefully the shipping will be quick. They could not guarantee these would not have the same issue but they're fairly sure they will not. They are not made by Hobby-Wing. If they do not work, they'll take them back and give me a refund. That's service. I'll report later.

Now that I'm stuck waiting for new ESC's, I guess I'll remove the old ones in advance and make sure the bird is ready for when the new ones arrive.. And if there's enough time, continue to work my Phantom vibration issues...
 

Motopreserve

Drone Enthusiast
I just ordered the set of ESC's from Altitude Hobbies. They're in Denver and I'm in Salt Lake. SO hopefully the shipping will be quick. They could not guarantee these would not have the same issue but they're fairly sure they will not. They are not made by Hobby-Wing. If they do not work, they'll take them back and give me a refund. That's service. I'll report later.

Now that I'm stuck waiting for new ESC's, I guess I'll remove the old ones in advance and make sure the bird is ready for when the new ones arrive.. And if there's enough time, continue to work my Phantom vibration issues...

good luck! Let us know how it goes.
 


mediaguru

Member
good luck! Let us know how it goes.

Hobby Wing has responded to my inquiry as to whether or not my ESCs are compatible with the SuperX. They assure me that they are. Their first suggestion:

"How about you check the throttle settings on the flight controller, whether it is in the low position, or whether it need to be reversed?"

I've seen "reverse calibration" mentioned. This is something I have not done. The SuperX manual describes the process but not what it is for. My interpretation was that it was in case the AETR was backwards but perhaps I'm mistaken.
 

Motopreserve

Drone Enthusiast
Nope - you are not mistaken. Many Tx need to have a stick (or 3) reversed to make sense with the FC you're using. The superx takes care of this for you when you do the stick calibration (if you have not done this - DO IT NOW). The manual tells you to reverse (or invert in taranis speak) certain sticks before this (see mention of futaba), but even of you don't, superx does it for you.

I don't believe this cal will solve your issue - but it's a mandatory part of the setup procedure (along with the compass cal).

I am not sure why these ESCs are not working - but I suspect that each FC shoots a signal out to the ESC telling it that the FC has signal ready to pass (I would assume the first info would be the throttle is down but ready to go) - and that signal operates at a given level, and the hobby wing is looking for this level and wishing it was higher :)

thats where the suggestion for lowering the end point comes from. But unfortunately I have tried that MANY times to no avail. There is no setting in the ESC programming that seems that it would help this issue either. But I'd be curious to see what hobby wing says.

Ultimately it it really does seem that if not changing anything about the power system other than swapping the superx for the Naza makes it work - it's a superx issue, no?
 

Top