Hello from Western Massachusetts

Motopreserve

Drone Enthusiast
Oh man. That sucks. And from just the one crash.

They weren't in stock when I ordered them - slow boat from china for me. Fortunately I had ordered an extra so I have one spare that went on.

I think I need to kick into high gear and figure out an alternative to these flimsy collet adaptors. Or I guess I could just get better at flying and avoid damage instead. :)
 

jbrumberg

Member
I had three crashes in total. One was a straight vertical drop. The last one apparently was the one that did the trick. It will fly, but that shaft is definitely slightly bent. Like you I just need to get better at flying and not crashing. The near term weather does not look good for quad build testing nor flying so the waiting for parts business will not be so bad. I probably will be getting a package tomorrow- the alternate landing gear for the H.A.L. (Timely huh), With this landing gear arrangement legs attach under the motor mounts, could provide protection for the motors, and lower the whole chassis setup and COG. Something to do while I am waiting for the replacement motor(s). We'll see. Pictures will follow.
 

Motopreserve

Drone Enthusiast
We got 4" today and it's supposed to drop to -6 degrees. I suppose now's as good a time as any for building that indoor testing rig...
 

mbowser

Member
Yep, the new snow and subzero temps are going to put a damper on the flying for a while. In the meantime, my son and I are going to cobble together a rudimentary fpv for when the weather changes. The bad news is that the fpv tx and rx are coming from China, but the good news is that I'm rapidly approaching platinum status at hobbyking :(

I seem to have an affinity for very expensive hobbies.
 

jbrumberg

Member
"I seem to have an affinity for very expensive hobbies". I resemble that remark.:)

My wife has been trying to get me to sell my 18' sailboat for years
:highly_amused: She grudgingly sees the value and utility of one of my two tractors :black_eyed: I could go on. What's the old line- "the only difference between men and boys..." Actually psychological studies have pretty much proven that in gender studies in the'60's.

The other day I cleared out an area in the snow on a relatively "flat" area with the "less disfavored" tractor for the "Quad Build Project", and I started thinking to myself that maybe just maybe I need to re-examine what I am doing here.:emmersed: I need to slow this pace down a notch. It's not helping. The weather is helping slow things down at this point.

AND
so is the fact that last night I could determine that after I removed the damaged motor that the motor base was also bent; mildly bent. I am amazed I could see it, but when I started putting all the different levels on everything and started comparing levels on all the booms, motor mounts, etc. relative to the chassis and surface this particular motor mount was slightly bent. It's a replaceable part, on back order, that I am now awaiting. It's aluminum. I am going to try to bend it back to original with a little heat and "force". Meanwhile I have those brand new alternate landing gear struts waiting for me at the post office for me to focus some energy.

Anything to avoid the real work around this place. :)
 

RTRyder

Merlin of Multirotors
It's not enough that I have one expensive hobby, I have several ;)

The RC stuff has morphed from airplanes to cars to monster trucks to heli's, and now multirotors. That transition has literally taken decades to get to where I am now and I don't even want to think about the $ involved.

For an even longer time I've had a serious addiction to motorcycles that started when I was given rides on one by my uncle way back when my age was in the single digits. This summer marks 42 years of motorcycle ownership and riding for me, I had my first "real" motorcycle at 15 and an M/C license before a car license. Currently have 5 in the garage and not a Harley to seen among them, my oldest is a 1957 Norton ES2 and the newest is a 2007 BMW R1200 RT, hence the RTRYder name I use across multiple forums.

Add to that my current fascination with 3D printing and the pair of printers I have, one purchased assembled and ready to print, the second scratch built from parts printed on the first and open source plans published on the Internet.

Oh, and there's the photography thing I've dabbled in off and on since high school...

Good thing I have an understanding wife ( who has two motorcycles of her own and plenty of womanly expensive hobbies )

I can always find a way to justify whatever, the printer thing started with a desire to be able to do rapid prototyping of multirotor parts and I've certainly done lots of that so far!

Anyway, for those of you struggling with PID tuning, here's a little guide I found on the 'net some time ago and it has helped me greatly when I've managed to take a decent flying Multiwii quad and turn it into a cantankerous ill handling beast that barely wants to stay in the air...

************************************************

PID tuning theory and configuration guide for MultiWii


P is the dominant part of PID and gets you in the ballpark for good flight characteristics.


Basic PID Tuning - on the ground

Set PID to the designers default recommended settings
Hold the MulitiRotor securely and safely in the air
Increase throttle to the hover point where it starts to feel light
Try to lean the MultiRotor down onto each motor axis
You should feel a reaction against your pressure for each axis.
Change P until it is difficult to move against the reaction. Without stabilization you will feel it allow you to move over a period of time. That is OK
Now try rocking the MultiRotor. Increase P until it starts to oscillate and then reduce a touch.
Repeat for Yaw Axis.

Your settings should now be suitable for flight tuning.


Advanced Tuning - understanding impact of P, I and D

P - proportional

P provides a proportional amount of corrective force based upon the angle of error from desired position. The larger the deviation, the larger the corrective force.

A higher P value will create a stronger force to return to desired position.
If the P value is too high, on the return to initial position, it will overshoot and then opposite force is needed to compensate. This creates an oscillating effect until stability is eventually reached or in severe cases, the overshoot becomes amplified and the multirotor becomes completely destabilised.

Increasing value for P:
It will become more solid/stable until P is too high where it starts to oscillate and loose control
You will notice a very strong resistive force to any attempts to move the MultiRotor

Decreasing value for P:
It will start to drift in control until P is too low when it becomes very unstable.
Will be less resistive to any attempts to change orientation

Aerobatic flight: Requires a slightly higher P
Gentle smooth flight: requires a slightly lower lower P


Integral

I provides a variable amount of corrective force based upon the angle of error from desired position. The larger the deviation and / or the longer the deviation exists, the larger the corrective force. It is limited to prevent becoming excessively high.

A higher I will increase the heading hold capability

Increasing value for I:
Increase the ability to hold overall position, reduce drift due to unbalanced frames etc

Decreasing value for I:
Will improve reaction to changes, but increase drift and reduce ability to hold position

Aerobatic flight:
Gentle smooth flight:
AP: Requires a slightly lower I to minimise wobbles / jitter


D - this moderates the speed at which the MultiRotor is returned to its original position.
A lower D will mean the MultiRotor will snap back to its initial position very quickly

Increasing value for D:
Dampens changes. Slower to react to fast changes

Decreasing value for D:
Less dampening to changes. Reacts faster to changes

Aerobatic flight: Lower D
Gentle smooth flight: Increase D


Advanced Tuning - practical implementation


For Aerobatic flying:
Increase value for P until oscillations start, then back of slightly
Change value for I until until wobble is unacceptable, then decrease slightly
Decrease value for D until recovery from dramatic control changes results in unacceptable recovery oscillations, then increase D slightly
Repeat above steps

For stable flying (RC):
Increase value for P until oscillations start, then back of quite a bit
Decrease value for I until it feels too loose /unstable then increase slightly
Increase value for D

General guidelines:
For stable flying with less wobble / jitter ( AP / FPV):
Lower P if you have fast wobbles
Lower I if you have slow wobbles
Higher D to smooth changes

For acro flying:
Lower D to make sharper snappier movements



You will have to accept a compromise of optimal settings for stable hover and your typical mode of flying. Obviously factor it towards your most common style.


Other factors affecting PID
Taking known good PID values from an identical configuration will get you close, but bear in mind no two MultiRotors will have the same flying characteristics and the following items will have an impact on actual PID values:

Frame weight /size / material / stiffness
Motors - power / torque /momentum
Position - Motor-->motor distance
ESC / TX - power curves
Prop - diameter / pitch / material
BALANCING
Pilot skills

*************************************************************

Ken
 

Motopreserve

Drone Enthusiast
That's some great stuff RT. Not sure if I ever found that exact guide for the multiwii.

Very jealous of your Norton. It's my last name, so I MUST own one at some point :). My initial motivation to get a multirotor in the air was to film some friends riding bikes up here on the gorgeous back roads of Vermont. This state is a motorcyclists wet dream...

Are you on the ADVRider forum???
 

mbowser

Member

My wife has been trying to get me to sell my 18' sailboat for years
:highly_amused:

That's funny, I have a 17' sailboat (O'Day Daysailer) and a 35' Alberg 35 that I've been restoring for the past 4 years (www.alberg35.com). I have a serious boat addiction; I am jealous of your 2 tractors though, I have 18 acres here in Canterbury NH and no tractor to shape it to my liking.

-matt
 

RTRyder

Merlin of Multirotors
That's some great stuff RT. Not sure if I ever found that exact guide for the multiwii.

Very jealous of your Norton. It's my last name, so I MUST own one at some point :). My initial motivation to get a multirotor in the air was to film some friends riding bikes up here on the gorgeous back roads of Vermont. This state is a motorcyclists wet dream...

Are you on the ADVRider forum???

I've had a Norton thing going for years, bought my first 1971 750 Commando back in 1981 and still have it, next came the 1975 850 Commando, and then the ES2 which was a complete bare-frame restoration project that took 3 years to complete roughly 10 years ago. The ES2 has taken 1st place in every show I've ever entered it in. Unfortunately these days I just don't have the time to ride as much as I used to or would like to...

I've logged quite a few miles in VT on both my Kawi Concours and the BMW, lots of great roads and not a lot of hassle from law enforcement unlike your neighbor state to the east where they like to hide in the bushes with instant on radar.

I'm not on any M/C related forums anymore, used to be on several. Again, just not enough time to take care of all the irons in the fire and the things that keep popping up unexpectedly on the home front.

Ken
 

jbrumberg

Member
Ken A.K.A. RTRyder-thank you big time for the PID information. Back in its day the "Norton" was the "The Bike".

Matt- My boat is a Newport 17. A slow, "stable" micro-cruising tub. I can get it to plane (in the right conditions) which to you moto guys is ~12mph, pretty slow. Very similar to the O'Day 17. I rebuilt it from the bottom up. The only real thing original is the swing keel, mast , boom, tiller, and 4:1 fiddle block main sheet setup.

:victorious::triumphant:Well I surprised myself and with the help of an old spare aluminum sailboat spreader which I used as a cheater bar, I was able to bend that metal motor plate essentially back to spec's:triumphant::victorious:. All the level bubbles are essentially within the lines no matter which way I spin the quad around. So now I have a spare on order. My next set of tests should be interesting.

Now I have to go to the post office :eek:nthego:
 

Motopreserve

Drone Enthusiast
Jay, were you talking about the motor mount being bent? The x shaped aluminum base plate??? Or something else (maybe something that came with the quad frame???
 

mbowser

Member
Yes, Thanks Ken, that is the type of primer I need to help understand the PID settings.
Jay, my dad owned a Newport 17 when I was a kid; I have a lot of fond memories sailing on Otis Lake (not too far from Cummington) when I was a kid.

So you were able to bend your mount or the shaft?
 

jbrumberg

Member
Scott and Matt here is the part I bent. The boom is straight- I checked. Now I have a spare on backorder ordered as well. Sooner or later I might really bend one of these beyond repair. Luckily this is pretty decent grade aluminum product material. :)

Matt- they are fun boats, and you do know my area
 
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Motopreserve

Drone Enthusiast
Right. That mount is a nice solid piece. The mounts on the x650f are made of glass composite. If they "bend" - they are broken already! I ordered a few sets of extras as well, but that is in the order from China, so I will probably receive them sometime next Spring... :)

Ironically, we have been speaking about motorcycles. I orered a few parts from China for my bikes - and was shocked at how quickly they arrived in the mail. Not quite sure why Hobby King is so slow. I haven't tried any of the other hobby companies from over there, but HK is making this process painful...
 

mbowser

Member
Ah ok, I see what your talking about now. On the X650f frame that mount is a composite (fiberglass) so if it hits hard enough it will break not bend. I just ordered another batch of stuff the other night, I should have ordered some replacement mounts as well...
 

jbrumberg

Member
Watch the CF fiber and your antennas. CF is "opaque" to radio signals particularly the 2.4GHz frequency according to some guy at RCG. That info seems valid based on the caveats I have seen with some of the Rx sales/promotional literature, and from what I could gather from my research into this stuff.

I have had good luck with Banggood almost all the time. I have to say they replaced a defective (once proven) FS TH9XB Tx at no cost to me in a responsive manner. Excellent everything with that situation.

HK is the only real game at the moment. They are changing their business model and practices, but slowly. They really have no incentives to do so as there is now real competition at this point. Their day of reckoning will come. They have a lot of angry consumers and former consumers who would love to find a quicker and better inventoried supplier. I am a ***** when it comes down to this. I really have to be angry to refuse to not deal with a business... It happens.
 

Motopreserve

Drone Enthusiast
Hey jay. Wuld you say the RF interference applies to glass fiber as well? Or just CF??? mbowser and I are dealing with glass - nothing as fancy as the CF that seems so popular n some of the high-end frames these days....

I'm hoping that my chopstick mod gives me enough distance regardless of materials causing interference - but always better safe than sorry.
 

jbrumberg

Member
You're are OK with the chop sticks. I really like your "array". I had all kinds of UHF-VHF rotor setups on our roof to try to get TV around here back before the satellite era. I do not know about "plain" fiberglass. There is some decent info buried in fixed wing aircraft sites. Maybe that guy over at RCG can direct me to some decent info. I like to research stuff out.... I am retired and more free time than a lot of folks.... and I like to avoid personal labor around here.
 

Motopreserve

Drone Enthusiast
I have just been reading some about the interference issues. It's strange to me that some people talk about wrapping power lines in aluminum foil - but other people talk about the negative interference issues created by aluminum. Everyone seems to agree that the glass fiber (G10?) is the best route to avoid interference.

I have been flirting with the idea of scratch-building a craft from aluminum (since I have a metal shop) - but this issue makes it more daunting. I want to build a H-Quad style frame for FPV and filming from the air. The key seemed to be making it so that the motors were symmetrical, unlike many of the H-Quad frames out there. That way the FC doesn't work as hard, and to bring it back around to the PID issues, it's supposed to be MUCH easier to tune if all motors are equidistant from the center/FC.

Great! More to research...
 


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