Photohigher AV200 PRO, Video Vibrations ?
- Thread starter BorisS
- Start date
Hi,
I am having problems with my roll servo on the AV200. I have it hooked up to an MK flight control for stabalization.
At first I could easy calibrate it with moving the potentiometer a bit.
The problem is that I can not fit the Poteniometer tight enough again, and also it seems to have made the servo behave crazy. When I plug in the gimball the roll servo goes full right until it binds everything up.
This was also in the beginning, and then I could easy get it in the middle with moving the potentiometer a bit, but this does not work anymore..
Potentiometer broken ? After 2 flight ? (Those 2 were ok, but had some small problems with MK, so made 1 flight with cables of Av-200 loose, to be sure they were not coming from the av-200)
Any help with this would be appreciated.
I am having problems with my roll servo on the AV200. I have it hooked up to an MK flight control for stabalization.
At first I could easy calibrate it with moving the potentiometer a bit.
The problem is that I can not fit the Poteniometer tight enough again, and also it seems to have made the servo behave crazy. When I plug in the gimball the roll servo goes full right until it binds everything up.
This was also in the beginning, and then I could easy get it in the middle with moving the potentiometer a bit, but this does not work anymore..
Potentiometer broken ? After 2 flight ? (Those 2 were ok, but had some small problems with MK, so made 1 flight with cables of Av-200 loose, to be sure they were not coming from the av-200)
Any help with this would be appreciated.
BorisS
Drone Enthusiast
Hi Jappie 911,
try to loosen both the potentiometer and the Servos from the main big tooth wheel arch, so there is no more contact. Push the potentiometer up and also push the servos up. Than calibrate the FC so the servos start acting. The servo is probably going to spin in one direction. With you fingers start turning the potentiometers tooth wheel until the servos stops turning and its stable again. If it didnt work in one direct turn the tooth wheel of the po.i in the other direction. Try both direction until you cant turn the pot. any further.
If that dosent work check your cables on the poti and servos if they really communicate. Why your pot. cant be tightened anymore i cant tell you maybe you can make a picture.
Boris
try to loosen both the potentiometer and the Servos from the main big tooth wheel arch, so there is no more contact. Push the potentiometer up and also push the servos up. Than calibrate the FC so the servos start acting. The servo is probably going to spin in one direction. With you fingers start turning the potentiometers tooth wheel until the servos stops turning and its stable again. If it didnt work in one direct turn the tooth wheel of the po.i in the other direction. Try both direction until you cant turn the pot. any further.
If that dosent work check your cables on the poti and servos if they really communicate. Why your pot. cant be tightened anymore i cant tell you maybe you can make a picture.
Boris
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BorisS
Drone Enthusiast
little update. I also notice that i have a stability issues with the big toothed belt wheel on the nick axis.
The belt wheel and the ball bearing in the Arch once been fixed never really gave me a lot of stability. I always had the feeling the actaul ball bearing moves back and loosen over time. The actual potentiometer screwed on from behind didnt make a difference.
So i stuck the ball bearing on a other thin plastic washer so its not in direct contact with the belt wheel anymore and i but one more trust bearing between the ball belt wheel and the arch. Lets see what the next tests bring, but it feels more stable in my hands now.
Boris
The belt wheel and the ball bearing in the Arch once been fixed never really gave me a lot of stability. I always had the feeling the actaul ball bearing moves back and loosen over time. The actual potentiometer screwed on from behind didnt make a difference.
So i stuck the ball bearing on a other thin plastic washer so its not in direct contact with the belt wheel anymore and i but one more trust bearing between the ball belt wheel and the arch. Lets see what the next tests bring, but it feels more stable in my hands now.
Boris
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I am (close to) speechless! How do they expect to support a large timing pulley on a bearing that's a push-fit into a piddly little 2mm G10 plate? It's shameful! Timing belts need to be tensioned to operate smoothly - any amount of tension applied to that belt is simply going to pull the pulley out of true. Any semi-competent engineer would see that!
The more I read about these products, the angrier I get! I've tried to be restrained because I realise you guys have spent serious money and I don't want to be discouraging. But there's a limit! You pay out significant amounts of money (which, in any other field, would buy you well-engineered, quality products) and all you get is a bag of bits with no instructions! When you finally figure out how to bolt it all together you find that the thing is so badly designed that there's no way it could ever perform properly. Shameful! These "manufacturers" are having a laugh - at our expense!
I've just this morning read another "tale of woe" (about a PS1 product) on another forum. These are not "isolated incidents" - this is across the board, only we don't hear about the majority (for a variety of reasons). Boris, you've documented your trials and tribulations well here - you have my full sympathy: it must be hugely frustrating.
I'm currently designing my own frame/mount and I can tell you that my "bill of materials" is about the same as what these "manufactured" items cost - partly because I'm buying all the "bits" at retail, but mostly because I'm designing it "properly". In many cases the "right" way to do something is, without doubt, more expensive. But that's no excuse for these so-called "manufacturers": they are currently grossly overcharging for what they give you, whereas what they should be doing is designing them properly and then using series production to bring their manufacturing price down, i.e. the current prices are about right for the market IMO, but what's delivered for that price is shocking!
Sorry to rant - I realise this is completely useless to you. Just had to get if off my chest!
The more I read about these products, the angrier I get! I've tried to be restrained because I realise you guys have spent serious money and I don't want to be discouraging. But there's a limit! You pay out significant amounts of money (which, in any other field, would buy you well-engineered, quality products) and all you get is a bag of bits with no instructions! When you finally figure out how to bolt it all together you find that the thing is so badly designed that there's no way it could ever perform properly. Shameful! These "manufacturers" are having a laugh - at our expense!
I've just this morning read another "tale of woe" (about a PS1 product) on another forum. These are not "isolated incidents" - this is across the board, only we don't hear about the majority (for a variety of reasons). Boris, you've documented your trials and tribulations well here - you have my full sympathy: it must be hugely frustrating.
I'm currently designing my own frame/mount and I can tell you that my "bill of materials" is about the same as what these "manufactured" items cost - partly because I'm buying all the "bits" at retail, but mostly because I'm designing it "properly". In many cases the "right" way to do something is, without doubt, more expensive. But that's no excuse for these so-called "manufacturers": they are currently grossly overcharging for what they give you, whereas what they should be doing is designing them properly and then using series production to bring their manufacturing price down, i.e. the current prices are about right for the market IMO, but what's delivered for that price is shocking!
Sorry to rant - I realise this is completely useless to you. Just had to get if off my chest!
BorisS
Drone Enthusiast
Yeah well i am coming to an end with this. Maybe still different servos 7.4v to give it a try. Picloc x3 will be installed and I will just focus on postproduction and thats it. Time to actually produce something and stop testing. Concerning my new built i think i am going to buy the cheapest camera mount out there with nick only for photo shooting, while filming the thing will be strapped down again. But i totally agree jes. Around 800 Euros for such products is quite disturbing, even more if you consider the customer service, no documentation, not even the resellers are informed about things like a support plate once introduced. Ah whatever learned my lesson.
The problem is in general to buy one of these mounts. I don't trust these fancy marketing vids anymore of how good the setup works. Before i don't see a clean 1080p vid from the mount and a detailed list and drawing which components are used and how they work together its a no buy for me.
Looking forward to see what you are producing jes !
Boris
The problem is in general to buy one of these mounts. I don't trust these fancy marketing vids anymore of how good the setup works. Before i don't see a clean 1080p vid from the mount and a detailed list and drawing which components are used and how they work together its a no buy for me.
Looking forward to see what you are producing jes !
Boris
tahoelight
Member
I have not contributed to this forum much, but I will let everyone know that I am going through all of the same pains as Boris. I just realized today I was missing the washer on the tilt axis. I find that there is tons of slop in the way the AV200 mounts to a multi-rotor frame plate. My tilt axis is very wobbly and I have not figured out how to fix it. My large gear also moves like Boris showed. On almost every paid shoot I do with the AV200, I end up taping it all in place and unplugging the stabilization system so I can get some usable footage. I also suffer from the slow roll that I have heard others discuss. I have a Picloc 3x on order so hope it can help a bit.
BorisS
Drone Enthusiast
Weeks since i could fly and test the last changes i did to the AV 200, but i also got the 130 AV now on my DJI HEXA (didt really see any other options) think i went a little overboard with the silicon. Certainly isolated from the vibrations now if any get to it. But at the same time the whole thing got pretty wobbly. Lets see how it performs. 
Picloc is also on its way and i am going to test the DJI stabilization.
View attachment 939View attachment 938
Picloc is also on its way and i am going to test the DJI stabilization.View attachment 939View attachment 938
Attachments
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Weeks since i could fly and test the last changes i did to the AV 200, but i also got the 130 AV now on my DJI HEXA (didt really see any other options) think i went a little overboard with the silicon. Certainly isolated from the vibrations now if any get to it. But at the same time the whole thing got pretty wobbly. Lets see how it performs.
I have the same landing gear setup with the GoPro mount Coptersky sells as well. From the one or two test flights I did with it it seems that the mounting system is a bit too soft as there is a fair amount of camera sway visible in the video recordings. Once I get the WKM Y6 dialed in I plan to put this setup under it to see how well it does or doesn't work and also try it with the Avertical View 2 axis mount I had under my AD6.
I think the trick is to get just the right stiffness of the isolation mounts to match the weight they're supporting and that will take a handful of isolation bushings with different ratings plus a bunch of spare time. Another thing that may help is to use an RC car shock absorber to steady the mount a bit more in the horizontal plane where most of the mounting sway occurs, I have plenty of those to choose from around here and may give it go if I can't elimiate the sway by any other method.
Here's the Y6 when I did a test fit with the Coptersky gear...
Ken
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