Tarot IronMan 1000

jhardway

Member
this is the start of the build thread and the images are coming from a post I put on the general multirotor discussion section the other day. Over all I am in the midst of putting it all together, I have most of the components, and now its just a matter of laying it out.

To begin I am very satisfied with the frame, it very rigid, stiff and strong, while being very light. As I am putting this together I am also seeing there are a few challenges in the layout of all the electronics It will take to get up to par. With that said for the size, material, and cuts of carbon fiber. I am amazed in how well it all goes together, and for what I may call challenges in the long run are all very solvable.

As I start I will be updating my post along the way, if anyone has any input, questions, or advice please feel free to tap in I welcome the participation.

View attachment 10405View attachment 10406View attachment 10407View attachment 10408View attachment 10409View attachment 10410View attachment 10411View attachment 10412

cheers all Jack
 

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rcmike

Member
Here is mine. I went with 700kv Sunnysky motors, F40a ESCs, Wookong M, and a Cinnestar gimbal controlled by an RSGS. I just got it done last week and took it out this weekend for some filming practice. The wind was blowing like crazy so I wasn't expecting much, especially since I haven't had much time for testing. It turned out okay though.
4103d9e621ba76011e2903bd17194c4f_zps59efce6d.jpg

 
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jhardway

Member
over all its going together well, I came across two things that had me wondering. the motor mounts did not seem like they were going to fit but after looking at the one page assembly guide I was able to figure it out, the second thing is the realestate for the the ESC's, I been thinking about putting them inside the frame and I have two ways of putting them together. One is to run the motor wires down the boom into the center hub, if I do that then one of the issues I am having is that the motor wires are literally less then a quarter inch to short. I am thinking of just extending them to run the wires to the ESC without putting to much stress on them like I feel what is happening right now,

The other way I am thinking about is running the wires down the bottom of the outside of the booms, if I do it that way then I can truely make so if I wanted to break down the frame and travel it, I could do it in a matter of 5 minutes while keeping the motors on. Not sure which way at this time but right not I am in favor extending the motor leads by the inch.

Nice build Mike, I am thinking out about the gimbal at this time, Tarot is supposedly coming out with there's over the next week.

Here are a few images, of where I am, I'll will have more in a few days.

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cheers
 

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jhardway

Member
hey guys just a quick update.

I have been pretty busy with a lot of things but where I am with the copter is still working out the wiring. As I stated the build is pretty straight forward and I am very satisfied with the frame and its strength. The one thing I have run into is that if I want to make it clean by putting the ESC's in the frame then I have to extend my motor leads/bullet point by 3cm's.

I am in the midst of doing that, while adding connectors to the power side of the ESC's.

Heading out of town to SO FLA this week for some photo work, so I expect not to get back on it until the week after Easter.

Cheers all
 


rcmike

Member
So far I really like the motors. They seem to be balanced well and have plenty of power for what I'm doing. They are also pretty cool after flight. I don't know how much it will lift. The most I have lifted with it so far is a Canon 5D and it did that very easily.
 



kemmy

Member
Here is mine. I went with 700kv Sunnysky motors, F40a ESCs, Wookong M, and a Cinnestar gimbal controlled by an RSGS. I just got it done last week and took it out this weekend for some filming practice. The wind was blowing like crazy so I wasn't expecting much, especially since I haven't had much time for testing. It turned out okay though.



Hi there. How easy ( or hard :) was it to mount the Cinestar gimbal to your Iron Man frame ? I'm going to build a system based on Iron Man and I want to use a CS gimbal too. Did you use its original mounting plate ? or did you do some DIY ?. Oh btw is that a 2 or 3 axis gimbal ? thx
 
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jhardway

Member
Sorry to all, I have not posted on this thread for a while, I have been pretty caught up with life things, I am hoping to pick it up and over the next few days have some video of my copter flying, Right now I have it ready to fly as best as I can, I have done all the ground testing and setting up, now with all that out of the way its just a matter of stepping outside and see how it goes.

I add some photos I took earlier today so here it is.

cheers Jack View attachment 11594View attachment 11595View attachment 11596
 

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jhardway

Member
first flight, Not something to celebrate yet. I did get up and did some flying however I am having a problems with it oscillating, not sure why, I then threw the gains on to a slider and found them best around 210 210 190 160. At time it stabilizes but at times it starts getting very aggravated, at times when I start to move it will do fine or again it get aggravated.

I moved the C.G up from -2 for where the IMU is sitting at, to 0, mainly because the copter is light and the battery sitting on top, the would seem to make a normal C.G from mid area come of some from the frame center point. Over all it flew not as well and I was now finding when the oscillating started it was worst then the previous flight. My next move is to move C.G down to -4 and see how that will go.

There are a few things I am wondering, is the the copter with 330kv motors and 14inch props having problems because it just to much, and the corrections are over whelming the copter? is not having anything like the gimbal weight like projected under the copter making the C.G more in a normal area also something that could cause some of the issue?

Will be working on it over the next week or two and will keep posting.
 

jhardway

Member
So after going over what I did for set up I believe some or all my problem may be related to calibrating the digital compass (me just not thinking about it until re going over the setup phase in my head)

Here it the vid of the first lift off flight and what I am talking only showed it head for a short time around the 22 second mark and a lot more during the other fights I did. If any one has had this problem, being the calibration or something similar, let me know what you did to correct it, I would appreciate it.



Before having this FC on the frame I brought over from my hex, If I look at the IMU/GPS locations, I moved the IMU over a -3cm and the GPS up 12cm, even though I made the correction in the software set up I did not do a physical re calibration (360 rotation on the Horizontal plane, 360 on the vertical plane)

I will let you know how it works out, but I will not be able to do so until a few days, we are having some winds over 10kts so I will wait it out before lifting it up.

Hope all have a good weekend.
 
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jhardway

Member
Teco

if I say none, would that be a bad answer ??? I actually have a otco all in one power cable wired together and have used it on another octo in the past, I did not have any problems then.

However with that said I have a gryphon power distribution board coming sometime this week. and plan to have it in line later soon after.

http://www.gryphon-mall.com/product.php?id_product=94

I am just waiting for it.
 

chopper

Member
I found that my larger machines were much happier with some additional load (weight). My experience has been that if the larger machines are too light they would tend to get wobbles as well. I suspect that the prop speed needs to be higher if you plan to keep it light. If you're not going to be adding much weight in terms of batteries or camera's, try going down a prop size or two. This may help. Also, you could keep your existing setup and simply try adding an extra battery underneath and see how your performance changes. Hope that helps.


first flight, Not something to celebrate yet. I did get up and did some flying however I am having a problems with it oscillating, not sure why, I then threw the gains on to a slider and found them best around 210 210 190 160. At time it stabilizes but at times it starts getting very aggravated, at times when I start to move it will do fine or again it get aggravated.

I moved the C.G up from -2 for where the IMU is sitting at, to 0, mainly because the copter is light and the battery sitting on top, the would seem to make a normal C.G from mid area come of some from the frame center point. Over all it flew not as well and I was now finding when the oscillating started it was worst then the previous flight. My next move is to move C.G down to -4 and see how that will go.

There are a few things I am wondering, is the the copter with 330kv motors and 14inch props having problems because it just to much, and the corrections are over whelming the copter? is not having anything like the gimbal weight like projected under the copter making the C.G more in a normal area also something that could cause some of the issue?

Will be working on it over the next week or two and will keep posting.
 

Teco

Member
Teco

if I say none, would that be a bad answer ??? I actually have a otco all in one power cable wired together and have used it on another octo in the past, I did not have any problems then.

However with that said I have a gryphon power distribution board coming sometime this week. and plan to have it in line later soon after.

http://www.gryphon-mall.com/product.php?id_product=94

I am just waiting for it.


Wow, and you never had a problem with that?
pi am building a CarbonCore 1000, octo, and having a lot of headache find a PDB, on my CC hexa I use hoverfly PDB and I love, I like the one you sent to me, looks very nice and powerful , maybe I get that,
ptake a look here and let me know what you think,

richard,

http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1636782


http://diydrones.com/forum/topics/current-sensing-safely-for-heavy-octo
 

Teco

Member
Hi there. How easy ( or hard :) was it to mount the Cinestar gimbal to your Iron Man frame ? I'm going to build a system based on Iron Man and I want to use a CS gimbal too. Did you use its original mounting plate ? or did you do some DIY ?. Oh btw is that a 2 or 3 axis gimbal ? thx

Teco

if I say none, would that be a bad answer ??? I actually have a otco all in one power cable wired together and have used it on another octo in the past, I did not have any problems then.

However with that said I have a gryphon power distribution board coming sometime this week. and plan to have it in line later soon after.

http://www.gryphon-mall.com/product.php?id_product=94

I am just waiting for it.
any news on your PDB?
 

jhardway

Member
Problem solved, I was able to add some weight and any flying issue in control I was seeing went away, I tested it by strapping a 5lbs weight to the bottom the copter, the added weight increased the props to a point where it made the FC corrections manageable.

I flew it on a signal 5300 (6s) battery, I got 5 1/2 minute out of it, I never hit the 21 volt threshold, and when I charged the battery it took in 3950 mha.

Take off weight was just under 15lbs, enough to simulate what it would weigh with an extra battery, gimbal, camera, and a little more.

with that said if everything goes as planned I am hoping for about a 12min flight time.

I am now off to the gimbal build, if I get a few minutes I will take a vid on how its flying.
 

jhardway

Member
This is the first video coming off my copter, its nothing special but its more about showing its stability with with everything up and running, (gimbal controlled by a second). Also the first time as a 2 man operation.

So the setup is a complete tarot working system, to say the frame is tarot, gimbal is Tarot, Tarot Vibration reduction, and the stabilization is Tarot. In the video you will see some sloppyness but that has everything to do with us learning to work with the gimbal (especially in the beginning of the vid), I think the more important thing to notice how there's not much vibration, the video is straight out of the camera, with no editing done other then the fade outs.
Credit also goes to the camera its a Sony HDR-710 with BOSS stabilization, the camera has what the call a floating element where its pan and tilt axis sits on gyros.

If you noticed the image is not HD and in 4by3 that is my fault I had the camera setup for shooting super 8mm conversions.

Over all this vid gives you a decent look at how the tarot system is working and how video coming off the system is looking.

 
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