T8FG LS & RS Extension: 3D Printer Project

janoots2

Member
3D Printer Project: T8FG LS & RS Extension

I have found the best way to work the tilt on my gimbal while flying, is to use the RS (I'm right handed) lever/switch on my Futaba T8FG. This way, I do not need to take my thumbs off the sticks to turn any knobs (LD or RD) and I can tilt the gimbal with my index finger while maneuvering the craft to get more dynamic shots while maintaining control at the same time. However, I wish the square knob that sticks out on the RS was longer as the rigid resistance and short knob can make it tough to move smoothly.

It seems it would be a good idea to design an extension that fits/slips completely over the square knob and extends it out further so you had more control of its positioning. Maybe even curved to fit your finger better...something like the poorly drawn illustration and cardboard cutout below seems like it would be good solution. :black_eyed:

There...now that I gave you the million dollar idea...who has a 3D printer and wants to make me one? :tennis:

Or are they already made? I couldn't find one :dejection:

BTW: Anybody know if you can change the beep on the RS to a different spot other than "middle"
 

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janoots2

Member
Here is what I ended up with rigging it. Used two layers of shrink wrap and a piece of threaded rod. Put a dab of epoxy on the end of the rod and pushed the wrap over the switch. Then shrunk the shrink wrap. Very sturdy so far and now I'm not fighting the darn thing to tilt my gimbal.

View attachment 12540
 

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Kari

Member
Sorry no photos, i did not needed it anymore. But i just rolled extension stick between my fingers and then fixed it on place and let it dry over night. I used also shrink tube to secure the connection and it was super stiff. Sugru is great stuff, it's even possible to 3d print it ;)
 

Maverick

Member
Sorry no photos, i did not needed it anymore. But i just rolled extension stick between my fingers and then fixed it on place and let it dry over night. I used also shrink tube to secure the connection and it was super stiff. Sugru is great stuff, it's even possible to 3d print it ;)

Super! Thanks!
 

How did you guys deal with the detent positions on the sliders? That was my biggest problem because of the jumps between those positions. I'm guessing I can up up the transmitter and remove whatever it is causing the detent?
 

janoots2

Member
Here are the materials I used, it's been working sweet too, nice and sturdy. Cost me just under $2 for a piece of the #10-24 threaded rod at Home Depot. I had the 3/16" - 3/32" shrink wrap already on my bench, you'll need two layers. The threads hold the shrink wrap nice and tight. I did need to add the drop of epoxy where the rod meets the knob so it didn't slide off but not a lot.

My tilt is so much smoother since I made it long enough to pull with my index finger and push with my middle finger.
 

janoots2

Member
My WKM tilt settings are slow enough that the notches don't matter, but it would make it a lot easier without them!!
 
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