Quick wiring question so I don't fry something :)

halfpress

Member
I built a separate circuit the other day that runs my lights off an independent 2S battery. It includes a PicoSwitch that lets me flip the lights on and off from my transmitter. Works great!

The goal, though, was to eventually include my digital servos for my gimbal on the circuit, too (not switched, but running off the same separate battery). The AnyVolt Micro I'm using with the lights to step down to 6v isn't going to handle two digital servos, so I'm reworking the circuit to work off a DE SportBEC instead and moving to a 3S battery. It serves the same 6v step down role as the AnyVolt, so the overall circuit isn't really much changed. I'm also adding a module to kill the circuit when the LiPo powering the gimbals and lights hits 3.5v so I don't hose any cells.

Here's my question - and it's the same regardless of the AnyVolt vs. the SportBEC: the gimbal signal wiring.

Obviously, I pull the positive and negative wires from my SportBEC to provide 6V to the Hyperion Atlas servos (yes, they are 6v-capable). I have to run the signal wire, though, back into a servo connector that goes into the Naza-M for the X and Y gimbal controls.

Is that run back to the Naza simply the one signal wire and nothing else? Or do I need ground or negative as well?

If it requires more than just the signnal wire, I just want to be certain that I don't fry the Naza and that I don't make any strange ground or other issues by having this bit of crossover between two powered circuits.

Any overall opinions on separating my flight/MC batteries from my "auxiliary" gimbal and light circuits? Seems modular and "safer" to me in some ways.

Thanks!
- Aaron
 

tstrike

pendejo grande

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halfpress

Member
Cool - thanks for the diagram. So the black / negative wire from my SportBEC can run to the Naza gimbal pins even though it's associated with a separate battery from the one feeding the Naza and the motors.

Correct?

Thanks!
- Aaron
 

I would probably just run the signal wire to the naza, kloner does not run neutrals from ESC's to Naza and that works so try it first without neutral.
regards - bruce
PS you do not have to cut any wire just remove the neutral from the plug.
 

halfpress

Member
I would probably just run the signal wire to the naza, kloner does not run neutrals from ESC's to Naza and that works so try it first without neutral.
regards - bruce
PS you do not have to cut any wire just remove the neutral from the plug.

Thanks! I'll start with just the signal and see if it works, then add the neutral if not.

- Aaron
 

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