Quadframe Foldable Pro SIXcopter - medium lift need
- Thread starter Mactadpole
- Start date
Mactadpole
Member
There is no power wire for the controller connection, just neg and signal, since they are opto escs.
AustinFPV
FPV Recon
I thought the same, and only used signal on my last quad with NAZA, but did read Pixhawk needs the ground. Then I came across this:
http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showthread.php?t=946741
My manual shows all three connected in a diagram but without further explanation. I don't suppose connecting all three could hurt if unneeded and genuinely optically isolated? I am powering the servo rail.
http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showthread.php?t=946741
My manual shows all three connected in a diagram but without further explanation. I don't suppose connecting all three could hurt if unneeded and genuinely optically isolated? I am powering the servo rail.
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Mactadpole
Member
My ESC's physically don't have a power wire. In the past with regular ESC's I just removed the red wire from all and used a separate bec to power the Pixhawk rail if needed. I found if I used one ESC's power to supply rail that ESC got really hot.
crayfellow
Member
is that this one? http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store/__76928__Ublox_Neo_M8N_GPS_with_Compass.html
I have never ordered from HK and I see that one is "International Warehouse", how long does it take?
Thanks!
What a great build, quad frames are a great Co, I wish you could take off the top plate and for the copter not to come apart after its built, and Carbonfiber would be great to, As for the Cp board, the buzz on pitch down happens to many people, I have two of them ask me how I know, 
Mactadpole
Member
Here is the one I actually ordered: http://www.ebay.com/itm/261687405991
Ordering from HK international usually just takes about 7-10 days for things I have ordered, maybe up to two weeks sometimes.
@Cameraj - thanks! Yes, very happy with this build except sorting the camera gimbal. It's windy and rainy again here in Central Texas. But we need it.
crayfellow
Member
Hi Shawn,
1. You are using 2x Multistar 6S 8000mAh. Patrick at KDE Direct recommended Tattu 6S batteries which cost twice as much, any idea what would justify the added expense? Just that the Tattu are 25C vs. Multistar 10C?
2. Probably a silly question: What is the best practice for getting the motors level given these are round booms?
1. You are using 2x Multistar 6S 8000mAh. Patrick at KDE Direct recommended Tattu 6S batteries which cost twice as much, any idea what would justify the added expense? Just that the Tattu are 25C vs. Multistar 10C?
2. Probably a silly question: What is the best practice for getting the motors level given these are round booms?
Mactadpole
Member
Here is an updated photo of the hexa with the modified battery plates. It is much more convenient and brought the COG into level with the motors.
View attachment 24648
View attachment 24648
Attachments
Mactadpole
Member
I think its all about what your budget is and how much money you have hanging under the copter. Tattu is far beyond my budget. The Multistars work great!! I have never had a battery failure and the reason why I now like to fly dual battery setups is to provide some redundancy. I'm not flying a RED or high-end Canon under my copter so I'm fine with taking the chance and can afford the loss of copter and payload. While I don't like using foreign components if I don't have too, I have also been burned by a few US-based companies too.
I use a whole bunch of small bubble levels. I place 4 on the center plate and get that level and then I have a few that I switch around between motor mounts and then get all those level. I put the copter on large nalgene bottles by the arms to simulate it "hanging" in the air and the screw lids up or down to do the leveling.
Mactadpole
Member
A little update on where I'm at with this copter.
I just switched over to the KDE triple propeller adapters with DJI 1552 props. I was very skeptical about this move but from what I had read and who it was from I just couldn't resist giving it a try. I had to do something because the 15x5.5 CF props and 16x5.4 beechwood props I had purchased were both not up to the job. The CF were utter crap and the beechwood were actually really good but I had to remove a lot of material to get the hubs balanced. I spent a lot of time balancing these props and they cause a lot of vibs still.
I must say that I am blown away by how good the KDE adapters with the DJI props are! I simply weighed the props with a high precision scale and put them together in piles of three. I then put them on the adapters and mounted them to the motors and flew. I was anticipating a loss in flight time due to increased amp draw but I actually have seen slight decrease in amp draw and increased flight times to my surprise. I can fly 27 minutes fully loaded when landing at the change to 21.6V. I could easily get a few more minutes out of it if needed. Plus it now fits in the back seat of my truck and I don't have to tie it down in the bed. The initial investment was expensive but the improvements and convenience are well worth it, plus the DJI blades are cheap if I need replacements. You pay for what you get most of the time and this is one instance where going to more expensive route really paid off!
I have also discovered the adjustments to these parameters on the Pixhawk that have really smoothed out they flying characteristics of this copter:
1. RC_FEEL_RP
2. ATC_ACCEL_RP_MAX
3. ATC_RATE_RP_MAX
See this post for some details: http://www.multi-rotor.co.uk/index.php?topic=7625.0
Weird that these parameters are so obscure in the literature. I am still tweaking them a bit but with 40% expo and some more work I feel like I might get this thing close to feeling like a HoverflyPro board! That's a big statement if you've ever flown one of those.
View attachment 24889
I just switched over to the KDE triple propeller adapters with DJI 1552 props. I was very skeptical about this move but from what I had read and who it was from I just couldn't resist giving it a try. I had to do something because the 15x5.5 CF props and 16x5.4 beechwood props I had purchased were both not up to the job. The CF were utter crap and the beechwood were actually really good but I had to remove a lot of material to get the hubs balanced. I spent a lot of time balancing these props and they cause a lot of vibs still.
I must say that I am blown away by how good the KDE adapters with the DJI props are! I simply weighed the props with a high precision scale and put them together in piles of three. I then put them on the adapters and mounted them to the motors and flew. I was anticipating a loss in flight time due to increased amp draw but I actually have seen slight decrease in amp draw and increased flight times to my surprise. I can fly 27 minutes fully loaded when landing at the change to 21.6V. I could easily get a few more minutes out of it if needed. Plus it now fits in the back seat of my truck and I don't have to tie it down in the bed. The initial investment was expensive but the improvements and convenience are well worth it, plus the DJI blades are cheap if I need replacements. You pay for what you get most of the time and this is one instance where going to more expensive route really paid off!
I have also discovered the adjustments to these parameters on the Pixhawk that have really smoothed out they flying characteristics of this copter:
1. RC_FEEL_RP
2. ATC_ACCEL_RP_MAX
3. ATC_RATE_RP_MAX
See this post for some details: http://www.multi-rotor.co.uk/index.php?topic=7625.0
Weird that these parameters are so obscure in the literature. I am still tweaking them a bit but with 40% expo and some more work I feel like I might get this thing close to feeling like a HoverflyPro board! That's a big statement if you've ever flown one of those.
View attachment 24889
Attachments
crayfellow
Member
looks and sounds awesome!! I will try to do the same once I am through testing on simple 16" props.
Foldable is an added bonus, and with 'fancy' props you're spending a lot anyway so this is sure a nice way to go.
Do they fold compactly enough for your arms to fold as tightly as they go?
Foldable is an added bonus, and with 'fancy' props you're spending a lot anyway so this is sure a nice way to go.
Do they fold compactly enough for your arms to fold as tightly as they go?
Mactadpole
Member
Good question. I folded up the props and tried to put it in the back seat of the truck and it fit. Flying just got so much easier. So I haven't checked to see what it is like with arms folded.
crayfellow
Member
Sorry if I missed this in the thread: what are you using for vtx (that is a separate flight camera, right?) and for powering the gimbal?
Mactadpole
Member
I use an older version of this 1.3ghz transmitter: http://hobbywireless.com/12-13-ghz-...1213-ghz-plug-play-transmitter-usa-p-155.html. It connects to an HDMI converter on the Nex5t I use.
The gimbal is powered via a BEC connected to power distribution board from main batts.
crayfellow
Member
Cool, thanks.
Do you use one of those generic HDMI-to-AV boards like this, then just take the signal from the RCA?
Are you using a video switch like this to run your nex and a flight camera through the same vtx?
It looks like 3x gimbal motors can draw up to 7A altogether so I had shied away from my initial plan to use a BEC. I know the CC BEC Pro can easily handle that current, but maxes out at 12.5V. I have heard gimbals are much happier on 4S equivalent voltage, but I may try the CC BEC Pro anyway.
Mactadpole
Member
Nope, this one - http://www.overskyrc.com/hdmi-to-av-sony-converter-v2-ntsc-version-p-519.html
No video switch either. I just have the nex and no flight camera. I mostly just plan a waypoint mission and watch it fly away and then turn to Mission Planner and watch were the copter is on the map until it comes back to land. Honestly I rarely hook up the VTX system.
I am using this PDB with built in regulators. I have the adjustable one set at 14V out to the gimbal. It maxes at 3A but I haven't notice any issues and I'm flying a super light camera.
Spool
New Member
Awesome build, with lots of info, thanks for sharing all this.
I got curios about this statement because when I use a datalink radio modem (xbee) to keep the communication between GS and the craft I get only about 1/4 mile range. After that I loose communication and that's it. I have tried re-positioning the antennas (on both sides) and also had the opportunity to fly in remote areas, with fewer RF pollution, but no better results.
What radio do you use as data-link?
Kind of a noob question but...
I got curios about this statement because when I use a datalink radio modem (xbee) to keep the communication between GS and the craft I get only about 1/4 mile range. After that I loose communication and that's it. I have tried re-positioning the antennas (on both sides) and also had the opportunity to fly in remote areas, with fewer RF pollution, but no better results.
What radio do you use as data-link?
Kind of a noob question but...
JoeBob
Elevation via Flatulation
Long Range telemetry Set:
http://store.jdrones.com/jD_RD900Plus_Telemetry_Bundle_p/rf900set02.htm
(Link Corrected to $250 Long Range set)
test:
http://store.jdrones.com/jD_RD900Plus_Telemetry_Bundle_p/rf900set02.htm
(Link Corrected to $250 Long Range set)
test:
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Mactadpole
Member
I use the ones from Event38: http://www.event38.com/ProductDetails.asp?ProductCode=RFD900
much longer range than SIK style linked to by JoeBob. But jDrones also has the RFD900's.
Event38 customer service is top notch!
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