Prop mounts on QCs Torx tigers etc.

[BorisS]

Suspecting that the motor mentioned in the topic are all the same anyways just having different specs, I am pretty sure they all share the same prop mounts.

For some reason its a odyssey for me to get the props mounted and really tighten them. On several mounts the threads are already damaged or the paint rubbed off. Just comparing to the axis mounts were it's no issue at all and tightened once the props are solid on the mount. Anybody else experiencing any of this issue. For example the graupner 11 x 5 there is no way for me to get the props on and having them on tight enough that I can't spin the prop by force with me hand. Questioning of there is a big difference in the material between the axi and the RC tiger mounts and thinking that this paint job on the RC tiger mounts might make them look better but not being very practical for a thread ?

Boris

 

[Bartman]

Boris,
With some props I've put two very small dabs of thick CA glue under the prop to lock it into place and prevent it from spinning. I had to do that with the Graupner props. The wood props form a small bump where the hub presses into the holes in the motor hub and those little nubs are enough to keep the props from spinning. It's a tough call because the prop shafts are aluminum and over tightening will snap them.
I hold the motor with the meat of my hand just behind my pinky and wrap my pinky and ring finger around the motor and hold the prop with my other fingers so nothing can move while i crank down on the prop nut. i don't know if the spinning motor can make a tight prop move on the hub but the small dabs of glue held well enough that I had to snap the props loose to get the off.
Regards,
Bart

 

[DucktileMedia]

why not use a precision plastic washer if its that bad? When I rebuilt a grand piano I bought thousands of these little paper shims that came in thicknesses from .001" to .125" to shim the action of the keyboard. Perhaps these are the answer? They are light, precise and have a hole a little smaller than what you need.

http://www.balaams-***.com/piano/feltpart.htm

Look about half way down the page. Or maybe you can get a paper punch that makes larger discs.

 

[Mactadpole]

Strange I don't have this problem with these motors. I do like Bart says holding the motor bell while tightening. For the lower props on coax setup the mount will touch each of the blades so I just use an aluminum washer between the prop and mount. Not sure what size washer I use but it is a perfect fit and it seems to work fine. What about fiber washers?

 

[BorisS]

Thanks guys for the advice and i will try your recommendations. Or i am just going to buy the axi mounts for the QCs. I just cant find the little detail that makes the difference.

Same prop same washer same nut

AXI

QCs

 

[gadgetkeith]

hi boris

i would try as others have sugested with either an aluminum or copper washer

if you have a good metal working vice you can even squeeze the the washer flat ways in the jaws and this would give it a nurled surface for even extra grip

an auto spares shop should have the perfect size washers as they come in loads of sizes and thicknesses

a little tip if you gonna do the vice trick aneel ie soften them first

to soften copper washers hold with pliers then heat over a gas flame till turns cherry read then quench ie drop into water to cool instantly

with aluminum washers use bar of soap to rub on top surface then again hold with pliers and heat gently with flame when the soap mark turns black quench in water

this softens them so the vice jaws will leave an impression in the suface

this is also how in me motorcycle days used to reuse the old copper headgaskets on two stroke engines

just seems as you need a shim of sorts on the qcs

keith

 

[BorisS]

Thanks Keith gonns try that !

first gonna go for the look out for a perfectly fitting washed. See no reason to take a standard one that fits on with gaps. Spending several hours to balance the props its all ruined again by a standard to wide washer.

Boris

 

[gadgetkeith]

glad to be of some help

also try general hardware stores and hobby stores

i have boxes of asorted sizes copper and alloy also rubber o-rings split-pins etc

so they a readily available just where to look in your country not sure

85% of my gear is all packed and gone to new house in france or i would offer to send you some if you have a set of digtal calipers just measure isd and osd then look online

you will prob find a box of asorted if you look around on tool sites etc


keith

 

[Bartman]

Earlier this year I bought 6mm prop washers from towerhobbies......don't have a part number at the moment

 

[BorisS]

Thanks Bart,

i will search it through and i might find it. Coming to the conclusion that the paint job on the QC mounts takes away the extra surface friction that the axis have (being naked alu) thus the props don't slip. Additionally the paint is also a issue with the thread itself. Guessing that the paint is not distributed evenly it rubs of at some part of the thread but also causing extra strain on the tread parts resulting in paint and parts of the thread scrapping off. Remember screwing on a nyloc stop nut or whatever they are called out of a harder material to one of them and that was the end of the thread.

By the way one of you guys seen any alumium stop nuts in some shops. My Viennese screw shop dosent have them and cant order them etc.

Thanks

Boris

 

[Tabb Firchau]

Boris, Why dont you switch to Nyloc nuts? I have no problems with mine and can tighten the prop more then enough.

Tabb

 

[BorisS]

Hi Tabb,

I did the first time you recommended them to me. I can only get them or did back then in steel and my experience was that i ruined one of the threads since the soft alu thread ( the way it should be) didn´t take it. Either the nut or the thread i guess had a inaccurancy in it. I will try to get some out off alu and try them again.

Thanks

Boris

 

[Tabb Firchau]

Hmmm, weird. If you want me to drop some 6mm Nylocs in the mail for you just PM me your address. I have not had the problem you mention but I can see how it could happen. I think it might be hard to find Alu Nyloc 6mm nuts?

Tabb

 

[BorisS]

Thanks Tabb but i still have a bunch with me. I dont know look at the pictures every second thread in the meantime looks like this. Some are completely clean and dont give the nut any resistance until it actually bits. Other already half way in you can feel a resistance and than its gone again.I can only suspect the paint giving it the inconsistency and getting the strain out of proportion, and these scrap offs were not from the steel nylocs, but the standard screws that come with it.

Not a big issue

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[jetforce]

Suspecting that the motor mentioned in the topic are all the same anyways just having different specs, I am pretty sure they all share the same prop mounts.

For some reason its a odyssey for me to get the props mounted and really tighten them. On several mounts the threads are already damaged or the paint rubbed off. Just comparing to the axis mounts were it's no issue at all and tightened once the props are solid on the mount. Anybody else experiencing any of this issue. For example the graupner 11 x 5 there is no way for me to get the props on and having them on tight enough that I can't spin the prop by force with me hand. Questioning of there is a big difference in the material between the axi and the RC tiger mounts and thinking that this paint job on the RC tiger mounts might make them look better but not being very practical for a thread ?

Boris

@ Boris.

look here : http://www.multirotorforums.com/sho...e-workshop-Carbon-Props-slipping-on-the-mount.

 

[Lanzar]

Boris. Do u need a new one (have spares). The problem is that the QC ones dont have the thread all the way to bottom like AXI shafts do. U can always go and buy (picture included) and make it all the way.


View attachment 3211

Thanks Tabb but i still have a bunch with me. I dont know look at the pictures every second thread in the meantime looks like this. Some are completely clean and dont give the nut any resistance until it actually bits. Other already half way in you can feel a resistance and than its gone again.I can only suspect the paint giving it the inconsistency and getting the strain out of proportion, and these scrap offs were not from the steel nylocs, but the standard screws that come with it.

Not a big issue

View attachment 3115View attachment 3116

 

[BorisS]

Hi Lanzar thanks,

i already got 8 new ones a month ago and everything is fine at the moment, since i am using a washer with a profile. Will follow the approach from Lars though since the washer is hurting the CF props. The length of the thread is not an issue really since i also have the problem with graupner 11 x 5 which are thicker from the prop shaft leaving the Nut completely in the meat of the thread.

I have a different issue with the QCs at the moment though which I will send you guys via Email, since it could be my fault and i don't want to create any steam about it. Gonna be at the end of the week though since I am in Rome at the moment, getting sick of all these old rocks I constantly have to look at

Got a TNT notification from you guys. Thanks for what ever is coming my way

Boris

Regards

Boris

 

[WillM]

Boris,

From the pictures above, it looks to me that the nuts were overtightened, which stretched and deformed the bottom threads on the shaft. If that is the case, the nuts will never tighten properly. As Lanzar mentioned, it is possible that the unthreaded portion of the shaft was too long, and that the nuts were bottoming out before the props were adequately tight. Those threads look damaged and as such, will never tighten again properly.

 

[Tomstoy2]

Try 'star' lock washers. Will lock both the hub and the prop. Available at hardware and automotive stores. Nice and thin, so they compress well. 1 piece, no split so ballance is good.

 

[redridinghood]

Helicoil inserts are also an option.

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