Pixhawk the new flight controller from 3DR

R_Lefebvre

Arducopter Developer
Hi guys, I'm one of the developers, and am quite interested in what you're talking about with "smoothness" and performance with heavier machines. I'd be interested in seeing any kinda of info, descriptions, and logs that you can give me. I rebuilt the Acro mode so that it actually works well enough, but now I'd like to work on improving the "feel" of the controller.

Are you guys talking about flying in Stab mode, or Acro mode?

One of the things I'm actually working on right now is an angular acceleration rate damper. Basically, I think part of the problem with bigger machines, is that you need a really high PID settings to get it to hold position, particularly with the heavy camera hanging below. But the way things are now, those really high PID settings result in excessively "sharp" movements, which the copter has trouble controlling.

So what I'm doing is inserting some code that basically goes between the pilot's inputs, and the actual machine's target angle. And it dampens the rate at which you can accelerate or decelerate the roll-rate. It should eliminate any overshoot, and allow you to run higher PIDs so that actual position hold is better. My only concern is that some might think it feels "sluggish". I guess we'll have to wait and see. To be clear, we already have a maximum roll rate, which defaults to 180 deg/second. But now I'm working on the rate of change of the rate. A common setting might be 360 deg/sec/sec. So if you were hovering level, and then whack the stick over to 45° as hard as you can, it would take 1/2 second to accelerate to 180 deg/second, and then would smoothly take 1/2 second to decelerate back to 0 deg/sec, hitting the target angle of 45° perfectly.

One thing that could help me understand what you're seeing/feeling, is if you run the higher PID settings, and you're really smooth on the sticks, does the overshoot still happen?

Another thing you can do right now, is look at your Stab P setting. In Stabilize mode, this one is very important. You could try lowering it or increasing it. You could try going down to 2. But if you go above 5, be VERY careful with it with your heavier machines.

In the past, I have used very low settings like 2 on my large helicopter to make it's movements much more gentle. But this does affect it's ability to hold an angle. And the heli is much better balanced than a heavy Octo with a giant camera hanging underneath.

And I would like to warn you guys about "Autotune". This works very well on small sporty quads. But... I'm not even sure you should try it on your larger machines. There are a number of people with larger machines, particularly if you have large props, low kV pancake motors, high voltage (6S) and ESPECIALLY if you have Simonk firmware on the ESC (this is the biggest thing actually!). The Autotune procedure can actually jerk the machine so hard, that the ESC loses sync and the motor stalls out. This has caused a few crashes.

Now... it's not that Autotune actually *causes* the failure. Even if you don't run it, your machine might be vulnerable to it but you just don't know it yet. For example, it could happen just from you jerking the stick around too hard. It's just that the auto-tune automatically pushes things really hard, so it often finds the problem first, and then people blame auto-tune. But as I said, the problem always existed in these people's setups, they just never hit it yet.

AT was thoroughly tested in the beta releases, but beta testers tend to be running small sporty quads.

And if you're not running SimonK firmware, the risk is very low. In fact, I don't know if we've had any reports of this happening with non-SimonK firmware.
 

mspencer1

Member
Hi guys, I'm one of the developers, and am quite interested in what you're talking about with "smoothness" and performance with heavier machines. I'd be interested in seeing any kinda of info, descriptions, and logs that you can give me. I rebuilt the Acro mode so that it actually works well enough, but now I'd like to work on improving the "feel" of the controller.

Are you guys talking about flying in Stab mode, or Acro mode?

One of the things I'm actually working on right now is an angular acceleration rate damper. Basically, I think part of the problem with bigger machines, is that you need a really high PID settings to get it to hold position, particularly with the heavy camera hanging below. But the way things are now, those really high PID settings result in excessively "sharp" movements, which the copter has trouble controlling.

So what I'm doing is inserting some code that basically goes between the pilot's inputs, and the actual machine's target angle. And it dampens the rate at which you can accelerate or decelerate the roll-rate. It should eliminate any overshoot, and allow you to run higher PIDs so that actual position hold is better. My only concern is that some might think it feels "sluggish". I guess we'll have to wait and see. To be clear, we already have a maximum roll rate, which defaults to 180 deg/second. But now I'm working on the rate of change of the rate. A common setting might be 360 deg/sec/sec. So if you were hovering level, and then whack the stick over to 45° as hard as you can, it would take 1/2 second to accelerate to 180 deg/second, and then would smoothly take 1/2 second to decelerate back to 0 deg/sec, hitting the target angle of 45° perfectly.

One thing that could help me understand what you're seeing/feeling, is if you run the higher PID settings, and you're really smooth on the sticks, does the overshoot still happen?

Another thing you can do right now, is look at your Stab P setting. In Stabilize mode, this one is very important. You could try lowering it or increasing it. You could try going down to 2. But if you go above 5, be VERY careful with it with your heavier machines.

In the past, I have used very low settings like 2 on my large helicopter to make it's movements much more gentle. But this does affect it's ability to hold an angle. And the heli is much better balanced than a heavy Octo with a giant camera hanging underneath.

And I would like to warn you guys about "Autotune". This works very well on small sporty quads. But... I'm not even sure you should try it on your larger machines. There are a number of people with larger machines, particularly if you have large props, low kV pancake motors, high voltage (6S) and ESPECIALLY if you have Simonk firmware on the ESC (this is the biggest thing actually!). The Autotune procedure can actually jerk the machine so hard, that the ESC loses sync and the motor stalls out. This has caused a few crashes.

Now... it's not that Autotune actually *causes* the failure. Even if you don't run it, your machine might be vulnerable to it but you just don't know it yet. For example, it could happen just from you jerking the stick around too hard. It's just that the auto-tune automatically pushes things really hard, so it often finds the problem first, and then people blame auto-tune. But as I said, the problem always existed in these people's setups, they just never hit it yet.

AT was thoroughly tested in the beta releases, but beta testers tend to be running small sporty quads.

And if you're not running SimonK firmware, the risk is very low. In fact, I don't know if we've had any reports of this happening with non-SimonK firmware.
This overshoot happens mainly in ACRO mode (rate). It does happen a bit less in stabilize. Its only if i'm being moderate on the sticks. Small fine movements are ok. The large octo I'm flying it on has 390kv motors, 15x4 props and 6S. The ESC's are Castle Talon 35's. Their multi rotor firmware I understand is like the simon k firmware or maybe i'm wrong. Believe it or not I did run the Auto tune with camera gimbal and camera. It made it through the auto tune and was flyable but the settings were a little high causing it to fast oscillate sometimes while giving it some throttle. I will post my logs and see what you think. If there is any test you want me to try just say the word.
 

jfro

Aerial Fun
R_Lefebvre: I just received an email stating my pixhawk shipped today.

This is my first shot with apm. I'm going to start on a quad, either with 900kv or 400kv motors.

I'm currently changing my x8 machine that will now fly in the 18-20lb AUW area with 400kv motors. eCalc sayd an octo can go to 13kg or 28lb on my motors with 18" props, (which I don't have right now). I have 14,15, & 16, so I think 22lbs or 24lbs is my current max with my props.

I had planned on putting my xAirCraft SuperX on the x8 and the new Pixhawk on a mid sized MR (quad or possibly a y6) I'm also starting to build. Before purchasing the the Xaircraft super x, I was flying Hoverfly pro on the x8.

Like most people, I haven't achieved the level of smoothness for video capture with any of my other MR's that I had last summer with the Hoverfly pro & x8. I'd be very surprised, but very happy if the Pixhawk could achieve that.

I hadn't consider putting the Pixhawk on my x8 for a while, if I get up to speed without mishap on my smaller quads with Pixhawk, I"d be agreeable to trying the Pixhawk if I have someone to walk me through the do's and don't with this.... I'm not afraid of testing, but I am realistic knowing there is a longer learning curve on these things when you don't have a mentor or someone helping. These forums are great resources, but sometimes it takes a while to get things configured correctly. From what I understand, APM is more customizable and has a lot more setup time than HFP, DJI, & xAircraft's SuperX.

Does any body know when using way points, can you program in say 5 waypoint, but manually control how long you stay at each? Will it also control cmaera tilt when you arrive at a waypoint or is that a manual control....
 

R_Lefebvre

Arducopter Developer
This overshoot happens mainly in ACRO mode (rate). It does happen a bit less in stabilize. Its only if i'm being moderate on the sticks. Small fine movements are ok. The large octo I'm flying it on has 390kv motors, 15x4 props and 6S. The ESC's are Castle Talon 35's. Their multi rotor firmware I understand is like the simon k firmware or maybe i'm wrong. Believe it or not I did run the Auto tune with camera gimbal and camera. It made it through the auto tune and was flyable but the settings were a little high causing it to fast oscillate sometimes while giving it some throttle. I will post my logs and see what you think. If there is any test you want me to try just say the word.

Ok, so that sounds exactly like the situation I'm talking about and working on to fix. I've got a crappy video here. Unfortunately, it's winter up here and flying opportunities are limited.


Does any body know when using way points, can you program in say 5 waypoint, but manually control how long you stay at each? Will it also control cmaera tilt when you arrive at a waypoint or is that a manual control....

Yes. You would just put a Loiter after every waypoint, which will make it stop at the waypoint and loiter for the time that you specify.
 
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mspencer1

Member
Ok, so that sounds exactly like the situation I'm talking about and working on to fix. I've got a crappy video here. Unfortunately, it's winter up here and flying opportunities are limited.
Its looking good. I haven't weighed my ships before yesterday. The APM octo I talked about above when fully loaded (gimbal and camera) is 25 lbs. I did get it flying just not very smoothly. Should I try your new update? should I try it without payload?
 

R_Lefebvre

Arducopter Developer
No, what I'm working on is not anywhere near ready for public consumption yet. In fact, it's stalled for a bit as I smashed that quad the last day. Not *really* caused by a code fault, more just dumb-thumbs. But yeah, this is a little ways off yet. Hopefully will come out with a 3.2 release.
 

jfro

Aerial Fun
R_Lefebvre: I understand about flying to a way point and loitering. My question is once I get loitering at the waypoint, can I manually fly around a bit and have my flight plan suspended while I do it. In other words, suspend a flight plan, manually control MR with my radio for a bit, then re-engage the flight plan and continue on.

I saw a youtube video and blog post on DIYDrones yesterday by Marco Robustini about a "hybrid " flight mode that was posted on the 16th of this month. He says "After several months of development and testing are pleased to present the "Hybrid flight mode", in two words a "flyable Loiter" with wind compensation, the code virtually switches from "Loiter" to "Alt-Hold" and vice versa when you exit and enter a sticks deadband (configurable), considering of course the compensation of the wind, therefore complies with the tuning of your multirotor. "

He goes on to say "will have to go into the hands of APM Copter Dev Team who will decide whether to adopt it in an upcoming release."

I'm waiting for my Pixhawk and it will be my first experience with APM, so I don't know how these work, but if what he is talking about works, it sounds like it might be a very good development.

My goal is for silky smooth video capture. In the future, once I get some Pixhawk/AMP experience, I may give it a try on my 18-20lb x8 that I'm buidling.
 

R_Lefebvre

Arducopter Developer
Well, you can flip from Auto mode to Loiter (or Stab, or whatever) and then fly around, and then put it back in Auto mode. I believe it should resume the auto mission from where it left off, but I'm not positive as I've never tested that.

Marco's new mode is interesting, but personally I prefer the classic Loiter performance. You can move it around in Loiter, and it maintains a very precise control. It basically has a GPS position control, but you move the GPS position lock around. So you can move around, but the speed and position is extremely precisely controlled.

What Marco is doing is closer to what DJI does I believe. When you don't touch the stick, it will hold position. But when you move the stick, it sort of releases the GPS position hold, and you're back in manual control. Then, back to position hold when you return the stick to center.

It's sort of a minor difference, but once you've flown them, you'll understand.
 



Huang

New Member
I've got that on an F450, does that count?

I am a total newbie but I like what I see with the pixhawk. I was thinking of doing the beginners build here but sub in a pixhawk for the Naza. Would you post some of the components used on your F450, along with your impressions, and things you would change/improve if you had to do it again?
 

DennyR

Active Member
The problem seems to be that you cant demonstrate the height hold to an acceptable level, so we can't actually see what is going on. Is that pilot incompetence or just that you have not been able to solve that problem yet? It wanders up and down the whole time to the point of actually hitting the ground. I spent an hour with my APM 2.6 on the beach in a known good model trying every PID setting technique that I know of. In the end I gave up on it. I want a product that is free from hours of geek work just to get it work to an acceptable AP standard and reliably. I guess I'll have to try it in my motor glider and see if that works any better. As for putting it in a SR helicopter, You must be joking.

APM has improved a lot recently but with it's track record it needed to. As an example of what I would expect from it, my Naza's will stay put with minimal drift indoors without any stick inputs at all, even in prop. wash at low levels. I can take off with it leaning at 45 deg. and it will still self level and go up straight. In my opinion your code still needs a lot of work before you can compete at this level.

FWIW
Analysis shows that DJI have matched the ESC's exactly to the motors and props. that they use; the package works efficiently as delivered and nothing is left for people to screw up.



Rob
At least you did not hit any trees this time.
 

R_Lefebvre

Arducopter Developer
Huang, the F450 is a piece of crap, and I'd never recommend it to anybody for anything other than a beater build. I only use it because it bounces well, which happens fairly often when building the code. But, FWIW, on that quad I've got NTM 28something 800kV motors. 10" APC MR props. And F-20A ESC's. It's really very basic. It was actually slapped together with a bunch of leftover components. The motors are especially horrible. The bearing bores are all out of round, so it kills bearings as soon as you stuff them in.
 

jfro

Aerial Fun
I am a total newbie but I like what I see with the pixhawk. I was thinking of doing the beginners build here but sub in a pixhawk for the Naza. Would you post some of the components used on your F450, along with your impressions, and things you would change/improve if you had to do it again?

I'd recommend the f450 with tiger 2216 900kv motors and 10" props. With 5000 mha 4s battery, you will be able to slow flly around 18-20 mintues. With gopro camera and gimbal, it will be 12-15 minutes. Fun Fun Fun to fly!

I started last year with a larger unit and built the customized f450 for my second. I got much more flying and experience with the f450. It's easy, quiet, and less stressful to fly. The Tiger 900kv motors, are what the fpv guys fly on the discovery. Great motor.

If you want to upgrade the arms, there are kits out there with stronger arms, but for your first, the stock arms will do fine. I flew mine with the Naza V2 but have a pixhawk waiting to be put on the f450 for my introduction into the open source world of multirotors.

I get very steady video off the f450 (mine is now actually a 550 quad as I put aluminum arms on it) and while it's nowhere near as cool as my bigger units, it flies smoothly, quietly, stays up a long time, and is a gas to fly.
My other suggestion, would be same motors, but go for the discovery pro. It's $500, but comes with a gimbal which saves $170 + dollars depending on what brand you'd buy if you want to use your quad for video.
 

R_Lefebvre

Arducopter Developer
So Denny has decided to wage a battle here because I called him out on his BS on another forum. He tried to derail a blog post of mine by starting to talk about how awesome he is and how he's going to revolutionize RC Aerial Photography with another one of his developments, how great his TDR helicopter is, how large copters are going to kill everyone and we should all be flying Phantoms, etc. You've all seen it before. Anyway, I deleted it all, including his claims at owning millions of dollars worth of Cineflex equipped aircraft. And so now he comes back here.

Denny, the flight video you see there is a quick and dirty technical video intended to show other developers a bit of code that I'm working on. It is not a finished product. I was also flying in manual throttle mode, not altitude hold. If you can fly a copter that hovers at 30% throttle in a garage on manual throttle control while inputting heavy roll and pitch inputs, I'd like to see it. As I said on my blog, "video or it didn't happen".

If you are incapable of tuning Alt Hold, then it only proves you don't know how these things work. Most people seem to have no trouble at all, with most just using the default settings and getting good results.

As for the tree thing, you'll notice I actually posted two versions of the video. One with the crash and one without. I hesitated to put the crash one up because I knew that some people are too stupid to understand what it's like actually writing these programs, instead of just using finished product where somebody else has done all the hard work for you. It's rare that other flight controller companies show you the out-takes of their work, because they want people to think that their flight controllers were born of divine conception, sprinkled with fairy dust, and come from Happy Happy Fun Land. But in the end, I really have nothing to hide, the crash one is funny, so I put it up. Actually, I remember now, the reason I even showed you the crash one is to disprove your claim that you saw a 450 helicopter knock all of a guy's teeth out, then break his jaw, then go around and tear up his back. Bull Crap. That video shows that a 450 heli falls helplessly to the ground after knocking off a twig.


The problem seems to be that you cant demonstrate the height hold to an acceptable level, so we can't actually see what is going on. Is that pilot incompetence or just that you have not been able to solve that problem yet? It wanders up and down the whole time to the point of actually hitting the ground. I spent an hour with my APM 2.6 on the beach in a known good model trying every PID setting technique that I know of. In the end I gave up on it. I want a product that is free from hours of geek work just to get it work to an acceptable AP standard and reliably. I guess I'll have to try it in my motor glider and see if that works any better. As for putting it in a SR helicopter, You must be joking.

APM has improved a lot recently but with it's track record it needed to. As an example of what I would expect from it, my Naza's will stay put with minimal drift indoors without any stick inputs at all, even in prop. wash at low levels. I can take off with it leaning at 45 deg. and it will still self level and go up straight. In my opinion your code still needs a lot of work before you can compete at this level.

FWIW
Analysis shows that DJI have matched the ESC's exactly to the motors and props. that they use; the package works efficiently as delivered and nothing is left for people to screw up.



Rob
At least you did not hit any trees this time.
 
Last edited by a moderator:

Huang

New Member
I'd recommend the f450 with tiger 2216 900kv motors and 10" props. With 5000 mha 4s battery, you will be able to slow flly around 18-20 mintues. With gopro camera and gimbal, it will be 12-15 minutes. Fun Fun Fun to fly!

I started last year with a larger unit and built the customized f450 for my second. I got much more flying and experience with the f450. It's easy, quiet, and less stressful to fly. The Tiger 900kv motors, are what the fpv guys fly on the discovery. Great motor.

If you want to upgrade the arms, there are kits out there with stronger arms, but for your first, the stock arms will do fine. I flew mine with the Naza V2 but have a pixhawk waiting to be put on the f450 for my introduction into the open source world of multirotors.

I get very steady video off the f450 (mine is now actually a 550 quad as I put aluminum arms on it) and while it's nowhere near as cool as my bigger units, it flies smoothly, quietly, stays up a long time, and is a gas to fly.
My other suggestion, would be same motors, but go for the discovery pro. It's $500, but comes with a gimbal which saves $170 + dollars depending on what brand you'd buy if you want to use your quad for video.

jfro
thanks for the info like I said I'm a total nubie, my learning quad is a blade nano nano qx with a dx8. I have been a forum reading fool, and I came across this forum, great place I might add.
 

Bartman

Welcome to MultiRotorForums.com!!
Hi folks, i see denny's been visiting. i'd ban him at this point but if i did i'd be the bad guy. instead we'll just let him demonstrate his tendencies to those that haven't figured him out yet.

i thought those comments about the 450 helicopter were pretty silly as well.

regards,
bart
 

jdennings

Member
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Fz_yq4szF6U
The problem seems to be that you cant demonstrate the height hold to an acceptable level, so we can't actually see what is going on. Is that pilot incompetence or just that you have not been able to solve that problem yet? It wanders up and down the whole time to the point of actually hitting the ground. I spent an hour with my APM 2.6 on the beach in a known good model trying every PID setting technique that I know of. In the end I gave up on it. I want a product that is free from hours of geek work just to get it work to an acceptable AP standard and reliably. I guess I'll have to try it in my motor glider and see if that works any better. As for putting it in a SR helicopter, You must be joking.

Well, I've been flying both APM and WKM on a 5kg X8, a 9kg flat 8, and several lighter quads, and this has not been my experience. All my APM copters fly fine on stock settings. Then autotune (successful on all of them) and at most a couple tweaks (Stab P, one number) for smoother filming and then as good or better than WKM after quite a bit of tuning.

APM has improved a lot recently but with it's track record it needed to. As an example of what I would expect from it, my Naza's will stay put with minimal drift indoors without any stick inputs at all, even in prop. wash at low levels. I can take off with it leaning at 45 deg. and it will still self level and go up straight. In my opinion your code still needs a lot of work before you can compete at this level.

...
Maybe a video (not mine) is better than a 1000 words?
 

R_Lefebvre

Arducopter Developer
Wait until you try 3.2. ;) The angular acceleration code that I created will make it even smoother for filming. You'll be able to use as much Stab-P as you want for stability, but get really buttery smooth control of the angle.
 

Richk

Member
Can anyone tell me if there is a calibration procedure that has to be done to use the Pixhawk. I know that with Autoquad and Zero UAV there is quite a bit that has to be done before you can get in the air?
 

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