Neills DIY Gimbal Design

R_Lefebvre

Arducopter Developer
Looking good :)

I hadn't considered your mounting to the frame before. Looking back now at the images of the finished unit, I see that your mounting plate is rectangular, i.e. it is deeper front to back than it is side to side. This could have something to do with the observed behaviour. The narrower side to side spacing of the mounting points allows more pendulum-type movement (corresponding to the roll axis) than front to back (corresponding to the pitch axis). I reckon it will be important to have the mounting points equally spaced (i.e. square), as widely spaced as possible (so the suspended mass has minimum mechanical advantage over its mountings) and, of course, centred exactly over the CG point. Note the design of the Zenmuse in this respect - very widely spaced.

How do you intend to apply the Barry mounts? In compression or in tension?

Agreed. The mounting plate needs to be as widely set as possible.

These ball mounts, where exactly do you order them, and how much are they? I have stolen some from an old CD ROM that I disassembled, but would like to get some more to experiment. I'm not really sure if they are better than my DIY ring mounts, but it's worth a shot. I can get the ring mounts ridiculously soft, but the problem is, you can only get so soft before you end up with shaking problems.
 

BIGTACO

Member
I ordered mine from Photohigher. They stock P/N 275-2N. You can try directly from barry controls but I figured I would toss PH some business.
 

jes1111

Active Member
Interesting - of course, they should be mounted in compression - but since neither side of the mount is "fixed" then I think that normal rules don't necessarily apply. Zenmuse certainly breaks the rules, being in tension and also using 12 of them (which is probably way different to their published weight spec). Naturally it is easy enough to make a bent aluminium bracket to convert the mounting to compression.
 

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