NAZA-M Lite Won't Connect To Assistant

RunnerDuck

Member
I'm a noob and just setting up my first Taranis/NAZA combination. It took me a while to get my Taranis X9D Tx bind with my X8R Rx. The ESC's are calibrated and the motors spin up just fine.

Now that I've got the Tx talking to the Rx I'm moving on to hooking up my NAZA M Lite.


I've followed everything I can find about setting it up and here's what I've got:

1. SBUS from Rx connected to NAZA X2.
2. NAZA Power Module connected to NAZA X3 and powered.
3. LED connected to NAZA LED.
4. USB cable connected between LED and computer (Windows XP 32).
5. Latest XP drivers installed.
6. Latest NAZA M Assistant installed up updated.

7. NADA!

It's like the Taranis is not talking to the NAZA. I do not get any indication that NAZA is talking to Assistant. I get no lights in the bottom corner of the Assistant software. Nothing indicates that the NAZA is even connected to the computer other than the NAZA LED goes to "Green" when I plug in the USB.

I even changed the mixer on the Taranis from TAER to AETR as recommended on a YouTube NAZA/Taranis setup, that didn't do anything.

Any ideas?
 

TahoeTim

Member
Did you install the jumper on your receiver so it will put out sbus?

I think my laptop will connect to the Naza even without the receiver attached. You should have a green steady light on the led module. I'll bet your drivers are not correctly installed.
 

RunnerDuck

Member
Did you install the jumper on your receiver so it will put out sbus?

I think my laptop will connect to the Naza even without the receiver attached. You should have a green steady light on the led module. I'll bet your drivers are not correctly installed.

I don't know what jumper you are talking about. I have the Rx plugged into the NAZA on their respective SBUS ports.

I do get a steady green light when I plug in the USB cable to the computer.

I reloaded the driver three times now. The last time I completely uninstalled it and then installed it with the NAZA driver installation program.
 

RunnerDuck

Member
Problem Solved!!!!

I have a NAZA-M Lite and the Assistant software is for NAZA-M. I did not know that there were two different programs for each model of NAZA.

I've installed NAZA-M Lite Assistant and I can not talk to my computer through the USB.


I'm a noob and just setting up my first Taranis/NAZA combination. It took me a while to get my Taranis X9D Tx bind with my X8R Rx. The ESC's are calibrated and the motors spin up just fine.

Now that I've got the Tx talking to the Rx I'm moving on to hooking up my NAZA M Lite.


I've followed everything I can find about setting it up and here's what I've got:

1. SBUS from Rx connected to NAZA X2.
2. NAZA Power Module connected to NAZA X3 and powered.
3. LED connected to NAZA LED.
4. USB cable connected between LED and computer (Windows XP 32).
5. Latest XP drivers installed.
6. Latest NAZA M Assistant installed up updated.

7. NADA!

It's like the Taranis is not talking to the NAZA. I do not get any indication that NAZA is talking to Assistant. I get no lights in the bottom corner of the Assistant software. Nothing indicates that the NAZA is even connected to the computer other than the NAZA LED goes to "Green" when I plug in the USB.

I even changed the mixer on the Taranis from TAER to AETR as recommended on a YouTube NAZA/Taranis setup, that didn't do anything.

Any ideas?
 


RunnerDuck

Member
You beat me to it. There are two assistant programs.

Thanks! I went through all the set up and I still can't arm the NAZA-M Lite with my Taranis X9D.

I turn on the TX turn on the Quad and move both sticks down and out, nada!

Any thoughts there?
 

TahoeTim

Member
Did you calibrate the sticks? Make sure the assistant is showing full movement on the bars. Mine only showed aileron from 50% to 100%. I also had to reverse the elevator channel. The naza is looking for the arming stick positions. You have to make sure that it is seeing the commands correctly. You also need to calibrate the compass.
 

RunnerDuck

Member
Did you calibrate the sticks? Make sure the assistant is showing full movement on the bars. Mine only showed aileron from 50% to 100%. I also had to reverse the elevator channel. The naza is looking for the arming stick positions. You have to make sure that it is seeing the commands correctly. You also need to calibrate the compass.

I did calibrate my sticks both on the Taranis and the Assistant. I do get full movement on the bars.

I too reversed the Elevator in Assistant.

I can't calibrate the Compass or GPS until I can ARM!

I'm sure I have to be missing something small.

Then I fire up the Quad the LED goes through what I believe is a normal sequence then it keeps flashing "RED" three times.

Here's my setup;

NAZA-M Lite:

Power Module in X3

Taranis X8R SBUS in X2

LED in LED

GPS in EXP

Motors M1 - M4 plugged in.

I've included some screen shots of my TX and Assistant. Hopefully something in all of this will turn on a light buld somewhere!
 

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TahoeTim

Member
It looks correct. Check your throttle off trim setting. When you power up the radio does it say "throttle warning"?

i found a setup video on YouTube that runs thru the whole setup. You can google it and find it. I do recall setting up my compass before I ever armed it. They call it the dji dance. Click thru the other assistant screens and look for the calibrate buttons. I am traveling in my car or I would help you more. Sorry.
 

Rotorfreek

Member
First of all your 3 red leds make perfect sence... It indicates the Naza thinks it's not stationary, or is badly out of calibration. Plug into the assistant and masked sure the model is level, then do a basic calibration, followed by an advanced calibration.

Then go back into the RC channel settings. When you push both sticks forward and to the right, all the pointers in the Naza should be on the right. Reverse any that are on the left.

Let me know!

Sent by my thumb, a trusty slave to my crazy mind. The above is the ramblings of a lunatic, and should be treated as such. Terms and conditions apply.
 

Rotorfreek

Member
And BTW, both IMU and compass calibration should be done before the motors are armed.

Sent by my thumb, a trusty slave to my crazy mind. The above is the ramblings of a lunatic, and should be treated as such. Terms and conditions apply.
 

RunnerDuck

Member
Tahoe Tim:

I do NOT get a "Throttle Warning" when I first turn it on.

I've watched the video I believe you are talking about to no avail.

I downloaded another eepe and it will arm but the order of mixer isn't right. It is TAER but it does arm and run the motors. The problem is that it arms with the motors all running and all sticks control the speeds but nothing slows them down or stops them. Bring the two sticks down and in will stop them after a few seconds. They will not start again.

I set up a new model profile using the video but changed the mixer to TAER as opposed to AETR as recommended in the video. If I do that I get exactly the same results as the new eepe file.

Something very odd going on and I have to think it's something very simple that I'm missing.

Rotorfreek:

I will try to calibrate the IMU and Compass. I'm not sure how you do that with out being connected to the computer. Suggestions?

When I push both sticks forward and to the right all sliders are hard right.

Thanks for the suggestions!
 

Rotorfreek

Member
If you are all right when forward and right, you're channels are set up correctly.

You must be plugged into Naza assistant to do the basic and advanced calibration.

Then take it outside away from any metal, put it down, and power it up in gps mode. Wait until you get all green led. Then toggle your mode switch top to bottom and back 10 times until your led goes solid yellow. Turn it through 360 deg, then when it goes solid green, turn it nose down and do 360 deg until the green goes out.

You should now have only one or two green flashes, and be ready to take off.

Sent by my thumb, a trusty slave to my crazy mind. The above is the ramblings of a lunatic, and should be treated as such. Terms and conditions apply.
 

RunnerDuck

Member
If you are all right when forward and right, you're channels are set up correctly.

You must be plugged into Naza assistant to do the basic and advanced calibration.

Then take it outside away from any metal, put it down, and power it up in gps mode. Wait until you get all green led. Then toggle your mode switch top to bottom and back 10 times until your led goes solid yellow. Turn it through 360 deg, then when it goes solid green, turn it nose down and do 360 deg until the green goes out.

You should now have only one or two green flashes, and be ready to take off.

Sent by my thumb, a trusty slave to my crazy mind. The above is the ramblings of a lunatic, and should be treated as such. Terms and conditions apply.

I made some progress today. I was able to get everything calibrated and from what I can tell works.

Now the BAD NEWS, I still can't arm my quad. I have switches set up for GPS ATTI - ATTI - MANUAL and FAILSAFE. When I select the different switches I get different led lights. Here's the list:

MANUAL - No LED

ATTI - One Yellow flash. If I push the sticks to arm I get two Yellow flashes.

ATTI GPS - One Green flash. If I push the sticks to arm I get two Green flashes.

FAILSAFE - Steady flashing Yellow even when sticks are in the arm position.

Just a reminder that I have downloaded an eepe file that's close to what I have. The file I've created is for my NAZA-M LITE, Taranis X9D and X8R. The eepe file I downloaded will arm my motors but the spin up to about half speed and cannot be slowed down.

Attached is a comparison between the two. The one with No Name is the one I've created the "DJI f450 ori" was downloaded. There may be some clue there.

I'm getting close but no cigar. All suggestions happily tried!
 

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TahoeTim

Member
Your config file is wrong. The channels are wrong. Are you watching while you move the sticks in assistant?

You should read the sticky on what the led lights mean. It seems like you are not getting the motors to run. I would check the idle setting and maybe build a new Taranis model from scratch if the sticky doesn't help. I set up my mode switches while in assistant, watching the switch movements and adjusting live as needed. There is a thread on how to set it up :

Preliminary setup of the Tx:

Go to the Mixer Menu (page 6/13)
By default, the channels on the Taranis look like this:
CH1 – THR
CH2 – AIL
CH3 – ELE
CH4 – RUD
What we want (using an sbus connection to the naza) is:
CH1 – AIL
CH2 – ELE
CH3 – THR
CH4 – RUD
Additionally we will also need
CH5 – for gimbal control if you have one or if not gain adjustment
CH6 – for IOC commands (or gain adjustment if using a gimbal)
CH7 – for Control Modes (Manual/Atti/GPS)

To get the set up right:
1. Press and hold Enter on the first channel (CH1 – THR) and select edit from the sub menu
2. Move down to source using the +/- buttons. Then hit enter so it starts flashing
3. Use the +/- buttons to scroll through until youhave AIL as the selected source.
4. Press ‘enter’ to confirm and then ‘exit’ twice to go back to the previous screen
5. Repeat the process for channels 2 and 3 so that they are set to ELE and THR respectively. CH4-RUD does not need to eb changed
6. Next move to CH5 (currently empty). Press ‘enter’ to select, move down to ‘Source’ setting and press enter again to define a value. It’s probably best to choose a variable switch for this as it’s either going to be used for adjusting gains or gimbal control – 2 or 3 position switches just aren’t suitable! I’m going to use S1, (the variable knob on the left hand side) for this example.
7.Next move to CH6 and assign it a switch in the source as you did for CH5. This needs to be one of the three way switches because this will be used for IOC (Off/Course Lock/Home Lock). I chose Switch ‘SG’ as my source.
8. For CH7 you also need a three way switch which will be used for Control Mode Switching (Manual/ Atti/GPS). I selected switch SE as my source here.
9. Finally, with your 7 channels set up, head to the servos menu page (7/13) where you will need to Invert channel 6 by scrolling down to CH6, pressing enter followed by ‘+’ three times to highlight the ‘direction’ field. Press enter to select ‘INV’ and exit to leave. Changing the direction of this channel ensures that when your IOC switch (SG) is in the up position (as they all should be when starting up), IOC is in the off position. Moving the IOC switch to the middle will then enable course lock mode and moving it to the down position will enable home lock.

Connecting to the Assistant Software and Calibrating

1) Connect your powered up copter to your PC via the LED module. Open the Assistant software.
2) Check and calibrate your command sticks and X1 (gimbal or gain adjustment) through the Basic/RC section of the Assistant.
3) If you're not using a gimbal (or IOC), you can go to the Basic/Gain page of the Assistant and change whichever remote adjust drop down menus you wish to either X1 (or X2)
4) Go to Advanced/IOC page (if using IOC) and check the box. Flick your SG switch to ensure that it correctly highlights off/course lock/home lock in the up/middle/down positions.
5) Go to Advanced/Gimbal page if using a gimbal and switch it to ‘on’. Check the gimbal operates as expected with the ‘S1’ switch we set up on CH5 earlier.

Configuring the Control Mode Switch

1) Now go back to Basic/RC page which shows the graphical control Mode Switch Slider. Use the drop down menu to select Manual for the right hand tab. This ‘Manual’ tab should be highlighted when the switch is in the up position (but you will notice it doesn’t). Similarly, when the switch is in the middle positon, Atti should be highlighted (not failsafe)and when in the down position, GPS should be highlighted.
2) To fix this ‘alignment’ issue, go to the servos menu on the Tx (page 7/13) and scroll down to CH7. Select the min value field which is set to -100 and set it to -64 (minus 64). Similarly, select the max value field and change from 100 to 64 (positive 64). Finally select the PPM center field and change the value to 1530.
3) Now exit out of the servos menu and go back to the assistant. You should now see the graphical control mode switch working as we want and highlighting the appropriate mode dependent upon the switch position.

Setting Failsafe (for when the rx isn't receiving a signal from the tx)
1) Go the model menu (page 2/13)
2) Scroll down to Failsafe Mode
3) Select ‘Custom’ and then ‘Set’
4) Scroll down to channel 3 (THR) and hit enter.
5) Move the throttle to just over half way (hover). You should see the slider move and value change.
6) Hit Enter and then press the f/s button on the rx. The green light on the rx should flash twice.
7) Switch off the tx and check that in the assistant the control mode switch slider moves to failsafe and the throttle sets itself at just over 50%.
8) Failsafe is set. Now choose your enhanced failsafe mode in the Assistant.

Setting a 2 Position Switch for Failsafe (Panic Button!)

Let’s say that we want to use switch ‘SF’ as an immediate forced failsafe/panic button - no matter what mode we’re in and without having to turn the Tx off:
1) First let’s create a custom curve. Go to the curves menu (page 8/13) select CV1 and enter the following values into the Y field. Pt 1 = -54 (minus54). Pt 2=0, Pt3=49, Pt4=0 and Pt5=49.
2) Back in the Mixer Menu (page 6/13) we now have to go down to CH7, press and hold enter and then select ‘Insert After’.
3) Go down to Source and set it as SE
4) Go to Weight and set bit as -30 (minus 30)
5) Go to Curve and set it as CV1
5) Finally go to Switch and select SF(downarrow)
6) Exit out of the mix and check that toggling the SF switch to the down position whilst in any flight mode, puts the slider to the failsafe position.
7) Done!
 
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RunnerDuck

Member
If you looked at the two different programs I included in the attached PDF you'll see that the one with NO NAME is the new file I created. It's exactly the same as in the description above but still does not arm the motors. The DJI 450 file is not even close to the settings above yet will arm the motors only in the wrong mode.

After spending a week on this I'm really going nuts. Hopefully someone will find the magic bullet by looking closely at the NO NAME file I created.
 

TahoeTim

Member
I did look at them and they are not the same. One has the channels in the wrong order. One has the modes on ch5 and one has them on ch7.

Follow the instructions I pasted and it will work. It only takes 5 minutes and you have been screwing around for days.

You have to calibrate the compass (not gps) like others have told you but I think you are there in your latest setup. Attach to assistant and move one control stick at a time. Also flick one switch at a time to verify those too. I see you added voice to your switches too.
 

gringers

Preoccupied
Tahoe Tim:

I downloaded another eepe and it will arm but the order of mixer isn't right. It is TAER......./snip/

....I set up a new model profile using the video but changed the mixer to TAER as opposed to AETR as recommended in the video. If I do that I get exactly the same results as the new eepe file

Very confused by the above...have you tried AETR?
 

RunnerDuck

Member
I was running late tonight but I did try and follow exactly your list above. Sadly it did not arm my motors. Everything displayed in Assistant worked properly, the sticks, sliders and switches. I was not able to get my gimbal to respond so I clicked it off in Assistant and unplugged it.

One question I have is, what's the difference between "Ail" and "IAil"? When my transmitter boots up its in "I-all four directions". When I followed the instructions above I used "Ail" as that is what it said.

I calibrated the sticks and sliders on the transmitter as well as in Assistant. They all have full travel in Assistant.

I'll run through it again tomorrow when I get home but hopes still aren't very high as to me getting it "Armed" any time soon.
 

RunnerDuck

Member
Yes I have the mixer set to AETR.

Sorry for the confusion. Like I had mentioned I've got a program that I downloaded for a NAZA 450. It has the mixer set up as TAER and it will arm them motors but they star up at half speed and I can't slow them down.

Also I have a new model I created that uses the correct AETR but sadly it will not "Arm" the NAZA.

I guess what I'm struggling with is, "why does one program with bad settings kind of work and my program with the correct settings not work at all?"

I had hoped the comparison file I included above showing the two different models would trigger something with someone to have an ah-ha moment. So far NaDA!
 

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