fltundra
Member
Hadn't seen those, thanks for sharing. Much better design then the Jeti connectors amerly suggested.
How Do You Avoid Sparking During Battery Connection
- Thread starter Mojave
- Start date
Meh you will find the other group saying solder is better because mechanical can fail too.
iv learned people simply have preferences. Most seem to go with XT60 or XT90. Now you can go with XT-90 spark proof too!
Old Man
Active Member
Nothing wrong with Anderson's I've been using them for various power supply connectors for a good many years but they won't have any preventative impact on first connection sparking. There is a down side in their bulk since they are a bit longer than many of the connectors that are used for electric modeling. One thing that should be noted is Anderson's are made in several different amp ratings and one should determine the max current they anticipate the connector to handle and review manufacturer data to assure they select a connector that is rated accordingly. They also use their own special crimping tool and those are not cheap.
Mojave
Member
Take a look here: http://www.espritmodel.com/search.aspx?find=Anti+spark
Esprit has a lot of Jeti items and I believe they are in Florida
Yup - they had them: they are indeed in Florida. Thanks for the tip!
Amerly
Member
Hey guys,
Just installed this device on one of my Copters : Herkules III AntiBlitz v1 - 6S LiPo 2.0
Works like a charm ! I use standard servo connector lead soldered to one of my main EC5's since I just use it for initial anti-spark connection and remove it all before flight... Thanks Andreas !
Just installed this device on one of my Copters : Herkules III AntiBlitz v1 - 6S LiPo 2.0
Works like a charm ! I use standard servo connector lead soldered to one of my main EC5's since I just use it for initial anti-spark connection and remove it all before flight... Thanks Andreas !
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Amerly
Member
Ronan, If your talking about the Herkules Anti-blitz no... You use it to ''pre-power'' your setup in a gentle spark-free way (gentle on the electronics, capacitors and all)... You can leave it hooked for flight if you want but i don't... I see it as a jumping cable kit, you don't need to fly with it Mine came with a servo lead so I just used a servo extension to weld to my main bat wires...
If your talking about the Jeti anti spark I don't see it failing anywere soon... It's a massive bullet connector (if you use the 150A or 300A at least) that is pretty fu**in tight ! The only ''fragile'' part is the ceramic on top of it... Even is you broke this part you would still have that massive connector undisturbed... The only tricky part about this one is the ''UnsolderOnePartWhileSolderingTheOtherOne''... Took me a few time to get it on... Best is to unsolder the ceramic first and then resolder it at the end... I'm sure some would have the perfect technique to do it the first time but theses big wire and connectors do need some time and heat to suck that welding right... Better get this part right and then resolder the ceramic anti-spark in place...
Good luck !
Mine came with a servo lead so I just used a servo extension to weld to my main bat wires... If your talking about the Jeti anti spark I don't see it failing anywere soon... It's a massive bullet connector (if you use the 150A or 300A at least) that is pretty fu**in tight ! The only ''fragile'' part is the ceramic on top of it... Even is you broke this part you would still have that massive connector undisturbed... The only tricky part about this one is the ''UnsolderOnePartWhileSolderingTheOtherOne''... Took me a few time to get it on... Best is to unsolder the ceramic first and then resolder it at the end... I'm sure some would have the perfect technique to do it the first time but theses big wire and connectors do need some time and heat to suck that welding right... Better get this part right and then resolder the ceramic anti-spark in place...
Good luck !
Scott Drysdale
Mixmaster
Working thru on the basis of what the newest DJI S900 and S1000 are using and also some of the new batteries that are coming out of Asia specifically for the larger DJI Multirotors:
There are two sizes/types of connectors being used, i.e., the AX150 and the XT150.
DJI uses the black XT-150 for negative connections and the red AX150 for the positive connection.
The positive connection has the built-in 5.5 ohm resistor in the ringed conductor tip.
Both types are manufactured by AMASS and you can buy both directly from them thru eBay etc.
Because the AX is larger than the XT connector there is less chance of connecting anything incorrectly.
Because the resistor tip is built in to the positive connector, it seems best to connect the positive connector last, but only in this case with AX150 on the positive side.
For those who want to remain with 100% XT type connectors, do as Bartman suggests, connect the positive connector first......
BTW - the red and black leads are from the battery as supplied by the manufacturer specifically for DJI.
View attachment 20826
There are two sizes/types of connectors being used, i.e., the AX150 and the XT150.
DJI uses the black XT-150 for negative connections and the red AX150 for the positive connection.
The positive connection has the built-in 5.5 ohm resistor in the ringed conductor tip.
Both types are manufactured by AMASS and you can buy both directly from them thru eBay etc.
Because the AX is larger than the XT connector there is less chance of connecting anything incorrectly.
Because the resistor tip is built in to the positive connector, it seems best to connect the positive connector last, but only in this case with AX150 on the positive side.
For those who want to remain with 100% XT type connectors, do as Bartman suggests, connect the positive connector first......
BTW - the red and black leads are from the battery as supplied by the manufacturer specifically for DJI.
View attachment 20826
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Last edited by a moderator:
Scott Drysdale
Mixmaster
Is that loud crack you hear when connecting the batteries really your friend? Maybe..... maybe not.
Here is what happens inside of microprocessors as a result of inadequate surge protection between your residential service and your PC.
Voltage spikes can momentarily reach thousands of volts when they hit the front end of a processor. This results in tiny hole punctures in the semi-conductors and/or conductive traces. Over time these add up and increase the internal resistance of the microprocessor resulting in more heat and eventually a thermal runaway. This photo is just the consequence of ESD - electrostatic discharge. View attachment 20827
Here is what happens inside of microprocessors as a result of inadequate surge protection between your residential service and your PC.
Voltage spikes can momentarily reach thousands of volts when they hit the front end of a processor. This results in tiny hole punctures in the semi-conductors and/or conductive traces. Over time these add up and increase the internal resistance of the microprocessor resulting in more heat and eventually a thermal runaway. This photo is just the consequence of ESD - electrostatic discharge. View attachment 20827
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OK, I don't understand. I use XT90 connectors and I just put a Jeti bullet connector with the resistor inline in the positive lead and I'm still getting a hefty spark when I make the connection. Did I do something wrong? Just to be clear, the connection I'm making is the XT90 connection.
If you are connecting a regular XT-90, it will spark. You need to connect a XT-90S (anti-spark) or what DJI is doing, AS150 and XT150 (connect the black first and then the red).
No more spark
If you are connecting a regular XT-90, it will spark. You need to connect a XT-90S (anti-spark) or what DJI is doing, AS150 and XT150 (connect the black first and then the red).
No more spark
I guess I thought the inline Jeti anti-spark bullet would arrest the spark.
Yeah - it's in the positive line. I must say, I'm a bit miffed, but I'm also getting tired of how difficult it is to pull the XT90s apart. Maybe I'll just change everything up.
What are you flying? If it's big (like 800mm+) switch to what DJI is using. Honestly i took an afternoon to change everything to a AS150/XT150 setup... and since then... just brilliant!
Just make sure to heat up those large brass connectors enough to get a good/solid solder! I use a butane soldering iron, with the torch tip for those. Works great, $20 at Radio Shack.
Tarot 650. I run two configurations, one at 6S and one at 4S. I get a decent spark with both but the 6S setup is obviously worse. I do like the idea of going to bullets - much easier to pull apart when you can twist them. Got a good source for the AS150/XT150 connectors in the US? Changing them over is not that big a deal - I have some other soldering to do in any case.
Try 1UAS, or eBay (check it ships from US).