Hoverfly HF GPS not work

M

mfabriz

Member
Hello, someone can help me?

I have connected board to HFP, i made all calibrations and in Hoverfly setup also compass calibration is ok.
I have putted the gps antennas more of 20cm from HFP.
The led of gps board after power become blu, so with maximum gps signal.
I have checked in Hoverfly setup that the Aux2 switch in 1 position enable Position hold and in 2 position enable RTH, so all is correct.
The autolevel of drone is ok, i have also trimmed it with the procedure described on manual.
The problem is that when i insert gps mode, the drone remain in a circle of 3 meters for about 10-15 sec, after begins to move for more of 6-7-10 meters without stop and not return to gps position; afterI have to bring near.
If i move the sticks for another new position, it isn't retained.
In HFP and HF GPS there is last firmware, and the gps antenna is GS407 model.
I tryed also to move the antenna in other position but even so not work.
My is a big drone 1,5 meters of width and weight about 15 Kg.

I opened a ticket to Hoverfly support on 20 Aug and i still wait an answer..
 


JZSlenker

JZSlenker

Yeah, I can blow that up.
Do you have the latest firmware on both the HFP and GPS board? I mean, do you have identical versions on both boards?
Do you have any ferrous material on your bird? (anything magnetic... steel fasteners etc)
 

M

mfabriz

Member
Yes, i have the last firmware on both boards.
I tryed also to put antenna on a wooden stick at about 30cm over frame and boards but nothing, same result.
The bad thing is that Hoverfly not support me... i opened an urgent ticket 9 days ago...
 
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S11D336B

S11D336B

George - Hoverfly
Sounds like a problem with your compass. Anything magnetic must be removed from your multirotor. This means any steel screws (aluminum or nylon should be used), ferrite beads, etc. Also, I have seen cases where some electronics put out really large magnetic fields. To reduce this, twist all of your battery and motor wires. Also, make sure all ESCs and motor/battery wires are at least 6 inches from any edge of your HoverflyGPS board.
 



M

mfabriz

Member
George, i sent you by ticket in hoverfly support 3 photos of my frame so you can tell me if some components can interfere with compass.I still have problem with PH, after 3 or 4 seconds quad move aout of 3 meters and not return to position..
Let me know, thanks
 

M

mfabriz

Member
Hi, i still have problem with my gps board and i'm waiting for a solution and support from 20 Aug...
I sent image of frame, try to move antenna, board, battery and all possible cause of noise, but in my quad not work PH and RTH.
All settings are ok, last firmware, cardinal points are ok in compass, led become blue so with max gps signal, AL mode work very very well, but PH not work, after some seconds the quad go in one direction and not stop and not return to gps point.
I think my board is broke... Hoverfly what can i do?
I work with my Quad...
 


Photronix

Photronix

Pilot
I made this video today to demonstrate where some magnetic interference comes from in our multirotors.

Keep in mind that as you fly and the current increases in your wiring harness the amount of magnetic interference and the distance the magnetic field extends beyond the wire also increases.

I now believe that the reason some people are having poor performance with PH is simply this type of current induced magnetic interference. Watch the video and take a close look at your wiring.

 
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Bartman

Bartman

Welcome to MultiRotorForums.com!!
Hi Al,

The MK community also went through the process of investigating magnetic interference and its affects on GPS performance. I'm not sure what magnetometers would have to do with GPS stability as one can live just fine without the other but what makes the MK GPS perform for me is the the use of a slider on my radio to adjust GPS gain. I make adjustments nearly every flight as the wind conditions require it. I don't see how it can be done otherwise as an aggressive setting messes everything up when it's calm and a calm setting leaves the heli wandering all over the place when the wind is blowing. Is it possible to put a sensitivity setting into the firmware that can be adjusted with a radio channel? Unless you have some sort of intelligent self-adjusting gain algorithm, I just can't see how one fixed setting would work.

In all my different (some crazy) configurations, the MK GPS has worked fine provided I had the ability to adjust gain from the radio. I'd be happy to fly a beta firmware version to give it a try if George wants to design it. THe HF PRO flies way better than the MK and the resident gimbal control is awesome (also better than MK) so let's get this GPS thing figured out once and for all. Then we can make sure it flies fine on 7 motors instead of dropping/yawing and it'll be pure world class!!

@OP, regarding GPS in general, you can't fly along and just throw the switch leaving the heli to make its way back to the positon and enter a stable hold. there has to be a bit of flying done to get the heli to settle down in the position that it is trying to hold. even once it's stable, a changing wind will move it around so some stick input can still be necessary.


Bart
 
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JZSlenker

JZSlenker

Yeah, I can blow that up.
I'm not sure what magnetometers would have to do with GPS stability as one can live just fine without the other
Click to expand...

... the key to good PH operation is the magnetometer. The actual GPS setup and signal is only part of what us needed for GPS success. My power wires are close together under aluminum booms, pretty much as far away from the mag as possible. I have no ferrous materials either.
 
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M

mfabriz

Member
I don't have ferrous materials near board (my frame is all in carbon), all cable are far and gps antenna is at 25 cm from board and frame. I raised board 5 cm over all electronics, battery and frame but nothing, my quad after some seconds of PH go far in one direction.
I don't know how can i make more...
 

S11D336B

S11D336B

George - Hoverfly
JZSlenker said:
... the key to good PH operation is the magnetometer. The actual GPS setup and signal is only part of what us needed for GPS success. My power wires are close together under aluminum booms, pretty much as far away from the mag as possible. I have no ferrous materials either.
Click to expand...

Far is a bit of a relative term. Let me give you some numbers. Keep in mind I'm assuming you've calibrated and checked your compass and that it is accurate to < 10 degrees on the ground.

On our bigger drones we have to have at least 6 inches between the ESCs / battery wires and the closest edge of the HoverflyGPS.



Sent from my DROID BIONIC using Tapatalk 2
 


M

mdjohnson

Member
I am just wondering out loud if the carbon frame is to blame. I know that the Align series of heli's, especially the 500 had issues with static buildup which affected gyro performance. Here is the thread:

http://www.helifreak.com/showthread.php?t=61205

It seemed that grounding the ESC to the frame made a world of difference as well as grounding the metal tailframe to the main frame.

Just a thought. Anybody else have a comment or is this thinking out of whack?

I have made my Y6 main frames out of bagged S glass sandwiching 1/8" lite ply. Two 4oz layers on each side on the bias. Booms are 16mm carbon from GLB. Although I do not have the HFP GPS (yet) I have no issues with wiggles or occillations of any kind. It is ROCK solid.

Cheers

MJ
 

S11D336B

S11D336B

George - Hoverfly
We use lots of carbon without a problem. It's very likely proximity to battery wires or ESCs as AL suggested. Twisting the wires and moving them away from the HoverflyGPS will help.

Here's one of mine flying nicely.
mdjohnson said:
I am just wondering out loud if the carbon frame is to blame. I know that the Align series of heli's, especially the 500 had issues with static buildup which affected gyro performance. Here is the thread:

http://www.helifreak.com/showthread.php?t=61205

It seemed that grounding the ESC to the frame made a world of difference as well as grounding the metal tailframe to the main frame.

Just a thought. Anybody else have a comment or is this thinking out of whack?

I have made my Y6 main frames out of bagged S glass sandwiching 1/8" lite ply. Two 4oz layers on each side on the bias. Booms are 16mm carbon from GLB. Although I do not have the HFP GPS (yet) I have no issues with wiggles or occillations of any kind. It is ROCK solid.

Cheers

MJ
Click to expand...
 
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