Hex screws keep stripping out...

[Ronan]

I have 18 recessed hex screws to take out to free my motors. I have tried 4 of them, 4 instantly stripped... This was with 2 different hex bits... One i was able to get out and found a white residue on the threads.

What can i do to get those hex screws out? I'm pretty sure they will strip out... Am i looking at having to burn $400-$500 for 6 new motors? That's insane...

This is the clamp, i also tried unscrewing the top 4 hex of the motor plate, they instantly stripped out like the 3 bottom motor one's:

 

[Old Man]

Threads or hex socket stripped? If the socket try putting a layer of tin foil between the hex wrench and the socket. Use the wrech to shove the tinfoil into the hex socket. The tin foil will conform to both sides, the wrench and the socket, to and provide a better fit. Alternate is use a Dremel tool with a cut off wheel to slot the top of the screw and remove with a screw driver. If it's the threads you're dealing with a thread lock compound. Use a soldering iron to heat up the screws. Yea, it will take a bit of time.

 

[min0nim]

Sounds like permanent Threadlock or Locktite has been used. Did you built it yourself? The White residue is the Threadlock. It's agood thing to use - I can always tell which bolts I forgot to apply it to because they fall off and disappear. But you want to use the medium strength stuff/temporary bond.

 

[Fat Corgi]

If there is threadlock on the screws, stick a soldering iron on each screw and heat them up. That should melt the threadlock, and make getting each screw out easier.

 

[Ronan]

I did not assemble the arms of that craft, it came 'like that', so no idea what they used... Which i hate!

I'll try the soldering iron trick, thanks!

Edit: Tried it, hex screw just instantly stripped... Not sure what kind of POS screws they used but i'm about to punch someone in the face... 10 years in building stuff and i never had one screw after the other strip out... Doesn't matter which hex bits i use from different set, even a brand new set...

I only use blue loctite, the temp stuff, works great. This white one... is crap and puts powder everywhere. Since i got some screws out i think it's not permanent... But the screw QC is out the window... Anyway to still take them out? My strip screw kit doesn't have anything that small...

 

[SamaraMedia]

You may also be able to use a set of needle nose channel-lock pliers on the screw heads, once removed I would look into a good set of metric screws from a local hardware store or industrial supply house. Some of the hardware supplied with MR's from China are just crap. Most everyone complained about the very thin topped screws provided with the TBS Disco when it was introduced, Trappy and company finally made a set of replacement screws available that were an improvement. When using Loctite thread-lock you can easily strip the heads of sub-standard hardware. Good luck.

Sorry to hear you're having trouble with the mounts, I've been considering a Tarot or XAircraft folding quad frame but wondered what the quality of the rigs were. It seems every build out there has its weak points and usually there is a solution, you seem to be pretty happy with your rigs from reading your posts. Would you recommend the Tarot?

 

[Ronan]

You may also be able to use a set of needle nose channel-lock pliers on the screw heads, once removed I would look into a good set of metric screws from a local hardware store or industrial supply house. Some of the hardware supplied with MR's from China are just crap. Most everyone complained about the very thin topped screws provided with the TBS Disco when it was introduced, Trappy and company finally made a set of replacement screws available that were an improvement. When using Loctite thread-lock you can easily strip the heads of sub-standard hardware. Good luck.

Sorry to hear you're having trouble with the mounts, I've been considering a Tarot or XAircraft folding quad frame but wondered what the quality of the rigs were. It seems every build out there has its weak points and usually there is a solution, you seem to be pretty happy with your rigs from reading your posts. Would you recommend the Tarot?

I use a $150 set of micro-bits. Those stripped the screws so i switch to the regular one's, same thing and then to another brand new $50 set, same thing... Driving me nuts.

Tarot's are great, but those screws, found on DJI products too... are just a complain pain and seem to strip super easily. Tarot and DJI must source them from the same place... they are identical and have the same hue to them too...

 

[SamaraMedia]

Do you have a good hardware store that stocks good metric screws?

 

[Old Man]

Believe it or not, McMaster-Carr sells a fairly comprehensive line of good metric hardware. I usually replace stuff that comes with Chinese hardware with stainless products from McMaster. Micro Fasteners is another outfit that sells in singles and bulk at somewhat reasonable prices.

 

[Ronan]

Believe it or not, McMaster-Carr sells a fairly comprehensive line of good metric hardware. I usually replace stuff that comes with Chinese hardware with stainless products from McMaster. Micro Fasteners is another outfit that sells in singles and bulk at somewhat reasonable prices.

Been ordering from McMaster for years. Great website.

I have 4 screws out, the rest instantly stripped. Not sure what to do now. They aren't rounded stripped but none of my bits will unscrew them...

Never seen that before... one screw once in awhile... but nearly all of them?...

 

[Old Man]

Hate to sound political but you've just run up against the Chinese business model. Someone over there found a hardware supplier that sold their wares for a couple cents less per thousand. You've found out how they were able to do it. Lower grade materials.

 

[Ronan]

Hate to sound political but you've just run up against the Chinese business model. Someone over there found a hardware supplier that sold their wares for a couple cents less per thousand. You've found out how they were able to do it. Lower grade materials.

Oh i know that... I hold a degree in business and been around the block in that area...

I'v gotten a few more screws out. Some are impossible... so i'll try with another fresh hex bit tomorrow. If those fail then i'll go to a machine shop... maybe they can do something?...

 

[jdennings]

You may want to try Torx, there's an equivalent size... Not guaranteed, but it worked for me in cases where nothing else did.
And I'd replace with stainless steel screws as soon as you get a chance, way better than stock ...

 

[jdennings]

Also, if alll else fails, self-locking pliers/vise grips gripping on the head of the screw. There are some small ones if regular size is impractical. Clamp the hell out of them, you want the teeth to grip and actually squish the head, I am talking max hand muscle. Not pretty at all, but usually gets it done, unless you break the screw head, at which point, well, it's game over short of drilling the screw out and re-threading. But if this happens it was game over to start with anyways. Heat and wd40 can help ...

 

[Quinton]

I had major problems like that on flush Carboncore Cortex screws (they were extremely soft) and the ONLY way I could get them out was to use a dremel and cut a slice in it so I could use a flat head screw driver to turn them.

 

[SamaraMedia]

Also, if alll else fails, self-locking pliers/vise grips gripping on the head of the screw. There are some small ones if regular size is impractical. Clamp the hell out of them, you want the teeth to grip and actually squish the head, I am talking max hand muscle. Not pretty at all, but usually gets it done, unless you break the screw head, at which point, well, it's game over short of drilling the screw out and re-threading. But if this happens it was game over to start with anyways. Heat and wd40 can help ...

I've also suggested the vise grip pliers, works for me 90% of the time. What about Easy Out screw extractors like this http://www.pilotshop.com/catalog/topages/extractor6.php?gclid=CPL9oZrnuMECFabm7AodpCgA_w. Home Depot, Sears and Lowes also have similar products that may work. When I worked in a machine shop years ago that's how we would get a broken screw out of the machine.

 

[jdennings]

I've had some luck with these too, although usually on stuff larger than m3. The thing with these in my experience is that it requires a very precise center pilot hole and then the perfect corresponding size drill to get maximum grip. Tricky with hex heads ...

 

[cdrking]

I have found that typical extractors don't work well at all. Go to Sears and get the one pictured below, specifically the ones on the left side of the case, (in the picture below). I have removed some VERY small screws with them. The heating will help too, but you need very localized heat.

 

[SamaraMedia]

Back when I worked in a machine shop we would make our own grinding a reverse edge on a drill bit and run the portable drill in reverse. That kit does look better than most, similar to what I did with the drill bit

 

[bensid54]

Warm up the heads of the screws so they are hot enough to melt a candle then push a candle on to the screw. The paraffin wax will wick into the threads and coat them making it easier to remove. When putting steel screws into aluminum housing apply a bit of Never Seize because steel and aluminum together make a bad combination due to corrosion and more often than not fasteners are broken or aluminum housings are damaged. Just keep an eye on the screws and check the tightness after a days flight.