Dji naza crashed need some suggestion

paktazh

Member
I just finished my Octo copter using X aircraft motor RC timer ESC and naza M and since the wire was not long enough i bought some extension wires and that wire was not good enough for use with 4s and 3s battery since it got hot and smoked and crash my copter any suggestion what wire should i buy so it can take 3s to 6s battery by the way as i mentioned I changed the motor speed from recommended to one step up in the software since the rc timer motor was not turning till i was getting the throttle to Mid point in order to make them start i did change that but i do not know if that is some thing to do with that but the wires for sure smoked
 

tahoejmfc

James Cole
I just finished my Octo copter using X aircraft motor RC timer ESC and naza M and since the wire was not long enough i bought some extension wires and that wire was not good enough for use with 4s and 3s battery since it got hot and smoked and crash my copter any suggestion what wire should i buy so it can take 3s to 6s battery by the way as i mentioned I changed the motor speed from recommended to one step up in the software since the rc timer motor was not turning till i was getting the throttle to Mid point in order to make them start i did change that but i do not know if that is some thing to do with that but the wires for sure smoked

you will need to be more specific and tell us what wires, are you extending your esc's dc supply, the motor wires, or the esc, servo wires. Typically you do not extend the esc's dc power wires without adding Caps to stop the voltage ripple that will occur with longer supply power wires. When you changed from 3s to 4s, did you change your props to a smaller size and run e- calks on the motor/battery/prop combo and make sure your not over driving your system>?
 

paktazh

Member
you will need to be more specific and tell us what wires, are you extending your esc's dc supply, the motor wires, or the esc, servo wires. Typically you do not extend the esc's dc power wires without adding Caps to stop the voltage ripple that will occur with longer supply power wires. When you changed from 3s to 4s, did you change your props to a smaller size and run e- calks on the motor/battery/prop combo and make sure your not over driving your system>?

I am extending the Motor wire to reach the ESC and do not want to touch any other wires I placed the ESC on the Fuselage
so i had to extend the motor wires from Homedepot but i guess it has low AWG that is why those new wires that came from motor got hot and smoked it did that even with 3s
 

Carapau

Tek care, lambs ont road, MRF Moderator
Just get a bunch of 12AWG silicone wire and you will be good to go. 14AWG would also work but when it comes to power, headroom is never a bad approach. That will handle anything that your system could throw at it. As for the motors not starting until you go the sticks to nearly half way, that sound like an ESC calibration issue ie the ESCs need to be calibrated to the end points on your transmitters throttle.
 

paktazh

Member
so is the 12 awg is going be good for 6s and 40 ESC and 6s battery as will ? since i got a second copter want to change that too regarding the calibration i will try that again
thanks
 
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Carapau

Tek care, lambs ont road, MRF Moderator
You need to do a bit of calculating first. What motors are you using, what can be their current draw, from that what is the total currant draw your system could pull, get wire to suit accordingly. My HL octo uses 10 AWG from the batteries to the power distro core and then I think the ESCs use 14AWG.
 

paktazh

Member
thanks my other copter is DJI WKM and i use for battery and for ESC and motor i use these
http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/...S1P_30C_USA_Warehouse_.html?strSearch=6s 8000
http://www.rctimer.com/product_848.html
http://www.rctimer.com/product_850.html
Also can u give me a link for your power distro core since i use JST silicone wires for each esc i do not want to have the same prob again i should upgrade that too
mine looks like then with out the the connector
http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/..._JST_plug_charging_harness.html?strSearch=jst
 
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tahoejmfc

James Cole
You should not be using any wires from home depot, those wires are not ment for this application. go to castle creations and buy real silicon wire ment for RC use. Sounds like your end points are not calibrated on your esc properly also. you need to find out how many amps your motors are pulling to calculate the size of wire you need for your esc supply. if your escs can pull 40 amps then refer to this chart http://www.calculator.net/voltage-drop-calculator.html

so is the 12 awg is going be good for 6s and 40 ESC and 6s battery as will ? since i got a second copter want to change that too regarding the calibration i will try that again
thanks
 

paktazh

Member
You should not be using any wires from home depot, those wires are not ment for this application. go to castle creations and buy real silicon wire ment for RC use. Sounds like your end points are not calibrated on your esc properly also. you need to find out how many amps your motors are pulling to calculate the size of wire you need for your esc supply. if your escs can pull 40 amps then refer to this chart http://www.calculator.net/voltage-drop-calculator.html


how should i find out that that how many amp my motor is pulling this is all the information i got but it does not say any thing about the AMP
Configuration 18N24P
KV- 460KV
The no load current:0.75 Amp
Battery: 2-6S


RCTimer High Performance(HP) Series brushless motor built from high quality components:
1. The magnet specification is 40 uh.
2. The bearing is NSK(Japan), it can support a long life.
3. 0.20mm laminations, maximum efficiency and minimum Eddy Current losses.
4. Ultra-flexible motor leads with high-temp 220 °silicone rubber.
5. 3.5mm bullet connectors already installed.
6. With rotor dynamic balance process,


Feature:

1. NSK bearing.
2. 0.20mm laminations.
3. Dynamic balance



and this is the ESC info

Continuous current: 40A
Instant current(10S): 60A
BEC type: N/A
BEC output: OPTO
Battery cell: Li-io Li-poly 2-6S; NiMH NiCd 5-21
Weight:29g
Dimension L*W*H: 66*26*13mm Included the Deans

Features:
1. Drive tube and high-power Mos, and Mos tube plus a separate heat sink, extreme low output resistance of the PCB(printed circuit board), super current endurance.
2. The power input uses extreme low output resistance greatly enhance the power stability, and has the protective effect on the battery.
3. Safety electrical function: when the power is turned on, regardless of the throttle stick in any position does not start themotor immediately, to avoid personal injury.
4. Separately voltage regulator IC for microprocessor, providing good anti-jamming capability.
5. Supported motor speed (Maximum): 210000 RPM (2 poles), 70000 RPM (6 poles), 35000 RPM (12 poles).
6. Using a dedicated multi-copter program tgy_debug, and the master chip with high stability crystal oscillator, making the motor control to more precise.
Product Function Illustrate:
The ESC of multi-copter brushless motor is special design for multi-copter aircraft, Throttle curve freely set and remove the brake function. To let player get a good throttle linearity. Wide voltage range can be configured to be compatible with a variety of brushless motor market.

 

You really need to do some research. Not trying to sound like jerk but your set up for future crashes.

First thing is you need to figure out what you want to do with your copter, i.e carry a specific weight, and have a specific flight time.

The motors you bought are better suited 5S and 6S batteries and larger props. RC timer's chart gives you some idea of the current draw with their props, but this may be 100% accurate on how your system will perform when under load.

JST's are not optimal for the main ESC's power to power motors of this caliber you need something with thicker gauge like 3mm bullet connectors. The current draw on these motor scan be up to 10-20amps depending on several factors such as the battery, the propeller size and pitch. These motors are designed to give higher torque at low RPM's. They are best suited for larger props. They don't mention it, but I would guess theses motors to be the most efficient with 15 inch props to get the most flight time with 6S batteries.

Once you have a system dialed in with a specific battery you really can't just reverse and put a lower Voltage battery on unless you understand the limitations.

Do things like run E-calc and confirm what props and batteries work best for your motors with the desired weight.

I would suggest researching other peoples builds and see what there results are as well and then match those builds.

Big picture the power system is not the system to take short cuts on. Its the most critical system on these.
 
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paktazh

Member
You really need to do some research. Not trying to sound like jerk but your set up for future crashes.

First thing is you need to figure out what you want to do with your copter, i.e carry a specific weight, and have a specific flight time.

The motors you bought are better suited 5S and 6S batteries and larger props. RC timer's chart gives you some idea of the current draw with their props, but this may be 100% accurate on how your system will perform when under load.

JST's are not optimal for the main ESC's power to power motors of this caliber you need something with thicker gauge like 3mm bullet connectors. The current draw on these motor scan be up to 10-20amps depending on several factors such as the battery, the propeller size and pitch. These motors are designed to give higher torque at low RPM's. They are best suited for larger props. They don't mention it, but I would guess theses motors to be the most efficient with 15 inch props to get the most flight time with 6S batteries.

Once you have a system dialed in with a specific battery you really can't just reverse and put a lower Voltage battery on unless you understand the limitations.

Do things like run E-calc and confirm what props and batteries work best for your motors with the desired weight.

I would suggest researching other peoples builds and see what there results are as well and then match those builds.

Big picture the power system is not the system to take short cuts on. Its the most critical system on these.

Thanks I got all as u said 6s +15inch Prop the only thing is that i add a n extension wire so now i opened it and seen i seen that the wire that goes from Motor to ESC is actually 18AWG so i need to add 7 inch more wire to each motor so do you think if i use the same 18 avg wire to extend it for additional 7 inch is that going to be ok or since i extend the lenght i have to use lower AVG wire for that extension thanks again
 

Pgirnus

Member
Hey,
l am going to extend my esc wires on this tbs discovery I'm starting next week( waiting for parts). Did you soder bullet connectors to the wires to extend them? Or did you just soder them and heat shrink.did you use the same gage wire as the esc or thicker? I don't want the same issue.
 

tahoejmfc

James Cole
DO NOT EXTEND THE DC SUPPLY SIDE WIRES, only extend the motor wires. http://castlecreations.com/products/cc-cap-pack.html please do some reading and you will understand why. If you extend the motor wires, use the same gauge and do not use bullet connectors to extend, solder the connection

Hey,
l am going to extend my esc wires on this tbs discovery I'm starting next week( waiting for parts). Did you soder bullet connectors to the wires to extend them? Or did you just soder them and heat shrink.did you use the same gage wire as the esc or thicker? I don't want the same issue.
 

paktazh

Member
DO NOT EXTEND THE DC SUPPLY SIDE WIRES, only extend the motor wires. http://castlecreations.com/products/cc-cap-pack.html please do some reading and you will understand why. If you extend the motor wires, use the same gauge and do not use bullet connectors to extend, solder the connection
yes I need only to extend the motor wires but can i just cut the original Motor wire since it is not long enough in middle and add and extended wire and at the other end connecting the back the wire with the bullet this way i can keep the original bullet connector too ?
 


paktazh

Member
Just get a bunch of 12AWG silicone wire and you will be good to go. 14AWG would also work but when it comes to power, headroom is never a bad approach. That will handle anything that your system could throw at it. As for the motors not starting until you go the sticks to nearly half way, that sound like an ESC calibration issue ie the ESCs need to be calibrated to the end points on your transmitters throttle.

I seen some one else in this forum suggested me to use the same AWG that the original motor wire has like i seen that the motor that I have has 16 AWG wire and the ESC that i use is 40 a as posted the link before and the rctimer recommend the same 40 A ESC for the 460 kv motor which has 16 AWG wire and according to the chart below that i have found online it is 5amp of mismatch so I am confused now which to trust use the 12 AWG 14 or 16 by the way the rctimer also recommend 5s or 6s lip with
8AWG 200 amps
10AWG 140 amps
12AWG 90 amps
14AWG 60 amps
16AWG 35 amps
18AWG 20 amps
20AWG 12 amps
22AWG 10 amps
 
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Tahoe Ed

Active Member
You are talking peak amps not average amps. Use the 16gage wire and you will be fine. What is on your motors right now. Use that, it was good enough for the manufacturer.
 

paktazh

Member
You are talking peak amps not average amps. Use the 16gage wire and you will be fine. What is on your motors right now. Use that, it was good enough for the manufacturer.

actuallyi checked the wire that comes from my 460 kv motor that goes to 40A ESC it says on it 18AWG so I am wondering if i get 14 AWG or 16AWG does it affect any thing since it will be more stronger then the 18AWG that it already has and not getting hot and the Factory recommend 6s battery for that and this is what it says in those wires
AWM STYLE 3135 200oC 18 AWG awm style 600v
 
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