Attaining a hover!

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adanac

Member
With my Disco Pro and newly-built F550 (maidened this morning!), both with Naza V2, I have trouble in keeping a hover. It seems as if I'm always in a slight ascent or descent. Can I get it so that it stays at the altitude I set it at, like I can with my Phantom? I'm using the T8J.
 

DucktileMedia

Drone Enthusiast
1. sun light on IMU affecting barometer
2. gains
3. possible loose connection from controller to motor somewhere, unlikely.
4. over propped
5. weird throttle curve settings/expo
6. possible bad pot in tx but unlikely.
 

deluge2

Member
NAZA v2 with current (or recent) firmware employs altimeter-based altitude hold only when the throttle is nearly perfectly centered, assuming DJI ESCs or properly calibrated 3rd party ESCs. You should be able to verify the range of throttle stick positions corresponding to 'centered' by looking for LED blink pattern. If all sticks are centered, repeated single blinks (color depends on mode, Atti or GPS Atti). If the throttle is too low or too high, there will be repeated paired blinks (color depends on mode). Depending on how new your Phantom is, it may have a self-centering throttle stick. If your setup exhibits altitude hold with the throttle stick at midpoint, you can add dual-rate or expo to reduce sensitivity to stick movement near the mid-point. Alternatively you can modify the throttle gimbal axis by adding a single detent at midpoint (assuming you have a Heli-style throttle setup with no detents, search google & youtube for instructions). Another option is to convert the throttle stick to be self-centering, depending upon what transmitter you're using. Futaba/Horizon will send the parts free if you ask nicely.

Steve

With my Disco Pro and newly-built F550 (maidened this morning!), both with Naza V2, I have trouble in keeping a hover. It seems as if I'm always in a slight ascent or descent. Can I get it so that it stays at the altitude I set it at, like I can with my Phantom? I'm using the T8J.
 
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adanac

Member
Many thanks for all the great detail. I can get the self-centering kit for my Futaba T8J and I'll start there. I was assuming flattening the curve at mid-point, if that's the right way to put it, might also help.
 
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chipwich

Member
The 8FGs converts without tools. Thinking of doing this, because I am using it with my P1 that doesn't have iOSD. At altitude even with FPV it can be hard to sense climb or decent. One thing that has helped is to have the left stick (throttle) beep at mid point. So with goggles, LCD, or LOS flying I can pretty much judge centerpoint by the beeps and without looking at the TX.
 

Benjamin Kenobi

Easy? You call that easy?
Many thanks for all the great detail. I can get the self-centering kit for my Futaba T8J and I'll start there. I was assuming flattening the curve at mid-point, if that's the right way to put it, might also help.

Don't do it. Keep the throttle linear. Have you not got GPS? It will keep in one place easy then.
 

deluge2

Member
Don't do what? He would flatten the midpoint of the throttle curve to give a slightly wider center range of throttle stick positions that will keep altitude steady. This slight non-linearity in throttle response achieves an easier vertical hold, a result that has nothing to do with GPS.

Steve

Don't do it. Keep the throttle linear. Have you not got GPS? It will keep in one place easy then.
 

Benjamin Kenobi

Easy? You call that easy?
I'm not a fan of flattening the throttle curve personally. I like linear response in my command inputs. It's better to find the reason why you can't keep a stable hover in your setup. I use a mode 0 setup so the throttle stick reacts like the cyclic stick and self-centers.
 

Tahoe Ed

Active Member
I agree. I want the throttle and rudder to be linear. If I am filming I will occasionally add up to 50% expo on the rudder to smooth the yaw but this is on a switch and not my normal mode of flying.
 

deluge2

Member
One last try. I'm not talking about using Expo to flatten the whole top part of the throttle curve. The option is to use a 5-point throttle curve with a flatter portion in the middle to create a larger range of throttle stick location that translates into altitude hold. It's an alternative to center sprung or neutral detent throttle stick setups to make holding altitude easier.

Steve

I agree. I want the throttle and rudder to be linear. If I am filming I will occasionally add up to 50% expo on the rudder to smooth the yaw but this is on a switch and not my normal mode of flying.
 

Benjamin Kenobi

Easy? You call that easy?
Steve mate, we both understand what you are saying. Please stop repeating it. To flatten around the middle is to make it non-linear. Ed just mentioned expo as a side note.
 

Sounds like a GPS issue to me, I have never touched the throttle curves when flying a DJI or Multirotor products.
DJI GPS may by faulty or poor GPS signal.
DJI GPS on the Naza accuracy are + or - 2.5m Horizontal & 0.8m Vertical.
Allow for windy conditions.
Did you do the GPS calibration ?
 

Paul@scc

Member
With my Disco Pro and newly-built F550 (maidened this morning!), both with Naza V2, I have trouble in keeping a hover. It seems as if I'm always in a slight ascent or descent. Can I get it so that it stays at the altitude I set it at, like I can with my Phantom? I'm using the T8J.

Do you have the ratchet feel on the throttle. ? If you do, then you need to make that smooth.
 




chipwich

Member
I`m pretty sure that it`s documented, but if you think about it, the FC shouldn`t really need trim after transmitter calibration. It applies the required thrust to maintain either the GPS position, atttitude, or rate depending on what it is sensing, the flight control input, and flight mode selected. In the case of the NAZA, at 50% throtlle, it will attempt to maintain the given altitiude in GPS mode. I`ve observed this in the 4 different NAZA equipepped MRs that I own. If it is not doing this, then IMO there are probably non standard factors in play, such as an underpowered or misconfigured aircraft, wind speeds or density altitude outside of the demonstrated flight envelope, or a battery with bad cells or low charge.

It`s pretty easy to observe with an OSD which displays verticle velocity. For me while flying FPV, having the throttle beep at the midpoint is really helpful in ballparking 50%, and and then the OSD backs up what I am hearing.
 
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adanac

Member
I am using a T8J. Is there a tutorial or instructions on how to set a curve so that it hovers where I leave it? I'm getting the self-centering stick kit.

I use my multis for shooting, so it's important to me to be able to set them at an altitude and have them stay there if possible, particularly if I'm using goggles.

I`m pretty sure that it`s documented, but if you think about it, the FC shouldn`t really need trim after transmitter calibration. It applies the required thrust to maintain either the GPS position, atttitude, or rate depending on what it is sensing, the flight control input, and flight mode selected. In the case of the NAZA, at 50% throtlle, it will attempt to maintain the given altitiude in GPS mode. I`ve observed this in the 4 different NAZA equipepped MRs that I own. If it is not doing this, then IMO there are probably non standard factors in play, such as an underpowered or misconfigured aircraft, wind speeds or density altitude outside of the demonstrated flight envelope, or a battery with bad cells or low charge.

It`s pretty easy to observe with an OSD which displays verticle velocity. For me while flying FPV, having the throttle beep at the midpoint is really helpful in ballparking 50%, and and then the OSD backs up what I am hearing.
 

chipwich

Member
I am using a T8J. Is there a tutorial or instructions on how to set a curve so that it hovers where I leave it? I'm getting the self-centering stick kit.

I use my multis for shooting, so it's important to me to be able to set them at an altitude and have them stay there if possible, particularly if I'm using goggles.

If you get the self centering kit and have your sticks calibrated in the DJI Assistant, you wont need a curve. Just release the stick. It will go to center, and the flight controller will adjust thrust to maintain hover. If it doesn't do this, then there are other issues as stated above. When I first began playing around with the Phantom, I thought that this was a newb convention, and I converted my transmitter to no spring center. But later I realized that having it hover by just releasing the throttle to hover was a pretty handy thing, especially when you are looking through goggles focusing on framing a shot. I think that CP heli pilots don't have issues with it, because they are used to having neutral pitch/throttle at mid point. But I can imagine that plank drivers might because they need apply downward pressure on the throttle all the way to touchdown and hold it there through motor disarm.
 

adanac

Member
Cool. I'll see what happens when I get the kit. I put my stick to center now and it doesn't strictly hover so I assumed a spring alone wouldn't do it.

If you get the self centering kit and have your sticks calibrated in the DJI Assistant, you wont need a curve. Just release the stick. It will go to center, and the flight controller will adjust thrust to maintain hover. If it doesn't do this, then there are other issues as stated above. When I first began playing around with the Phantom, I thought that this was a newb convention, and I converted my transmitter to no spring center. But later I realized that having it hover by just releasing the throttle to hover was a pretty handy thing, especially when you are looking through goggles focusing on framing a shot. I think that CP heli pilots don't have issues with it, because they are used to having neutral pitch/throttle at mid point. But I can imagine that plank drivers might because they need apply downward pressure on the throttle all the way to touchdown and hold it there through motor disarm.
 

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