Advice for first build?

CJ1

Member
Hi all!

I've been pondering for a while over whether to buy a rtf quadcopter, or build my own. I quite like knowing how things work though, so decided I'd rather build my own (even if this could potentially cost more/ be a steep learning curve etc...), I want it to be a reasonably cheap build as if I crash it then it's not 1)too expensive to repair, or 2)I won't feel massively attached to it.

So I decided on the HK X550 frame, which I've now received and got built up. I'm still undecided on the electrics, but from watching some videos and reading other threads i'm thinking of copying another I saw (or doing it very similar):

Controller and programmer:
1x HobbyKing Multi-Rotor Control Board V3.0 (Atmega328 PA)
1x USBasp AVR Programming Device for ATMEL proccessors

Motors, propellers, ESC and battery
3x ZIPPY Flightmax 2200mAh 3S1P 45C
5x FC 28-22 Brushless Outrunner 1200kv
5x HobbyKing Red Brick 25A ESC
1x Slow Fly Electric Prop 9047 SF (4 pc - Green)
1x Slow Fly Electric Prop 9047 SF (4 pc - Green) COUNTER
1x 1047SF Combo (1047SF & R1047SF) (3 Standard & 3 Counter Rotating Per Bag)
1x Slow Fly Electric Prop 8045 SF (4 pc - Green)
1x Slow Fly Electric Prop 8045 SF (4 pc - Green) COUNTER

Rx/Tx, battery and charger:
1x Turnigy 9X 9Ch Transmitter w/ Module & 8ch Receiver (Mode 2) (v2 Firmware)
1x ZIPPY Flightmax 2650mAh Transmitter Pack (Futaba/JR)
1x Hobbyking DC-4S Balance Charger & Cell Checker 30w 2s~4s

Others:
1x TURNIGY 3~8S Voltage Detector
1x Nylon XT60 Connectors Male/Female (5 pairs) GENUINE
2x PolyMax 3.5mm Gold Connectors 10 PAIRS (20PC)
3x Turnigy 4mm Heat Shrink Tube - RED (1mtr)
3x Turnigy 4mm Heat Shrink Tube - BLACK (1mtr)
1x Battery Strap (5pcs/bag)
3x 10CM Male to Male Servo Lead (JR) 26AWG (10pcs/set)


Does this look like a reasonable set up? I basically just want something that is fun to fly at weekends and in my spare time, along with being able to attach a camera to it (Preferably my GoPro as I already have one).

Any advice appreciated,

Calvin
 
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CJ1

Member
Just to add, i'd prefer to be able to have live video when flying but it's not essential. Also if anyone has any tips on what they wish they knew when starting out that would be great, I've read some of the topics on here though so still picking stuff up! :)
 

F

fengshuidrone

Guest
That FC is questionable. If you want the KK platform you should probably get a genuine KK. HK stuff is sort of hit or miss. The processor on that board has limited memory and can't do much beyond making the craft it's on fly. You will need to set that one up before it will fly (same with genuine KK.) If you're not scared to do a firmware setup, there are many other, better, boards to choose from that you can grow into instead of out of. Multiwii, APM, Naze32, CCD3 are all better over all boards than any KK and you can expand on them as you grow into the hobby, instead of having to upgrade to a new board because the KK can only do so much. The better boards have a USB interface doing away with the need for a FTDI interface. The charger you picked is probably not going to make you happy. At only 30 watts it will most likely take a while (read HOURS) to charge things plus it is trickle charging through the balance plug instead of balance charging through a charging port and monitoring through the balance plug like a real balance charger does. That charger will have your expensive LiPo battery toasted to an unbalanced no charge state in about 10 charge cycles. This is one thing not to skimp on. An unbalanced battery is a fire waiting to happen. I bought one of those crappy chargers when I first started out flying and it toasted 2 of my batteries for me. The motors you chose are kind of janky too. I know they are inexpensive, but this is what keeps you in the air!! The small shaft will require you to most likely get collet style prop adapters. I've seen those come loose in mid flight. You really should find a better motor but those will do OK if it's really all you can afford. They are not really optimized as quadcopter motors though. The ESCs seem good enough. You probably should not go beyond a 9" prop with a 1200Kv motor. Why not save the money from the 10" props and buy slightly better motors. Those 10"props have some tiny center holes it looks like to me, unlike the 8" and 9" ones that you linked to which look more normal. Depending on your final AUW, those 2200mah batteries will get you from 5 to 10 minutes of flight time per charge.
An FPV system can be had for under $100.00 if you are clever. A normal RTF FPV goggle setup can run from several hundreds to several thousands of dollars. I made my FPV system
for right around $100.00.
 
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CJ1

Member
Quick pic of the frame built up - I'd like to document each bit :)
 

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CJ1

Member
That FC is questionable. If you want the KK platform you should probably get a genuine KK. HK stuff is sort of hit or miss. The processor on that board has limited memory and can't do much beyond making the craft it's on fly. You will need to set that one up before it will fly (same with genuine KK.) If you're not scared to do a firmware setup, there are many other, better, boards to choose from that you can grow into instead of out of. Multiwii, APM, Naze32, CCD3 are all better over all boards than any KK and you can expand on them as you grow into the hobby, instead of having to upgrade to a new board because the KK can only do so much. The better boards have a USB interface doing away with the need for a FTDI interface. The charger you picked is probably not going to make you happy. At only 30 watts it will most likely take a while (read HOURS) to charge things plus it is trickle charging through the balance plug instead of balance charging through a charging port and monitoring through the balance plug like a real balance charger does. That charger will have your expensive LiPo battery toasted to an unbalanced no charge state in about 10 charge cycles. This is one thing not to skimp on. An unbalanced battery is a fire waiting to happen. I bought one of those crappy chargers when I first started out flying and it toasted 2 of my batteries for me. The motors you chose are kind of janky too. I know they are inexpensive, but this is what keeps you in the air!! The small shaft will require you to most likely get collet style prop adapters. I've seen those come loose in mid flight. You really should find a better motor but those will do OK if it's really all you can afford. They are not really optimized as quadcopter motors though. The ESCs seem good enough. You probably should not go beyond a 9" prop with a 1200Kv motor. Why not save the money from the 10" props and buy slightly better motors. Those 10"props have some tiny center holes it looks like to me, unlike the 8" and 9" ones that you linked to which look more normal. Depending on your final AUW, those 2200mah batteries will get you from 5 to 10 minutes of flight time per charge.
An FPV system can be had for under $100.00 if you are clever. A normal RTF FPV goggle setup can run from several hundreds to several thousands of dollars. I made my FPV system
for right around $100.00.

Hi, yes the KK was the other option I was looking at, then loading it with OpenAero, if that's a good solution? Firmware set up doesn't bother me too much, I'm a programmer by day :)

Speaking to a friend that flies RC planes - I've reconsidered the charger option and will most likely go for :
http://www.hobbyking.co.uk/hobbyking/store/__25406__Turnigy_Accucel_6_50W_6A_Balancer_Charger_w_Accessories_UK_Warehouse_.html?strSearch=turnigy accucel

I've seen videos of LiPo batteries going up in flames and that's most certainly one I'd like to avoid at all costs!

Yes I did have some concerns about the motors, especially as it doesn't mention anything about outdoor use etc in the description. I'm not sure on what to go for the motors though, so will look and post back what I think. Does everything else seem ok?

Thank you very much for the advice as well, really helpful and much appreciated :)

EDIT: Just to add, although I'm trying to keep costs down I don't mind spending a little more on the more important parts, ideally I'd like to keep to a budget of around £150-£200 ($220- $300), but I have a habit of getting carried away, so who knows what will happen!
 
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F

fengshuidrone

Guest
Those Turnigy Multistar motors are good motors. They are way more expensive though. I noticed you went down in Kv from 1200 to 980 on the first two in your new list and 935 on the last one. The ten inch props are the best choice in this Kv range. I see you went from KK to Multiwii for your FC on your latest list. While Multiwii is in my humble opinion a better FC platform, your choice of processor is the same as the one on your KK clone you replaced it with. The processor and sensors on that new board are obsolete in the multiwii world these days, so in my opinion there is no advantage of one over the other (KK vs. Multiwii.) It also uses a different firmware than the KK. The best multiwii boards have an atmega 2560 processor and they use another barometer than that board. If you have any intentions of maybe some day moving up to GPS capability (the reason I got into MW) or other flight options and more flight modes, the 328p is NOT the way to go. Multiwii FCs are notoriously hard to set up, with me personally knowing a network admin. for a major health provider who refused to buy one because of the setup nightmares he'd heard about them. I think he bought a NAZA and paid through the nose for less. I have had nothing but an extremely steep learning curve to conquer, and I seem to have conquered it well. My Multiwii fleet of three all fly really well. If you have any qualms about working with Arduino, then buy a KK or Naza.
 

CJ1

Member
Those Turnigy Multistar motors are good motors. They are way more expensive though. I noticed you went down in Kv from 1200 to 980 on the first two in your new list and 935 on the last one. The ten inch props are the best choice in this Kv range. I see you went from KK to Multiwii for your FC on your latest list. While Multiwii is in my humble opinion a better FC platform, your choice of processor is the same as the one on your KK clone you replaced it with. The processor and sensors on that new board are obsolete in the multiwii world these days, so in my opinion there is no advantage of one over the other (KK vs. Multiwii.) It also uses a different firmware than the KK. The best multiwii boards have an atmega 2560 processor and they use another barometer than that board. If you have any intentions of maybe some day moving up to GPS capability (the reason I got into MW) or other flight options and more flight modes, the 328p is NOT the way to go. Multiwii FCs are notoriously hard to set up, with me personally knowing a network admin. for a major health provider who refused to buy one because of the setup nightmares he'd heard about them. I think he bought a NAZA and paid through the nose for less. I have had nothing but an extremely steep learning curve to conquer, and I seem to have conquered it well. My Multiwii fleet of three all fly really well. If you have any qualms about working with Arduino, then buy a KK or Naza.

Hi, yes quite expensive especially the "elite" motors.. Which is making me choose between 2213-980Kv and MT2213-935KV... I'm leaning more towards MT2213-935KV again due to cost, and the lower KV would benefit running the longer props wouldn't it?

Thanks again for the advice on the controller; I clearly need to research this area more.. I'm even thinking maybe for the time being something that is easy to set up would be the best bit, then I can upgrade it later down the line..
 

F

fengshuidrone

Guest
Easy set up is a strong point on REAL KK boards. They come with an LCD and four buttons for setup. They are a good board to learn to build with from what I hear, and a fair board performance wise. I don't think they are too bad of a choice if you are only testing the waters. If it turns out you want more down the road after you learn to fly you can always replace just the FC with a board with better flight characteristics and mode options using the existing frame and other parts. Also, yes, lower Kv means larger props. Don't go too low in Kv using a 3s battery.
 



Hideto

New Member
how to fly your aerial drone safely and responsibly, plus get connected to other drone enthusiasts and flying clubs. With the right resources, you'll not only have more fun, you'll also be able to protect your investment.
 

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