I tried setting up Wookong m three times and crashed three times I've read the manual and watched pitchbitch video.it wants to flips back with out leaving the ground I've seen people setting there radio up in aero and heli mode I've tried both. My settings were left at zero for the imu it's near perfect cg my gps compass setting z axis -12/x axis +2/y axis left at zero help.
3 crashes in one day
- Thread starter Kentjjl
- Start date
I am assuming prop direction has been checked.
try taking off in ATT mode...then switch to GPS. ( helped me)
I did notice a difference by re-calibrating the compass. I am not sure if this solved my flip problem for gps take off
I also found when I started I was way too careful on take off and experienced the same flip thing.( with my first quad and my new hex wanted to do the same thing)
I made sure I was balanced , and took off more aggressively.
Also set my turn off to immediate not intelligent ( saves props till ya get the hang of it.)
Try the ATT take off and be more aggressive with the throttle..
try taking off in ATT mode...then switch to GPS. ( helped me)
I did notice a difference by re-calibrating the compass. I am not sure if this solved my flip problem for gps take off
I also found when I started I was way too careful on take off and experienced the same flip thing.( with my first quad and my new hex wanted to do the same thing)
I made sure I was balanced , and took off more aggressively.
Also set my turn off to immediate not intelligent ( saves props till ya get the hang of it.)
Try the ATT take off and be more aggressive with the throttle..
did you calibrate your unit.
I am not expert but I will tell you what I think I know.
The first thing I would do even if you did I would re-calibrate it, the instructions are in the manual but to do so, flick you flight mode switch up and down 6-10 quickly, when you get done with that a blue light should appear in the LED indicator, holding the craft lever, spin it clockwise about 360+ degrees until the light changes color - Green.
Next hold the craft vertical and do the same until the green light changes to white. At that time the unit will be calibrated and put it back down normally. Give it about 5 sec, I usually have been disconnecting the battery at this time, however in the past there have been times where I have not. It seems to work the same either way.
Two other things I would check is to make sure you props are spinning in the proper direction, as in the diagram shows in the manual and software assistant. and make sure when you go to take off the wk-m is in att or gps mode and you should be able to determine this by the LED cycle. It first does your GPS flash (1, 2, or 3 quick red flashes) followed by one of three results. no light which indicates your are in manual mode, amber light telling you are in att mode, or a blueish white light letting you know you are in GPS mode.
Just for fun before powering the motors I would switch to manual, see the chance in the light, then put into att or gps, just confirming mentally that you are in the right mode.
I also have had something like what you explained happened to me before, but since I now go through a small check of everything before powering motors, my issues have seemed to calm down some.
The other thing I would say also is, stay heavy on your sticks during take off and landing. Like a real helicopter when the craft starts getting light and the littlest input can make a huge difference. Every time during takeoff and landing when I am hitting that light zone, I will sit on the sticks waiting to make very little compensation to help the craft until it gets its bearings to say.
The zone between being light enough to move tilt the craft and liftoff is very critical and something where I believe a person controlling the craft needs to be on their toes. Once the craft is off the ground then you can start adding more power and being more aggressive.
I know you said you were doing what the setup manual was telling you, I would go back into the software assistant and make sure in the flight mode area that when you put the flight mode switch on you transmitter into the proper mode that in the assistant is seeing it and your mode slider in the flight zone indicator is turning blue. You can have the slider move to the proper zone but if that zones indicator in the slider reference does not turn blue then you are not properly locked in.
If you controller has mixes, or you programmed it for some, GET RID OF THEM.
Best of luck Jack
I am not expert but I will tell you what I think I know.
The first thing I would do even if you did I would re-calibrate it, the instructions are in the manual but to do so, flick you flight mode switch up and down 6-10 quickly, when you get done with that a blue light should appear in the LED indicator, holding the craft lever, spin it clockwise about 360+ degrees until the light changes color - Green.
Next hold the craft vertical and do the same until the green light changes to white. At that time the unit will be calibrated and put it back down normally. Give it about 5 sec, I usually have been disconnecting the battery at this time, however in the past there have been times where I have not. It seems to work the same either way.
Two other things I would check is to make sure you props are spinning in the proper direction, as in the diagram shows in the manual and software assistant. and make sure when you go to take off the wk-m is in att or gps mode and you should be able to determine this by the LED cycle. It first does your GPS flash (1, 2, or 3 quick red flashes) followed by one of three results. no light which indicates your are in manual mode, amber light telling you are in att mode, or a blueish white light letting you know you are in GPS mode.
Just for fun before powering the motors I would switch to manual, see the chance in the light, then put into att or gps, just confirming mentally that you are in the right mode.
I also have had something like what you explained happened to me before, but since I now go through a small check of everything before powering motors, my issues have seemed to calm down some.
The other thing I would say also is, stay heavy on your sticks during take off and landing. Like a real helicopter when the craft starts getting light and the littlest input can make a huge difference. Every time during takeoff and landing when I am hitting that light zone, I will sit on the sticks waiting to make very little compensation to help the craft until it gets its bearings to say.
The zone between being light enough to move tilt the craft and liftoff is very critical and something where I believe a person controlling the craft needs to be on their toes. Once the craft is off the ground then you can start adding more power and being more aggressive.
I know you said you were doing what the setup manual was telling you, I would go back into the software assistant and make sure in the flight mode area that when you put the flight mode switch on you transmitter into the proper mode that in the assistant is seeing it and your mode slider in the flight zone indicator is turning blue. You can have the slider move to the proper zone but if that zones indicator in the slider reference does not turn blue then you are not properly locked in.
If you controller has mixes, or you programmed it for some, GET RID OF THEM.
Best of luck Jack
vip is right also, when you are in that time when the craft is light enough to move, between that and takeoff, its very crucial time, it is not good to sit in that zone, make sure you keep applying throttle at a decent rate until you are up, and also sit on the stick to ever so slightly counter the direction you will see the copter starting to go.
This is spot on advice for take off. My first hover attempt resulted in a tip over. You do have to be aggressive on the throttle and let the WKM stabilize the craft in the air. Definitely check that your props/motors are spinning in the right direction. With your IMU and GPS mounted in the right direction and calibration performed you should have no problems. I had intelligent cut off set to on during my first hover attempt. My craft tipped onto one of the motors, but luckily no damage occurred. side note: I keep intelligent cut off on.
If it tipped without you giving much pitch or roll input then I bet 1 or some of the motors or props are backwards. If you attempted to hover and it got light but stayed fairly stable then you corrected for pitch or roll because it was going a little that way and then it went in the same direction even more then you probably have the IMU opposite of how you positioned it in the Assistant Software.
And always go quickly from the ground to hover, after it's hovered it will be WAY easier to control.
You can hold it in your hand out in from or above you and do the CSC with the other hand, then give it some throttle and then you'll be able to tell if everything is operating the correct way.
And always go quickly from the ground to hover, after it's hovered it will be WAY easier to control.
You can hold it in your hand out in from or above you and do the CSC with the other hand, then give it some throttle and then you'll be able to tell if everything is operating the correct way.
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janoots2
Member
I kept flipping over too on my first hover attempts and blew through about 8 Graupners. I thought it would just go straight up, not the case, you still need to know how to control the takeoff. Then I bucked up, got Aerosim and trained for a week...flying "like a pro" now. I would highly recommend if you haven't started there.
I suggest changing out the esc's ..
I just had that issue on a new build with a DJI 30 amp esc's last night
I had extra , changed the esc out and all is good.
I'm punting here. but worth a try. You can swap your esc's between two motors and see if the problem
exists on different motors. That would let you know about the esc's..
I just had that issue on a new build with a DJI 30 amp esc's last night
I had extra , changed the esc out and all is good.
I'm punting here. but worth a try. You can swap your esc's between two motors and see if the problem
exists on different motors. That would let you know about the esc's..
